Help torn front caliper boot
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Help torn front caliper boot
Hi,
Upon cleaning my left front brake of my IS350 today I noticed the top caliper piston boot is torn. See photo below. Can this be replaced? If so, how and which part should I order? Could I continue to drive with a torn caliper piston boot?
Upon cleaning my left front brake of my IS350 today I noticed the top caliper piston boot is torn. See photo below. Can this be replaced? If so, how and which part should I order? Could I continue to drive with a torn caliper piston boot?
#2
Lexus Test Driver
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,260
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The concern here is water and dirt getting inside the boot and causing corrosion, eventually leading to the piston seizing.
It's not an immediate emergency that you need to take the vehicle off the road, but you'll want to fix it sooner than later.
Options:
It's not terribly hard to do, but a little hard to explain how depending which option you choose.
Also you will need to bleed the brakes when you're done...at least that one caliper, not the entire system.
It's not an immediate emergency that you need to take the vehicle off the road, but you'll want to fix it sooner than later.
Options:
- Get a rebuild kit and rebuild the entire caliper - Caliper rebuild kit: 04478-22040 - should be about $25 USD...maybe less. Comes with parts to rebuild both calipers
- Get a rebuild kit and replace just the one boot...and the seal inside that seals against the piston
It's not terribly hard to do, but a little hard to explain how depending which option you choose.
Also you will need to bleed the brakes when you're done...at least that one caliper, not the entire system.
#3
Instructor
The concern here is water and dirt getting inside the boot and causing corrosion, eventually leading to the piston seizing.
It's not an immediate emergency that you need to take the vehicle off the road, but you'll want to fix it sooner than later.
Options:
It's not terribly hard to do, but a little hard to explain how depending which option you choose.
Also you will need to bleed the brakes when you're done...at least that one caliper, not the entire system.
It's not an immediate emergency that you need to take the vehicle off the road, but you'll want to fix it sooner than later.
Options:
- Get a rebuild kit and rebuild the entire caliper - Caliper rebuild kit: 04478-22040 - should be about $25 USD...maybe less. Comes with parts to rebuild both calipers
- Get a rebuild kit and replace just the one boot...and the seal inside that seals against the piston
It's not terribly hard to do, but a little hard to explain how depending which option you choose.
Also you will need to bleed the brakes when you're done...at least that one caliper, not the entire system.
#4
Lexus Test Driver
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,260
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I pretty much tell people to drive it til it's metal to metal, cause the reality is the rotors are going to be toast at the end of the pad lifespan, so you're changing pads and rotors at the same time regardless if the pads were metal to metal or not.
Now...where we are on the continent we get winter, which brings salt and brine, which does a number on exposed metal.
I could see a place like California or Florida where you could potentially get 2 sets of pads to every set of rotors...maybe with a light machine after the first set of pads wear out...worst case.
Here in Ontario, slim chance of that happening.
#5
Instructor
Given the trend of recycling, it's pretty apparent that the quality of brake rotors has gone down dramatically in the last 10+ years.
I pretty much tell people to drive it til it's metal to metal, cause the reality is the rotors are going to be toast at the end of the pad lifespan, so you're changing pads and rotors at the same time regardless if the pads were metal to metal or not.
Now...where we are on the continent we get winter, which brings salt and brine, which does a number on exposed metal.
I could see a place like California or Florida where you could potentially get 2 sets of pads to every set of rotors...maybe with a light machine after the first set of pads wear out...worst case.
Here in Ontario, slim chance of that happening.
I pretty much tell people to drive it til it's metal to metal, cause the reality is the rotors are going to be toast at the end of the pad lifespan, so you're changing pads and rotors at the same time regardless if the pads were metal to metal or not.
Now...where we are on the continent we get winter, which brings salt and brine, which does a number on exposed metal.
I could see a place like California or Florida where you could potentially get 2 sets of pads to every set of rotors...maybe with a light machine after the first set of pads wear out...worst case.
Here in Ontario, slim chance of that happening.
#6
Lexus Test Driver
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,260
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Noob question, got my car at 55,000km first thing I did was put on new rotors and akebono asp pads, do you have to change them at same time? I’m at 90, 000km now is it just more likely they’ll be done at same time or is it possible I can just change rotors and still have some life out of pads? The rotors visibly look pretty worn and I’m getting some front end squealing here and there but I thought akebono ceramics would last longer than 35k
Do you have to change them at same time? Not necessarily...usually you change pads and rotors, or just pads...very rarely do you change rotors and not the pads.
I’m at 90, 000km now is it just more likely they’ll be done at same time or is it possible I can just change rotors and still have some life out of pads? I would just wait until the pads need changing and then change the pads and rotors. The rotors will survive until the end of the pad life.
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