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Last night was the most happiest moment of my life after my son’s birth.
Its Alive!!! Tears were in my eyes as sound started coming out of the speakers.
Thank you to all of you
Here is what i did and found out:
Basically took apart whole center console where i found traces of dark coffee stains as the USB connector was jammed with coffee gunk.
Found more coffee stains and dried powder inside rear console air blower and bunch of yucky coins.
Cleaned with connector cleaner and air can all possible connectors and behind the radio.
Cleaned up all Kick Panel connectors including KP2.
I am not sure what worked but i did everything and lastly disconnected the battery negative terminal for half hour, but i am so happy.
After I had disconnected the battery , I had put back the Amp which I had disconnected ffew days back. The amp was repaired by UR.
Now, I discovered a sure shot reason why the amp migjt have failed. The on the right side by the amp at bottom found cracked original seal that merge metal floor of this well. I could see clearly where the moisture might have come from. I will try to attach a photo i took of this crack.
So I cant believe I have done it. It took me maybe 20 or so hours with my kids helping out time to time, probably saved thousands in process.
Grateful to CL for the platform.
Thanks.
Xus2020
Recently there have been a number of threads/posts popping up with regards to a loss of volume or sound on the 3IS, specifically focused on the 2014 model year.
While most of these threads identify the standard audio system (8 Speaker), there are some that speak about the same issue on the Mark Levinson (ML) system (15 Speaker).
What’s the issue?
Simply, no sound! Or as some refer to it, no volume.
Either way you reference it, the result is that there is no sound coming from the speakers. Regardless of the audio source (Bluetooth, radio, CD, DVD, Aux.) the speakers do not produce any sound whatsoever.
To best understand the pathway of how the sound emits from the speakers, the simplest explanation is that the radio head unit sends a signal to the Amplifier (Amp) as to what sound to produce, and the Amp sends the appropriate signal out to all the speakers.
Should the Amp become defective, or even removed from the system, the radio head unit will still function the same and send the signals down the wires, but the result will be no sound from the speakers.
At this time the specific internal failure of the Amp isn’t known as to what causes the loss of sound.
Symptoms
Common symptoms you may have an Amp failure:
· No sound
· No volume control from the radio volume **** or steering wheel controls
· Volume doesn’t change on the multi-display when attempting to adjust the volume
· Cannot adjust audio profile settings, or equalizer settings (i.e. Fade, Left/Right, Treble, Bass, etc.)
· Prior to the sound stopping you may have noticed an odd/weird pop sound from the speakers
· Prior to the sound completely stopping you may have noticed periods of no sound to which the sound would randomly return
Things to check first
As with an electrical device that is suspected to be inoperative, you will need to confirm the device has Power (B+) and Ground (-) at least. This is where checking the fuses is a basic start…and since we are all at different levels working/checking our own vehicles, go at your own pace as to what you are comfortable with.
In reference specifically to the 2014 IS standard and Premium (ML) audio, check the following fuses located under the driver’s lower dash panel to confirm they are not blown:
· 30A AMP NO.1
· 30A AMP NO.2
You may be wondering why you’re not checking the Radio fuses…realistically if the radio is working, then the associated fuses are fine.
Next you can check the Diagnostic menu in the multi-display for any Amp related codes/failures.
To access the Diagnostic menu:
· Turn the engine switch to on (Ignition ON)
· While pressing and holding the “Menu” button, operate the light control switch: Off -> Tail -> Off -> Tail -> Off -> Tail ->Off
· Diagnostic mode starts and the “Service Menu” screen will be displayed
· Select “Failure Diagnosis” then “System Check”
· You may retrieve a code B15C3
Assuming you’ve made it this far and haven’t resolved the issue, the next thing to check for is water damage of the Amp.
The Amp is in the trunk on the right side of the floor.
You will need to remove all the trim panels covering the floor and right side to access it.
Now that you’ve accessed the Amp, you are checking for any signs of water or condensation around or on the Amp. If found, remove the Amp from the vehicle and dry completely. Careful use of a hairdryer is recommended, but if you have time, air drying is also appropriate.
For those that are adventurous, you may want to even open the Amp to confirm the inside is dry.
So, you’ve checked all the fuses, and everything was good, and you checked the Amp for water damage, and that was good too…now what?
Maybe you did find water damage, dried it out, and still nothing.
Solutions
Well, it’s time to replace the Amp.
If you had gone through the effort of physically checking the Amp, then you would have seen the parts label on it, which would have contained the part number…10 digits separated by a hyphen in the middle.
2014 Amp part numbers:
Audio systems
Standard Audio Part number
86280-53180 or 86280-53181 Notes
The second part number is a replacement for the original part. While either will work, it would be better to get the updated part.
Part number
86280-53190 or 86280-53191 Notes
The second part number is a replacement for the original part. While either will work, it would be better to get the updated part.
Premium Audio Mark Levinson (ML) Part number
86280-0W690 Notes
While there is no official updated part for 0W690, thanks to Canadian member whong6187, part number 86280-0W691 was a successful plug and play install and functioning normally https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...amplifier.html
Alternately you could install an aftermarket Amp. In the reference threads below you will find attachments of the wiring diagrams for the audio systems on the 2014/2015 IS…specifically this one: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...e-control.html
Repair options
Thanks to member Gekko for advising us that he had his Amp repaired by a US company called United Radio. They have their Automotive Electronics Repair division in East Syracuse, New York.
You can check out their website and contact them for more information (copy/paste site name to your browser and remove all the spaces in the site name "u n i t e d r a d i o" so it is one word...for some reason it is being censored on CL): https://www.u n i t e d r a d i o.com/automotive-electronics/repair-and-remanufacturing/
woooow thanks alot for your help,and doing this for others bro.
i want to ask plz,in brief.now After 8 months on diagnosis of my problem, 5 electrician told me it the stereo head unit had failed(ic control) and i need a new stereo(everything else is fine). Anywayz im not in america and i want to order one from ebay, but i couldnt find anything match my part number. I wanna make sureeeee ,is it ok to order one??
thanks alot
woooow thanks alot for your help,and doing this for others bro.
i want to ask plz,in brief.now After 8 months on diagnosis of my problem, 5 electrician told me it the stereo head unit had failed(ic control) and i need a new stereo(everything else is fine). Anywayz im not in america and i want to order one from ebay, but i couldnt find anything match my part number. I wanna make sureeeee ,is it ok to order one??
thanks alot
What is the part number for the one in your vehicle? And the faceplate ID number (it's at the bottom left of the second picture you posted...starts with the letter "P"?
What is the issue you're having with your stereo system? I understand that 5 electricians have determined it's the head unit that has failed, but just in case it could be something else.
Hi Sans, Do you have similar diagrams for the 2is? is250 2nd gens?
i have the same issue and am at ends wit.
thanks in advance.
See documents attached.
I've titled the docs to be self explanatory...first check for codes in the Navi unit...next compare the codes you get to the list of codes provided...and last, suspecting you may get a code 74-40, the diagnostic procedures for that codes are attached.
My amp died due to moisture in the rear passenger side well. I had all the symptoms in OPs post, let the amp dry in front of a fan with the cover off for 3 days, no cigar.
I purchased a refurbished amp from OEM Auto Audio oemautoaudio on eBay, he also offers free shipping on the failed amp with a core charge up to $150.
He pointed out to me that the body vent next to the amp commonly fails and lets in excessive water/moisture. The vent part number is 62940-06120.
Here is a pic with the vent/amp in question:
In my specific case I believe I found a body clip behind the rear passenger wheel well which was missing and allowed a **** ton of water to get into the vent area. I have a new vent on the way just to be sure.
My amp died due to moisture in the rear passenger side well. I had all the symptoms in OPs post, let the amp dry in front of a fan with the cover off for 3 days, no cigar.
I purchased a refurbished amp from OEM Auto Audio oemautoaudio on eBay, he also offers free shipping on the failed amp with a core charge up to $150.
He pointed out to me that the body vent next to the amp commonly fails and lets in excessive water/moisture. The vent part number is 62940-06120.
Here is a pic with the vent/amp in question:
In my specific case I believe I found a body clip behind the rear passenger wheel well which was missing and allowed a **** ton of water to get into the vent area. I have a new vent on the way just to be sure.
@bumbletuna If you can post some pics of the old flap once you change it, that would be great.
The flap just works on air pressure...so when you close a door or the trunk the momentary increase in cabin pressure causes the flaps on the vent to open...once the pressure is relieved the flaps close.
The entire process probably takes a second. There's no moving or mechanic parts, so really it comes down to either the flap deteriorated or somehow got stuck open.
You may also have to remove the bumper, or partially remove it, to change the vent assembly.
I didnt have to remove bumper for mine in the 2006. I did both sides a year ago after finding out about it. no water in the trunk since.
Sorry Sans i think i through them out you could see through them as the flap get deteriorated and shrunk. No more exhaust smell in the car either! changed just in time for having my little guy!
Ok so i cleared all the codes and checked the amp for power in b1 b2 and the acc power. i don't actually see any voltage going to the ACC when the car is in acc mode.
I will double check again as its a bit warmer out now. If I don't get any voltage to the ACC what do you think is going on. My fuses under hood are getting power. (not sure if 100% needed but most likely was around 11 volts i believe.
here is the updated codes after clearing them all and waiting a bit.
thanks Sans. let me know what you think.
Wyler.
Ok so i cleared all the codes and checked the amp for power in b1 b2 and the acc power. i don't actually see any voltage going to the ACC when the car is in acc mode.
I will double check again as its a bit warmer out now. If I don't get any voltage to the ACC what do you think is going on. My fuses under hood are getting power. (not sure if 100% needed but most likely was around 11 volts i believe.
here is the updated codes after clearing them all and waiting a bit.
thanks Sans. let me know what you think.
Wyler.
If you're getting power at +B and +B2, then the RAD NO. 1 and NO. 2 fuses under the hood are good.
The fuses should be battery voltage, so if the battery is 12.4V, then the fuses should be almost the same, maybe 12.2V or 12.3V, or even 12.4V.
The ACC terminal is fed power from the 7.5A ACC fuse in the passenger kick panel, behind the glove box area at the side of the car.
The 7.5 ACC fuse powers 6 circuits in total, so if it blew then at least 6 things in the car wouldn't be working, not just the Amp.
Nonetheless, the fuse needs to be checked to make sure it has Battery voltage when the vehicle is in Accessory mode for the Ignition, and that the fuse isn't blown.
If the 7.5A ACC fuse has power and is not blow, which I suspect it will be fine, then you need to confirm that power is leaving the fuse block on connector RJ pin 23...as seen below. The vehicle needs to be in Accessory mode when checking for power at RJ-23.
If the fuse is good, and RJ-23 has Battery voltage when in Accessory mode, and there is no power at the Amp on the ACC terminal, then the issue is the Orange wire between RJ-23 and the Amp (P30-12).
The Orange wire is one continuous wire from RJ-23 to P30-12 of the Amp, so it's basically almost as long as the car.
I will add another doc to the post above that has all the docs...the new doc "2006 IS Right Hand Junction Block" will show you where connector RJ is located.
Code 01-D5 confirms that a device is disconnected from the Audio system.
Since DSP-AMP shows NCON, this confirms the disconnected device is the Amp...hence why you have no sound.
Once you check the 7.5A ACC fuse and RJ-23, report back so we can see where to go next.
I did another diagnostic and noticed these codes. I checked the fuse and it is fine. Kp2 was plugged in yet hard to see and definitely not sure how to sick my multimeter in there to test to see if receiving power. I will test the orange wire at the amp again now that its nice to see if i can get power to that acc wire.
thought i would post this for now to ensure there isn't something else going on. When i look up the code it seems like its due to the disconnection but wanted to double check!
thanks Sansuke
10-10-20, 07:17 AM
Hallalujiah!! Hoooorrrayyy!!! 🎊🎉🎊🎉🎊
Last night was the most happiest moment of my life after my son’s birth.
