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I have a 2018 IS 350 fsport AWD. Put some new Michelin PS4's on in April, came out to just under 800 w/ everything mounted & balanced.
My question is I do alot of highway driving, 80/20, although I've switched out the OEM bushings to RCF Bushings, will this completely mitigate the premature tire wear? How many miles should I be expecting on this set? All four tires are inflated to 37psi . Im averaging about 20/21 MPG but I do tend to drive aggressive at times. On my original set, I saw the steel band on my rears, but that was at 30k. Also, anyone else with this tire feel as if its noisy? Kinda annoying but once I throw on some music its barely noticeable.
No, it will not completely mitigate the wear, but it is commonly accepted that it will offset the wear based on the theory of what's causing the wear. If I had to guess, I would say most high-performance tires on the AWD cars will probably last 20,000-25,000 on the fronts. There are lots of factors contributing to how they wear, so it's hard to say.
You're not the first to say the Michelin PS4 is noisy.
I have 2018 IS 300 F-Sport AWD. I got all 4 new tires from Discount Tire at 12k miles. These tires are Michelin PILOT SPORT A/S 3 PLUS. I am currently at 27k miles. We did normal driving here in San Antonio weather and no crazy driving. I am told that I need to replace these tires soon due to wear.
What mods can be done to increase life of tires and inner wear on front?
Discount Tire suggested Falken Pro G5 Sport A/S, Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 4 or Yoko.
I am looking for less noise better usage from these tires.
What do you recommend?
Bobby - If you read this thread, you will see what is the mod that can be done to reduce the inner tire wear. With respect to the tires, I have read the Michelins can be a bit on the noisy/loud side - I read some have had good look with some Continentals
While I would normally wait a bit longer to check tire wear, after a long drive this weekend I noticed that the tires picked up dirt/gravel from the roads and made it pretty clear where the tire contacted the road. in the RWD IS with two passengers and trunk fully loaded with food and picnic/BBQ supplies, had the cold PSI set to 40 fronts and 38 rears. For the front I saw even dirt/gravel along the tire from shoulder to shoulder after getting back. The rear tires had what I would best describe as even wear up to the width of the front tires, with no dirt/gravel on the shoulders.
Also noticed that the car no longer understeers, and actually slightly oversteers going around the neighborhood after a rain.
Will continue to hold front PSI at 40 and drop rear to PSI 37.
Driving in normal mode, average MPG 26.5 as per infotainment screen.
While I would normally wait a bit longer to check tire wear, after a long drive this weekend I noticed that the tires picked up dirt/gravel from the roads and made it pretty clear where the tire contacted the road. in the RWD IS with two passengers and trunk fully loaded with food and picnic/BBQ supplies, had the cold PSI set to 40 fronts and 38 rears. For the front I saw even dirt/gravel along the tire from shoulder to shoulder after getting back. The rear tires had what I would best describe as even wear up to the width of the front tires, with no dirt/gravel on the shoulders.
Also noticed that the car no longer understeers, and actually slightly oversteers going around the neighborhood after a rain.
Will continue to hold front PSI at 40 and drop rear to PSI 37.
Driving in normal mode, average MPG 26.5 as per infotainment screen.
This is also with new RCF bushings installed, correct? Curious once you have more mileage if you feel that helped any uneven tire wear.
^^ I don't have enough mileage on mine but I did have my RCF bushings installed yesterday - I will be curious how the front inner tire wear will be with these new bushings installed but for the minimal cost, it was worth a shot. I paid about 100$ (Canadian) per bushings and paid 1h of labor at the dealer (85$/h) to have them installed. I didn't drive long enough with them to get a good sense of any noticeable difference in ride but I can say it didn't make the ride more harsh or deteriorate the handling. I'll report back with time
Do you thinks there is a different on the inner wear between symertic, asymetric or directionnal tire?
I have always understood that the problem with inner wear has more to do with the way the car puts excess pressure on the inner part of the tire during braking and cornering. So, I am 99% sure this problem will exist independently of the tire installed.
Do you thinks there is a different on the inner wear between symertic, asymetric or directionnal tire?
Totally agree with arentz07. Has absolutely nothing to do with tire - it’s the excessive toe that occurs during compression of the front suspension. The stock bushings act like a spring and deflect too much, especially during fast deceleration. Look at those videos on Figs and RR-Racing and you’ll see what’s actually happening with the suspension - after watching those, it should be crystal clear that the tires aren’t the culprit.
Maybe a jump over a post, but I read that the best is to change the LCA bushing by the RCF version, but is just for the front wheels what are you doing for the rear wheels?
Maybe a jump over a post, but I read that the best is to change the LCA bushing by the RCF version, but is just for the front wheels what are you doing for the rear wheels?
Sorry if there is the answer in this thread.
No worries, but yes, the solution would be to change the front LCA bushings.
Maybe a jump over a post, but I read that the best is to change the LCA bushing by the RCF version, but is just for the front wheels what are you doing for the rear wheels?
Sorry if there is the answer in this thread.
One main problem with both ends of the IS or any car for that matter, is to make sure that all the suspension is working properly. That includes worn struts, links, and bushings. Make sure you take care of that stuff too. Changing the front LCA bushings aren’t gonna help the tire wear if you have old/blown struts… The other key is alignment for both ends.
Alignment is key for the rear unless you’re lowered on springs or coilovers. If you’re super low, you may need to replace the #1 and/or #2 links with aftermarket adjustable links to get your alignment back within spec.
For the front, it really depends on how you drive and what you’re comfortable with. Three real options to help with the front inner tire wear.
1. The RCF bushings are stiffer than the stock IS front LCA bushing, but doesn’t completely stop the excessive toe, which causes the front inner tire wear. They cost less but they’ll also wear out faster than the Figs or RR-Racing versions. There is also another step of actually loading the suspension before torquing them down…not a big deal but some people forget or don’t realize they need this step. The RCF bushings will also add a slight bit of NVH but the ride remains pretty comfortable.
2. The Figs 80 and 90 durometer (stiffness) bushings will stop the front inner tire wear but will add more NVH and harshness - road feel is significantly better during hard braking - the floaty/wandering feeling is much, much better. They need to be greased where the RCF bushings don’t….again, not a big deal, just be aware.
3. The RR-Racing USRS bushings are 95 durometer - even stiffer than the Figs. Due to their design, they eliminate all the unwanted suspension movement during cornering and braking that lead to excessive caster, camber, and toe. They also add a little positive static caster back to suspension - which adds camber and feel during cornering. They add significantly more NVH and harshness to the ride but are a must for racing. Some people also complain about them squeaking during cold weather. They also need to be greased.
IMO, I don’t think you could go wrong with any of the three options I listed. It’s about what you’re looking for and how you drive because there are tradeoffs for all of them. I have the 90 durometer Figs on my car - front inner tire wear is gone completely. I talked with owners and driven cars with both the RCF and RR-Racing versions installed and feel like the Figs are a good compromise for how I drive.
. That includes worn struts, links, and bushings. Make sure you take care of that stuff too. Changing the front LCA bushings aren’t gonna help the tire wear if you have old/blown struts… The other key is alignment for both ends.
Alignment is key for the rear unless you’re lowered on springs or coilovers. If you’re super low, you may need to replace the #1 and/or #2 links with aftermarket adjustable links to get your alignment back within spec.
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In France we have to check our car by a compagny every two years (it's a Tehnical Control), exept for a new car it's after 4 yeras, to check if everythings is ok even for the suspension and other part of the front of the train. We can hope that is ok when the "Technical Control" is written OK.
My Technical Control:
Example of bad Technical Control:
Anyway, I m a slow driver mostly in turn, and sometimes I love to have a "big" acceleration but it's a 300H with only 160 KW of power
I will think about it, I think the first solution with RCF bushling is better in this case.
I share the modification when that will be done.
Last edited by Soldat79; 07-17-21 at 10:39 PM.
Reason: a forget
06-27-21, 07:23 PM
