Just bought a 2016 IS 200t.. Reliable?
05-14-19, 01:38 PM
#31
Lexus Test Driver
and (and) that's assuming the upgraded LCA bushing eliminates the wear problem. it doesn't. it just buys you more time.
the better reason for the upgrade is for performance reasoning. that would be my sole interest.
the better reason for the upgrade is for performance reasoning. that would be my sole interest.
05-14-19, 02:48 PM
#32
Lexus Test Driver
Originally Posted by E46CT
and (and) that's assuming the upgraded LCA bushing eliminates the wear problem. it doesn't. it just buys you more time.
the better reason for the upgrade is for performance reasoning. that would be my sole interest.
the better reason for the upgrade is for performance reasoning. that would be my sole interest.
05-14-19, 02:48 PM
#33
Driver
Thread Starter
Maybe I will have better luck with my tires... I really just drive normal, and easy on the car. 30mph most days just to the store, or to pick up my son. On the weekends to an event etc.. Prob. a "grandma" driver LOL. I am easy on the brakes too. So, maybe I will hold off on any changes and see how the current tires that are on there now hold up? NEXEN tires or something like that (never heard of them) they look low profile 18".
I see so many Lexus IS's around my town (Miami) I cant believe that everyone is changing tires every year almost. Granted if your really driving the car hard, and taking turns fast and having the sort of fun that the IS is kinda intended for.. than sure.
Im also trying to sell myself that this car is going to work for me LOL. Now with the carbon talk above, it looks like some sport driving is on the menu to keep things well running. Again, hard to imagine.. SO many NX 200ts around town, all daily driven my moms who likely use regular gas and sit in traffic all day. So hopefully the carbon thing is not a real problem at all and Lexus has designed the 200t to last a long long time without crazy repair.
I see so many Lexus IS's around my town (Miami) I cant believe that everyone is changing tires every year almost. Granted if your really driving the car hard, and taking turns fast and having the sort of fun that the IS is kinda intended for.. than sure.
Im also trying to sell myself that this car is going to work for me LOL. Now with the carbon talk above, it looks like some sport driving is on the menu to keep things well running. Again, hard to imagine.. SO many NX 200ts around town, all daily driven my moms who likely use regular gas and sit in traffic all day. So hopefully the carbon thing is not a real problem at all and Lexus has designed the 200t to last a long long time without crazy repair.
05-14-19, 02:57 PM
#34
Lexus Test Driver
Even grandma cars w/ port injection can develop valve deposits which cause valve seat problems. it's just something to consider. ICE engines are far from perfect. realities for any engine, really. if you want to avoid it all, electric is the way to go =)
As far as bushings, stiffer= more feel/directness=performance. in the context of the upgraded Lexus F bushing, that's the point of it.
As far as bushings, stiffer= more feel/directness=performance. in the context of the upgraded Lexus F bushing, that's the point of it.
05-14-19, 03:17 PM
#35
Driver
Thread Starter
Let me ask you something..
If you had to pick based on long run use, in terms of what would be best to own longer term (say 7 years from right now)
1. 2015 Lexus RX 350 with 38K on it (I have owned it since new) and done all the oil service etc.
or..
2. The car I just got.. the 2016 IS 200t with 23K on it.. it has a CPO for 2 years, and has new tires as a starting point. The car is in what appears to be better condition than my RX both inside and out.
I can keep one, and sell the other. But whatever I do I need to stick with it. :-)
If you had to pick based on long run use, in terms of what would be best to own longer term (say 7 years from right now)
1. 2015 Lexus RX 350 with 38K on it (I have owned it since new) and done all the oil service etc.
or..
2. The car I just got.. the 2016 IS 200t with 23K on it.. it has a CPO for 2 years, and has new tires as a starting point. The car is in what appears to be better condition than my RX both inside and out.
I can keep one, and sell the other. But whatever I do I need to stick with it. :-)
05-14-19, 04:00 PM
#36
Lexus Test Driver
I've always liked the RX. That gen is nice. And you have the last year of that gen. The IS is nice, but cramped inside. The old man in me would pick the RX for its comfort, space, and tried and true powerplant.
The IS should be reliable, but its powertrain is a bit new and unknown. The rest of the IS is good overall, at this point (emphasis this point) but can be a bit wonky too (see my 3IS long term reliability thread) So for long term use, my nod would go for the RX.
Post some pics of both cars.
The IS should be reliable, but its powertrain is a bit new and unknown. The rest of the IS is good overall, at this point (emphasis this point) but can be a bit wonky too (see my 3IS long term reliability thread) So for long term use, my nod would go for the RX.
Post some pics of both cars.
05-14-19, 04:30 PM
#39
Driver
Thread Starter
Yeah, I know.. the RX350 is likely the safer bet too. But man.. I have been driving it for 5 years already, and wanted a change. So, I got this IS. Going to give up the RX now (sell). I was all happy until I learned that this IS is not exactly as reliable and easy to maintain as I thought :-/ But, it sure is in super nice condition. Looks brand new inside and out.
05-14-19, 05:42 PM
#40
Driver
Thread Starter
Funny.. I was just looking at this site and reading about the engines. It appears that the engine in my RX350 also has that same two process injection system...
The engine kept the architecture and received the last Toyota’s advanced technologies in the engine development. The 2GR-FKS can switch from Otto cycle to an Atkinson cycle operation for a better fuel economy. That is achieved by using the VVT-iW on the intake camshafts (Variable Valve Timing - Intelligent Wide). The engine still uses a variable exhaust valve timing (VVT-i). The engine was also equipped with the coil-on-plug ignition system DIS, ETCS-I, and ACIS. Like the 2GR-FSE, the 2GR-FKS has a combined direct injection and port fuel injection (Toyota’s D-4S). The significant changes are observed in the exhaust system. Now, the exhaust manifolds are integrated into the cylinder heads and the EGR circuit is cooled.
So, in a sense it would be exactly just as prone to the carbon as the 200t?
I saw your post on the 3IS reliability.. and I did not like the thread on the carbon that you linked. Now I see where you got the pics above. But, to be fair I also could have the same issues with my RX350 AND it already has more miles on it with no CPO. (another vote to keep the 2016 IS and rid off the RX)
I also read this about the 350 engine in general from that link above..
If the 2GR engine has a damaged cylinder wall surface, the entire cylinder block has to be replaced. The thin walls of the cylinder liners make the engine impossible to bore the block. The liners itself are cast into the aluminum engine block.
The 2GR-FSE engine features the overheating of the fifth cylinder. That is caused by the design flaw. The problem leads to high oil consumption at first and scratches appearance on cylinder wall later. If you read above, now you know the expensive end of that story.
The all GR family has a common problem with unreliable water pump and ignition coils. In some cases, they don’t last longer than 30-50k miles, and that is very annoying. The 2GR-FE has longevity about 200,000 miles (300,000 km). The 2GR-FSE and 2GR-FKS engines are more technologically advanced, powerful, and fuel efficient but less reliable.
.
So, it's not all roses with the 350 engine either I guess... ?
The 2GR-FSE Engine
The 2GR-FSE engine is used mostly in Lexus and Japanese domestic vehicles. That version features Toyota's D-4S twin injection system (direct and port fuel injection). The combination of the direct injection and conventional port injection requires separate low- and high-pressure fuel systems. The engine also got new cylinder heads with high-pressure direct fuel injectors positioned at the outer side of the intake valves. The pistons have redesigned shape and are made of a hypereutectic aluminum alloy to withstand high loads. Due to the ability to provide better cooling of air-fuel mixture by direct fuel injection into the combustion chamber, the compression ratio was increased up to 11.8:1. Like 2GR-FE, the engine is equipped with Toyota’s ETCS-I, ACIS, and DIS systems.The 2GR-FKS Engine
The 2GR-FKS is the newest 3.5-liter V6 engine among all 2GR versions. It was first introduced in 2015 as the replacement for the 2GR-FSE in Lexus cars. But a few years later, this engine became a standard V6 engine for the Toyota Camry and Highlander. The new engine is nothing but the evolution of the 2GR-FSE.The engine kept the architecture and received the last Toyota’s advanced technologies in the engine development. The 2GR-FKS can switch from Otto cycle to an Atkinson cycle operation for a better fuel economy. That is achieved by using the VVT-iW on the intake camshafts (Variable Valve Timing - Intelligent Wide). The engine still uses a variable exhaust valve timing (VVT-i). The engine was also equipped with the coil-on-plug ignition system DIS, ETCS-I, and ACIS. Like the 2GR-FSE, the 2GR-FKS has a combined direct injection and port fuel injection (Toyota’s D-4S). The significant changes are observed in the exhaust system. Now, the exhaust manifolds are integrated into the cylinder heads and the EGR circuit is cooled.
I saw your post on the 3IS reliability.. and I did not like the thread on the carbon that you linked. Now I see where you got the pics above. But, to be fair I also could have the same issues with my RX350 AND it already has more miles on it with no CPO. (another vote to keep the 2016 IS and rid off the RX)
I also read this about the 350 engine in general from that link above..
2GR-FE/FSE/FKS Engine Problems and Reliability
Toyota conducted a recall campaign for cars with 2GR-FE and 2GR-FSE produced until 2010. The reason for that became a problem with an oil leak from the rubber hose which feeds the VVT-i lubrication system. The manufacturer replaced that rubber part by a metal pipe.If the 2GR engine has a damaged cylinder wall surface, the entire cylinder block has to be replaced. The thin walls of the cylinder liners make the engine impossible to bore the block. The liners itself are cast into the aluminum engine block.
The 2GR-FSE engine features the overheating of the fifth cylinder. That is caused by the design flaw. The problem leads to high oil consumption at first and scratches appearance on cylinder wall later. If you read above, now you know the expensive end of that story.
The all GR family has a common problem with unreliable water pump and ignition coils. In some cases, they don’t last longer than 30-50k miles, and that is very annoying. The 2GR-FE has longevity about 200,000 miles (300,000 km). The 2GR-FSE and 2GR-FKS engines are more technologically advanced, powerful, and fuel efficient but less reliable.
So, it's not all roses with the 350 engine either I guess... ?
05-14-19, 07:15 PM
#41
Don’t be too worried about the regulator valve. It’s a $50 part and you can just relocate it and install it yourself super easy.
As far as tires go, a lot of people complain about the front tires wearing quickly and unevenly. I personally haven’t had that problem thankfully. I put on aftermarket wheels at 12k miles and my stock fronts were still in good shape. I have on max summer tires now and I’ve had the same front tires for over 2 seasons and 20k+ miles and they’re still good. I did have the shop set the toe to 0 during my alignment so that could be it.
As far as tires go, a lot of people complain about the front tires wearing quickly and unevenly. I personally haven’t had that problem thankfully. I put on aftermarket wheels at 12k miles and my stock fronts were still in good shape. I have on max summer tires now and I’ve had the same front tires for over 2 seasons and 20k+ miles and they’re still good. I did have the shop set the toe to 0 during my alignment so that could be it.
05-15-19, 07:11 AM
#42
Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks so much. At this point I am now worried about the carbon build up, only because most of my driving is short in town trips and at low speeds.
I also have no idea what the previous owner did.. based on the nice condition of the car and low miles.. I assume they used it like me. soft. daily. That thread that was linked above from the NX 200t with 60K on it.. looks pretty bad.. and I really need to get much more mileage out of this car. Car has 23K on it now, I have owned it for a week. I will only use the best gas (mobil or shell, chevron etc) premium grade, and use Mobil 1 synthetic oil every 5K. At best two or three times a month I can horse it on the high way.. but around town.. its a grandma car most day of the week.
Am I nuts to expect this to last 7 years / 100k without any crazy motor issues / costs?
I also have no idea what the previous owner did.. based on the nice condition of the car and low miles.. I assume they used it like me. soft. daily. That thread that was linked above from the NX 200t with 60K on it.. looks pretty bad.. and I really need to get much more mileage out of this car. Car has 23K on it now, I have owned it for a week. I will only use the best gas (mobil or shell, chevron etc) premium grade, and use Mobil 1 synthetic oil every 5K. At best two or three times a month I can horse it on the high way.. but around town.. its a grandma car most day of the week.
Am I nuts to expect this to last 7 years / 100k without any crazy motor issues / costs?
05-15-19, 09:38 AM
#43
Lead Lap
Thanks so much for the reply!
I just took a look at the thread on that valve regulator issue on the 200t. Wow, a lot of people have that issue and I see many people have gone through several replacement parts for the same problem.
That's not a good sign. Just reading that alone makes me second guess the 200t engine for long term use. Man.. that sucks! Is there an updated thread that has a happy ending where the part has been revised and it's something that can actually be fixed?
EDIT - My car is 2016 (made Nov. 2015 and was first sold 6/2016) and has 23K on it. So far it seems to be okay. When I accel I dont feel any hesitation. But, all the posts of people having the issue over and over again is a big concern?
I just took a look at the thread on that valve regulator issue on the 200t. Wow, a lot of people have that issue and I see many people have gone through several replacement parts for the same problem.
That's not a good sign. Just reading that alone makes me second guess the 200t engine for long term use. Man.. that sucks! Is there an updated thread that has a happy ending where the part has been revised and it's something that can actually be fixed?
EDIT - My car is 2016 (made Nov. 2015 and was first sold 6/2016) and has 23K on it. So far it seems to be okay. When I accel I dont feel any hesitation. But, all the posts of people having the issue over and over again is a big concern?
05-15-19, 11:14 AM
#44
I am personally coming up on my 2 year mark with a 2016 200t IS and I have had a couple of issues. I had a strange startup/misfire issue but after replacing fuel pumps and the injectors the issue was resolved. One morning I got a strange check engine light and it turned out to be a sensor that was also replaced under warranty. I had the vacuum regulator part changed around 12k miles also. In terms of tire wear, Ive been using continental dws 06 and Im close to getting about 25K out of a set of 4 and thats driving like a manic most of the time. I do plan on keeping the car for 6 years/ 100k miles since I have a bumper to bumper warranty (Doug Demuro voice) until then.
I know this is a reliability thread but I have the BMS piggy back tuner installed and i recommend it! Can you feel the added power and with the revised vacuum part, i haven't had issues for over 20K miles (All of the issues described happened before I installed the BMS tuner).The dealer does not detected it and i can unplug it in and remove it when i need to service the car!
Enjoy the Car!
I know this is a reliability thread but I have the BMS piggy back tuner installed and i recommend it! Can you feel the added power and with the revised vacuum part, i haven't had issues for over 20K miles (All of the issues described happened before I installed the BMS tuner).The dealer does not detected it and i can unplug it in and remove it when i need to service the car!
Enjoy the Car!
05-15-19, 12:27 PM
#45
Driver
Thread Starter
In terms of tire wear, Ive been using continental dws 06 and Im close to getting about 25K out of a set of 4 and thats driving like a manic most of the time.
I do plan on keeping the car for 6 years/ 100k miles since I have a bumper to bumper warranty (Doug Demuro voice) until then.
What do you think about carbon build up in this engine?