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All about Lexus IS No Sound (Volume) - Amplifier failure
Recently there have been a number of threads/posts popping up with regards to a loss of volume or sound on the 3IS, specifically focused on the 2014 model year.
While most of these threads identify the standard audio system (8 Speaker), there are some that speak about the same issue on the Mark Levinson (ML) system (15 Speaker).
What’s the issue?
Simply, no sound! Or as some refer to it, no volume.
Either way you reference it, the result is that there is no sound coming from the speakers. Regardless of the audio source (Bluetooth, radio, CD, DVD, Aux.) the speakers do not produce any sound whatsoever.
To best understand the pathway of how the sound emits from the speakers, the simplest explanation is that the radio head unit sends a signal to the Amplifier (Amp) as to what sound to produce, and the Amp sends the appropriate signal out to all the speakers.
Should the Amp become defective, or even removed from the system, the radio head unit will still function the same and send the signals down the wires, but the result will be no sound from the speakers.
At this time the specific internal failure of the Amp isn’t known as to what causes the loss of sound.
Symptoms
Common symptoms you may have an Amp failure:
· No sound
· No volume control from the radio volume **** or steering wheel controls
· Volume doesn’t change on the multi-display when attempting to adjust the volume
· Cannot adjust audio profile settings, or equalizer settings (i.e. Fade, Left/Right, Treble, Bass, etc.)
· Prior to the sound stopping you may have noticed an odd/weird pop sound from the speakers
· Prior to the sound completely stopping you may have noticed periods of no sound to which the sound would randomly return
Things to check first
As with an electrical device that is suspected to be inoperative, you will need to confirm the device has Power (B+) and Ground (-) at least. This is where checking the fuses is a basic start…and since we are all at different levels working/checking our own vehicles, go at your own pace as to what you are comfortable with.
In reference specifically to the 2014 IS standard and Premium (ML) audio, check the following fuses located under the driver’s lower dash panel to confirm they are not blown:
· 30A AMP NO.1
· 30A AMP NO.2
You may be wondering why you’re not checking the Radio fuses…realistically if the radio is working, then the associated fuses are fine.
Next you can check the Diagnostic menu in the multi-display for any Amp related codes/failures.
To access the Diagnostic menu:
· Turn the engine switch to on (Ignition ON)
· While pressing and holding the “Menu” button, operate the light control switch: Off -> Tail -> Off -> Tail -> Off -> Tail ->Off
· Diagnostic mode starts and the “Service Menu” screen will be displayed
· Select “Failure Diagnosis” then “System Check”
· You may retrieve a code B15C3
Assuming you’ve made it this far and haven’t resolved the issue, the next thing to check for is water damage of the Amp.
The Amp is in the trunk on the right side of the floor.
You will need to remove all the trim panels covering the floor and right side to access it.
Now that you’ve accessed the Amp, you are checking for any signs of water or condensation around or on the Amp. If found, remove the Amp from the vehicle and dry completely. Careful use of a hairdryer is recommended, but if you have time, air drying is also appropriate.
For those that are adventurous, you may want to even open the Amp to confirm the inside is dry.
So, you’ve checked all the fuses, and everything was good, and you checked the Amp for water damage, and that was good too…now what?
Maybe you did find water damage, dried it out, and still nothing.
Solutions
Well, it’s time to replace the Amp.
If you had gone through the effort of physically checking the Amp, then you would have seen the parts label on it, which would have contained the part number…10 digits separated by a hyphen in the middle.
2014 Amp part numbers:
Audio systems
Standard Audio - non ML without Navigation Part number
86280-53180 or 86280-53181 Notes
The second part number is a replacement for the original part. While either will work, it would be better to get the updated part.
Standard Audio - non ML with Navigation Part number
86280-53190 or 86280-53191 Notes
The second part number is a replacement for the original part. While either will work, it would be better to get the updated part.
Premium Audio Mark Levinson (ML) Part number
86280-0W690 Notes
While there is no official updated part for 0W690, thanks to Canadian member whong6187, part number 86280-0W691 was a successful plug and play install and functioning normally https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...amplifier.html
Alternately you could install an aftermarket Amp. In the reference threads below you will find attachments of the wiring diagrams for the audio systems on the 2014/2015 IS…specifically this one: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...e-control.html
Repair options
Thanks to member Gekko for advising us that he had his Amp repaired by a US company called United Radio. They have their Automotive Electronics Repair division in East Syracuse, New York.
You can check out their website and contact them for more information (copy/paste site name to your browser and remove all the spaces in the site name "u n i t e d r a d i o" so it is one word...for some reason it is being censored on CL): https://www.u n i t e d r a d i o.com/automotive-electronics/repair-and-remanufacturing/
People are going to be dismayed at the fact of a $3,000-$4,000+ amplifier going bad on essentially a new/4-year old car barely out of warranty. =( I am sure though the part responsible is likely a 2 cent capacitor or resistor inside that some electronics wizard can fix. I bet if we go even deeper, the whole amp doesn't need replacing. Usually MO for this type of stuff.
People are going to be dismayed at the fact of a $3,000-$4,000+ amplifier going bad on essentially a new/4-year old car barely out of warranty. =( I am sure though the part responsible is likely a 2 cent capacitor or resistor inside that some electronics wizard can fix. I bet if we go even deeper, the whole amp doesn't need replacing. Usually MO for this type of stuff.
You are likely correct that it is a small part within the Amp. If we had a audio tech on here that could actually repair one, it would be a great DIY for everyone with a 2014.
Unfortunately the 2014's aren't going to be recently out of warranty...this month my IS250 is 7 years old...so I'm already 3 years out of the "bumper to bumper" warranty.
Even a late production 2014 is going to be 6+ years old, which translates into 2+ years out of warranty.
Best you can hope for is extended warranty coverage...which is likely also at an end.
Not sure where you're buying your Amps, but the Standard audio Amp brand new is approx. $770 USD, and the ML Amp is $2042 USD.
I'm sure some searching could reveal even lower prices.
Dear readers,
This is my first post as new member as I write about this with extreme frustration and feel I am dead in water.
I have read a lot about amp failures on these cars and can't believe what I am going through with my most anxiously waited Lexus purchase of my life after saving for years. Previously had ES300 and RX330. I will try to be brief and concise in my story so far:
Bought this IS350F 2015 model from an auction in Dallas. The car had been in Texas all its life. I am the second owner. I could not inspect the car personally due to COVID19 restrictions and relied on that extra $200 inspection which came clear.
Found out that everything works, navi, a/c, etc, just NO Sound at all.
Took it to Austin Lexus with great anticipation that I would be going home rocking with my fav songs in my first rear-wheel drive car. They came back saying its the amp and needs to be replaced for $1200 and charged me $200. I couldn't believe the steep price and hoped i could easily get after market solution. BOY, Was I wrong.
Spent countless hours on internet and eBay but could not find my 86280-53190 or the newer replacement.
After reading this CL forum, I decided to give UR a shot in Albany NY.
The amp was delivered last Friday with the same explanations that these amps are prone to fail due to moisture in the trunk well, etc, etc. In addition, IN the description of the Invoice the gentleman suggested to find the connection junction between the head unit at front console and the amp and disconnect and clean with connector cleaner.
So, realizing my luck, I decided to open up full console and disconnected every possible connection and cleaned it with the spray.
Before putting back all console panels, I connected the amp in the trunk and harnessed it to the bolts as well and I gave it shot!
NO Sound. Bummed, I decided to check all fuses. All Good! no burnouts.
Put everything back and tried again, no luck, No sound again. Everythings works perfect.
Very disappointed, I called UR today and talked to the technician who fixed my amp and He said to do THAT Junction cleanup which is NOT what I cleaned. THAT junction between the Data connections and the amp is underneath the head unit deep and/or under carpeting around and completed the call.
Already spend so far, dealer = $200 and United Radio = $425.
Now, I later tried to call to ask more questions like what if I can't succeed with this junction connector cleanup as well, then what? but He was gone for the day today. I will call back tomorrow.
Guys/Gals,
I would like your help: What should I do next? Does anyone know how UR and give me a proof or assurance the they are sending me the fixed amp repaired 100% and tested?
Should I start tearing the console and carpeting now?
The amp was delivered last Friday with the same explanations that these amps are prone to fail due to moisture in the trunk well, etc, etc. In addition, IN the description of the Invoice the gentleman suggested to find the connection junction between the head unit at front console and the amp and disconnect and clean with connector cleaner.
So, realizing my luck, I decided to open up full console and disconnected every possible connection and cleaned it with the spray.
Very disappointed, I called UR today and talked to the technician who fixed my amp and He said to do THAT Junction cleanup which is NOT what I cleaned. THAT junction between the Data connections and the amp is underneath the head unit deep and/or under carpeting around and completed the call.
@xus2020 Not to contradict the UR tech, but the steps above about cleaning the connectors was an absolute colossal waste of time.
If the Tech was anticipating the connectors inside the vehicle were contaminated somehow, then the vehicle would have other issues than just no sound.
There are two possibilities:
The Amp isn't actually fixed
There is something else wrong
I would suggest that you go into the Diagnostic Service menu for the navigation and see if there are any codes present.
The instructions are in the original post of this thread.
[/list]@xus2020 Not to contradict the UR tech, but the steps above about cleaning the connectors was an absolute colossal waste of time.
If the Tech was anticipating the connectors inside the vehicle were contaminated somehow, then the vehicle would have other issues than just no sound.
There are two possibilities:
The Amp isn't actually fixed
There is something else wrong
I would suggest that you go into the Diagnostic Service menu for the navigation and see if there are any codes present.
The instructions are in the original post of this thread.
Thank You for your reply Sir, above is the screen shot from the scan. I didn't see the AMP error code.
I talked to the technician again today and asked for any proof if the fix was actual done or not and he declined to provide any. Again, reiterated to clean that connection but this time added that the connector is below the radio and goes along the console to the back of the car. I am planning to take that apart one more time this week end.
Thank You for your reply Sir, above is the screen shot from the scan. I didn't see the AMP error code.
I talked to the technician again today and asked for any proof if the fix was actual done or not and he declined to provide any. Again, reiterated to clean that connection but this time added that the connector is below the radio and goes along the console to the back of the car. I am planning to take that apart one more time this week end.
I'm still leery of the UR techs recommendation to clean the connectors...I'm willing to bet money it will do absolutely nothing.
For reference, there is only 1 connector in the center console between the Radio and Amp. The connector is in the area below the shifter...it has 8 pins and mostly the wire colors are black and white.
There is also one other connector in the passenger kick panel. It's a larger connector with 26 pins...if you remove the passenger kick panel you will see multiple connectors...it would be the one closest to the floor of the vehicle, basically the lowest connector of the bunch.
Ultimately I see you returning the Amp to UR for it to be fixed. They must have a way to test the Amp once they are done repairing it. Whether they record that test or not is a different question.
I would also suggest checking the two fuses for the Amp, 30A AMP NO.1 and NO.2...on the off chance that one of them has now blown.
Thank You Sasnuke,
So family happened this last weekend and could not get to take the console apart but was able to do these two things:
Replaced AMP 1 and AMP 2 fuses plus the radio fuse for 15A - ----- No Success
Disconnected the Negative battery terminal and left it for 15 mins and reconnected. It wouldn't start after trying for three times then realize i should close the hood and viola!! it started but ------ No Success
Please give me more information of how to get to kick panel and the connectors behind it. Do I need to take the out the glove box, etc.??
Im sad that its so nice here in Austin now and I cant go riding my IS without audio.
Sorry, I just read your link but there is information about kick panel removal. Are you referring to the other links in there? Please let me know. Thanks.
08-11-20, 02:28 PM
All about Lexus IS No Sound (Volume) - Amplifier failure
2015 IS350F - No Sound - what next? Please Help
------ No Success
