Was driving home from work when I noticed the maintenance light was blinking, the tire pressure monitor shows --- for all 4 tires, and the blind spot monitoring system is dead. How can something go wrong in the tire and mirror area at the same time? What luck. Sounds like it will be expensive to fix too. Anyone have any ideas?

 

This came up recently, they're related but I can't remember what it was! Sometime in the last couple weeks though. Someone will be more helpful if you don't find the related thread.

 

Maybe check fuses...specifically the 10A ECU-IG1 NO.2 fuse under the dash. It is common to both systems.

Are their any aftermarket accessories on the vehicle? Like a dashcam or radar detector?

 

Hey man, you were right! the problem was a blown d/l 10 amps fusible link. Overall, spent 90 bucks at the dealership to get it fixed.

 

@Sasnuke is the clublexus GOAT

 

Welp, here's another update.. after the dealership replaced the fusible link, it was blown again a day later, showing the same symptoms with the flashing light, dead tire pressure / dead blind spot monitor system. Taking it back to the dealership this Saturday.

 

Was this the fusible link they wrote down on the work order, cause I'm pretty sure that is not actually a name for any of the fusible links in the car? That and fusible links are usually rated way higher than 10A...usually they start at 50-80A because it's supposed to be protection for a group of circuits. Likely there is a bunch of stuff in the car not working that you might not realize. Check the wipers and brake lights and see if they work.
If it really was a fusible link that blew, that's not a good sign...and I'm not trying to scare you. Because fusible links protect a group of circuits, the fuses for those individual circuits are rated much lower (5-30A), so if something in one circuit has a problem, that small fuse is supposed to blow first, not the link. If the link blows, that means the issue is between the link and all the little fuses...which typically means it's somewhere close to the battery...so likely under the hood.
I'm still a little bit skeptical that a fusible link blew...you would probably notice so many things in the car not working.
So they found the blown fuse (or link), but not why it blew. Fuses only blow because the amperage of the circuit was exceeded...either due to a short to ground or a malfunctioning component.

If the car has any aftermarket electrical accessories (i.e. dashcam, radar detector, remote start, etc.), that's probably where I would start looking as to the cause.

If they put any more info on the work order, if you don't mind sharing maybe it could save you hours of diagnosis time at the dealer...and the associated cost.

 

Hey man, appreciate all the info. Yes, the work order called it d/l 10 A fusible link but i have no idea what d/l means even after googling it lol. My service advisor also mentioned the same thing as you did in regards to what electrical accessories I've installed in my car.. and the only ones I've installed are illuminated scuff plates (prob did it like 3-4 years ago?) It was done by splicing the wires using a clamp (looks similar to this https://www.dhgate.com/product/100pc...9.html#seo=WAP). Maybe it's most likely this is the problem? I'll check wipes and brake lights just in case, but I think if those didn't work the techs would have caught that and mentioned it to me.

In any case, the advisor wanted me to leave the car for a couple days and pay ~$500 for them to dig deeper into the dashboard to see what the problem is. I declined and decided to wait for a family friend to reopen his shop and I'll let him take a look at it.

 

Are the illuminated scuff plates still working? If they are not then they are tied to the fuse that has blown again, which could mean they are the cause.
Maybe check the fuse boxes under the hood to see if you can see the blown fusible link.
If not check the 10A ECU-IG1 NO.2 under the dash and see if it's blown.
Did they put the part number of the fusible link on the workorder copy you got...that might tell you which one it is by doing a part number search online.

 

Whew, it's been a while. Sorry for the late response, some stuff going on in life.

Wipes and brake lights work fine, as do the illuminated scuff plates. My knowledge on the inner workings of cars is very limited, so I won't be able to check anything under the dash.

I am second guessing on whether I should bother taking this to a 3rd party shop to figure this out. This seems really complex and I should probably take it to the dealer. I've never went to autoshops for electrical repairs so I dunno if they have the knowledge to figure this out.

 

if your going to go back to the Dealer, sooner is better than later depending on how many miles you put on


i would find a great Repair/Maintenance Shop and stick with them....even find someone who specializes in Toyota/Lexus ONLY

like: toyexus
https://www.toyexusdenver.com/


check your area, spend a minute on Google reviews, and get it addressed

electrical problems can be a headache but you need to get it fixed before it gets worse...best of luck

 

Update time.. took it to the dealership to disconnect illuminated door sills. They even drove the car around afterwards to make sure fuse didn't blow. Everything works. I took it home. Fuse blows the next morning.

Sasnuke, you were right that it's not the fusible link, its just fuse. I have no idea why they wrote fusible link. I'm not even sure if they named the fuse right the first time. Why? Because they wrote the first time the fuse blew it was the d/l fuse (looked it up online, called the power door lock fuse). Now that the fuse has blown again, this time they write in the report its the 10 A ECU-IG NO.2 fuse that has blown (exactly what you mentioned sasnuke!). So now I'm confused. Either 2 different fuses were blown at different times prior/after removing the illuminated door sills, or the dealership is messing up on the reports. I can't tell.

 

So as it sits the illuminated sill plates are disconnected and the 10A ECU-IG NO.2 fuse has blown again? Thus ruling out the sill plates, but still leaving you as to why the fuse keeps blowing.

 

Yes.. next up I will try disconnecting the interior and mirror lights since I also installed aftermarket lights in those..

 

Before you start disconnecting more stuff, here is a list of absolutely every circuit that the 10A ECU-IG1 NO.2 fuse is connected to:


First, scratch off the list everything you don't have on the car.
Second, from whats left check the most simplest circuits first.

My best guess is that you would start with the Taillight circuit. Get a handful of 10A fuses so you can put a new one whenever one blows.