All about Lexus IS premature inner tire wear
07-19-21, 12:23 PM
#151
I can't order in this website, because they can't send it to France: https://www.discountpartsmonster.com...ket-4807524010
Do you know this website down, and the piece is it good :
FirstSecond
Or do you know a webside that sent the piece in another country than america?
-------------------------------------------
New: Ordered here: https://www.megazip.net/
Do you know this website down, and the piece is it good :
FirstSecond
Or do you know a webside that sent the piece in another country than america?
-------------------------------------------
New: Ordered here: https://www.megazip.net/
Last edited by Soldat79; 07-19-21 at 10:35 PM. Reason: Error
07-19-21, 11:05 PM
#152
Like that :
I took this picture in this forum, it's not mine
Last edited by Soldat79; 07-19-21 at 11:34 PM.
07-20-21, 07:38 AM
#153
Driver School Candidate
Directional vs nondirectional allows flipping left and right wheels with each other. Symmetric vs asymmetric allows flipping the same tire inside to outside - via removing the tire and putting it back on the other way.
Granted, it's better to have even wear in the first place, as asymmetric and directional tires offer better handling and NVH in most cases
07-20-21, 09:55 AM
#154
Ok, I totaly get it, thanks.
To a France lexus forum, someone said the best it's to use the tire OEM ??
What do you think about ExtraLoad tire, maybe they are more resistant to wearing.
To a France lexus forum, someone said the best it's to use the tire OEM ??
What do you think about ExtraLoad tire, maybe they are more resistant to wearing.
07-20-21, 10:06 AM
#155
Lead Lap
Soldat - Comme les gens ont dit, le plus gros facteur de l'usure prematurer des pneu ne sont pas les pneus comme tels mais les "bushing" qui ne sont pas assez rigide et qui donne trop de jeux durant l'application des freins comme exemple
** Translation for anglophones - As others have stated before, the biggest factor in teh premature wear is not the tire itself but rather, bushings that are too soft and allow too much play when brakes are applied as an example
** Translation for anglophones - As others have stated before, the biggest factor in teh premature wear is not the tire itself but rather, bushings that are too soft and allow too much play when brakes are applied as an example
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Soldat79 (07-20-21)
07-21-21, 06:47 AM
#159
Driver School Candidate
Regarding OEM and Extraload type tires :
OEM is guaranteed to work, but not necessarily the best option. For user-serviceable items like tires, I often refer to reviews and ratings to choose. I decided to go with a non-OEM tire for replacement because it had better reviews than the OEM tire in most aspects, most notably wet handling except for noise, OEM tires are reviewed as very quiet.
The extra load I only noticed after purchasing the tire. It did not factor into my decision but it was printed on the new tire.
OEM is guaranteed to work, but not necessarily the best option. For user-serviceable items like tires, I often refer to reviews and ratings to choose. I decided to go with a non-OEM tire for replacement because it had better reviews than the OEM tire in most aspects, most notably wet handling except for noise, OEM tires are reviewed as very quiet.
The extra load I only noticed after purchasing the tire. It did not factor into my decision but it was printed on the new tire.
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Soldat79 (07-21-21)
08-04-21, 08:12 AM
#160
Can anyone explain the differences and recommend one of these over the other?
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Ellingtoni (08-05-21),
TLeexus (08-16-21)
08-04-21, 08:25 AM
#162
One main problem with both ends of the IS or any car for that matter, is to make sure that all the suspension is working properly. That includes worn struts, links, and bushings. Make sure you take care of that stuff too. Changing the front LCA bushings aren’t gonna help the tire wear if you have old/blown struts… The other key is alignment for both ends.
Alignment is key for the rear unless you’re lowered on springs or coilovers. If you’re super low, you may need to replace the #1 and/or #2 links with aftermarket adjustable links to get your alignment back within spec.
For the front, it really depends on how you drive and what you’re comfortable with. Three real options to help with the front inner tire wear.
1. The RCF bushings are stiffer than the stock IS front LCA bushing, but doesn’t completely stop the excessive toe, which causes the front inner tire wear. They cost less but they’ll also wear out faster than the Figs or RR-Racing versions. There is also another step of actually loading the suspension before torquing them down…not a big deal but some people forget or don’t realize they need this step. The RCF bushings will also add a slight bit of NVH but the ride remains pretty comfortable.
2. The Figs 80 and 90 durometer (stiffness) bushings will stop the front inner tire wear but will add more NVH and harshness - road feel is significantly better during hard braking - the floaty/wandering feeling is much, much better. They need to be greased where the RCF bushings don’t….again, not a big deal, just be aware.
3. The RR-Racing USRS bushings are 95 durometer - even stiffer than the Figs. Due to their design, they eliminate all the unwanted suspension movement during cornering and braking that lead to excessive caster, camber, and toe. They also add a little positive static caster back to suspension - which adds camber and feel during cornering. They add significantly more NVH and harshness to the ride but are a must for racing. Some people also complain about them squeaking during cold weather. They also need to be greased.
IMO, I don’t think you could go wrong with any of the three options I listed. It’s about what you’re looking for and how you drive because there are tradeoffs for all of them. I have the 90 durometer Figs on my car - front inner tire wear is gone completely. I talked with owners and driven cars with both the RCF and RR-Racing versions installed and feel like the Figs are a good compromise for how I drive.
Alignment is key for the rear unless you’re lowered on springs or coilovers. If you’re super low, you may need to replace the #1 and/or #2 links with aftermarket adjustable links to get your alignment back within spec.
For the front, it really depends on how you drive and what you’re comfortable with. Three real options to help with the front inner tire wear.
1. The RCF bushings are stiffer than the stock IS front LCA bushing, but doesn’t completely stop the excessive toe, which causes the front inner tire wear. They cost less but they’ll also wear out faster than the Figs or RR-Racing versions. There is also another step of actually loading the suspension before torquing them down…not a big deal but some people forget or don’t realize they need this step. The RCF bushings will also add a slight bit of NVH but the ride remains pretty comfortable.
2. The Figs 80 and 90 durometer (stiffness) bushings will stop the front inner tire wear but will add more NVH and harshness - road feel is significantly better during hard braking - the floaty/wandering feeling is much, much better. They need to be greased where the RCF bushings don’t….again, not a big deal, just be aware.
3. The RR-Racing USRS bushings are 95 durometer - even stiffer than the Figs. Due to their design, they eliminate all the unwanted suspension movement during cornering and braking that lead to excessive caster, camber, and toe. They also add a little positive static caster back to suspension - which adds camber and feel during cornering. They add significantly more NVH and harshness to the ride but are a must for racing. Some people also complain about them squeaking during cold weather. They also need to be greased.
IMO, I don’t think you could go wrong with any of the three options I listed. It’s about what you’re looking for and how you drive because there are tradeoffs for all of them. I have the 90 durometer Figs on my car - front inner tire wear is gone completely. I talked with owners and driven cars with both the RCF and RR-Racing versions installed and feel like the Figs are a good compromise for how I drive.
I also have the figs 90 and love having them. Was considering the USRS but had heard of squeaking issues as well.
If I'm not mistaken, some people have reported the wear problem even after switching to rcf bushings. I think I also saw a post on the 80 bushing not solving it for some. YMMV but the 90 duro seems to do it for most people.
08-04-21, 04:23 PM
#164
Lead Lap
Invertedmp - Did you also install the FIGS on that sweet pink ride in the background?! That looks like a mean machine (lol)
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AquaMayne (08-17-21)
08-10-21, 12:14 PM
#165
Driver School Candidate
In case this helps anyone trying to replace their bushings on their own:
Installed RCF bushings on my 2017 IS 350F AWD a few days ago and the bracket itself is held by a 22mm and a 17mm bolt. The 17mm bolt screws into a nut that is inside the subframe. I used an impact gun to loosen the nut and in that process the vibration must have caused the nut to move away from the hole once the bolt was no longer holding on to it. Now I've got a loose nut somewhere in my subframe that I can't fish out so I had to use a new nut. My advice is to open the rubber plug on the top side of the subframe and stick your finger in there to hold on to the nut as you're loosening the 17mm bolt.
Quick review of the bushings: Ride comfort/stiffness didn't change or at least I didn't notice any change. Night and day difference when turning. I was never really that confident taking hard/fast turns in the IS but it feels so much better with the RCF bushings now.
Installed RCF bushings on my 2017 IS 350F AWD a few days ago and the bracket itself is held by a 22mm and a 17mm bolt. The 17mm bolt screws into a nut that is inside the subframe. I used an impact gun to loosen the nut and in that process the vibration must have caused the nut to move away from the hole once the bolt was no longer holding on to it. Now I've got a loose nut somewhere in my subframe that I can't fish out so I had to use a new nut. My advice is to open the rubber plug on the top side of the subframe and stick your finger in there to hold on to the nut as you're loosening the 17mm bolt.
Quick review of the bushings: Ride comfort/stiffness didn't change or at least I didn't notice any change. Night and day difference when turning. I was never really that confident taking hard/fast turns in the IS but it feels so much better with the RCF bushings now.
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Soldat79 (08-14-21)