Lexus is350 oil type: summer and winter
08-16-20, 06:15 AM
#16
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Thread Starter
Likely you're correct that the forced induction combined with internal engine clearances is why they recommend 5W40.
If you're in Toronto I'm not sure how often it gets below -35, much as less -40. Im north of Hwy 7 in Richmond Hill, so guaranteed its colder up here, and that's still nothing when you look at Sudbury in January. For them -40 is flip flop weather lol!!
Have you noticed an increase in oil consumption when you run the 0W40?
If you're in Toronto I'm not sure how often it gets below -35, much as less -40. Im north of Hwy 7 in Richmond Hill, so guaranteed its colder up here, and that's still nothing when you look at Sudbury in January. For them -40 is flip flop weather lol!!
Have you noticed an increase in oil consumption when you run the 0W40?
If I do summer/winter, I would go 5w30 and 0w30. If i do all year, i would probably go 0w30.
where did you guys read that its ok to put 0w20? I honestly think its way to thin imo. And I am not comfortable to please the mpg or fuel efficiency claims of lexus, while potentially causing long term damage to the engine. In fact, I have read that u would be better going 5w40 from 5w30 than to 5w20. The 40 means thicker oil, yes, but in hot countries where oil temps will be very high, it would protect your engine better. Am not sure how 20 would be ok.
Last edited by Waffles17; 08-16-20 at 06:32 AM.
08-16-20, 07:06 AM
#17
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Actually, some people see increase, others decrease of oil consumption using M1 0w40 (again on german cars) even if its all on the same exact type of engine.
If I do summer/winter, I would go 5w30 and 0w30. If i do all year, i would probably go 0w30.
where did you guys read that its ok to put 0w20? I honestly think its way to thin imo. And I am not comfortable to please the mpg or fuel efficiency claims of lexus, while potentially causing long term damage to the engine. In fact, I have read that u would be better going 5w40 from 5w30 than to 5w20. The 40 means thicker oil, yes, but in hot countries where oil temps will be very high, it would protect your engine better. Am not sure how 20 would be ok.
If I do summer/winter, I would go 5w30 and 0w30. If i do all year, i would probably go 0w30.
where did you guys read that its ok to put 0w20? I honestly think its way to thin imo. And I am not comfortable to please the mpg or fuel efficiency claims of lexus, while potentially causing long term damage to the engine. In fact, I have read that u would be better going 5w40 from 5w30 than to 5w20. The 40 means thicker oil, yes, but in hot countries where oil temps will be very high, it would protect your engine better. Am not sure how 20 would be ok.
1. Where did you guys read that its ok to put 0w20? Owners Manual
Actually, I previously stated the manuals says you can use 5W30 if 0W20 is not available...I was incorrect, as per above it's 5W20 if 0W20 is not available.
2. And I am not comfortable to please the mpg or fuel efficiency claims of lexus, while potentially causing long term damage to the engine.
Fair enough, but the GR family of engines has been out since 2005 without issues of failure related to oiling. If you've owned any Toyota/Lexus in the last 15 years with a V6, it's some form of a GR engine.
You may come from a car ownership background where seasonal oil is needed/warranted and the use of thicker oils is the norm, but in the Toyota world this is not so or necessary.
Toyota has built a reputation on reliability...I doubt they are going to let that tank for something as simple as oil viscosity.
3. The 40 means thicker oil, yes, but in hot countries where oil temps will be very high, it would protect your engine better.
That is very true and I agree with you...unfortunately Canada (including Toronto) is not that country...not even close.
I have a question, where did you read that its ok to put 0w30? Cause I've never heard that before.
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Waffles17 (08-16-20)
08-16-20, 07:07 AM
#18
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Actually, some people see increase, others decrease of oil consumption using M1 0w40 (again on german cars) even if its all on the same exact type of engine.
If I do summer/winter, I would go 5w30 and 0w30. If i do all year, i would probably go 0w30.
where did you guys read that its ok to put 0w20? I honestly think its way to thin imo. And I am not comfortable to please the mpg or fuel efficiency claims of lexus, while potentially causing long term damage to the engine. In fact, I have read that u would be better going 5w40 from 5w30 than to 5w20. The 40 means thicker oil, yes, but in hot countries where oil temps will be very high, it would protect your engine better. Am not sure how 20 would be ok.
If I do summer/winter, I would go 5w30 and 0w30. If i do all year, i would probably go 0w30.
where did you guys read that its ok to put 0w20? I honestly think its way to thin imo. And I am not comfortable to please the mpg or fuel efficiency claims of lexus, while potentially causing long term damage to the engine. In fact, I have read that u would be better going 5w40 from 5w30 than to 5w20. The 40 means thicker oil, yes, but in hot countries where oil temps will be very high, it would protect your engine better. Am not sure how 20 would be ok.
08-16-20, 07:43 AM
#19
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If manual states 0w20, 0w20 will be what am putting.
Does the engine oil cap says 0w20 or 5w30?
08-16-20, 11:49 AM
#20
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If you haven't gotten an IS/Lexus yet, then you're definitely in for a different experience.
08-16-20, 01:34 PM
#21
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German cars are way more fun to drive (M3, S4, RS5, C63 AMG, and so on)
I like the fact the is300/350 sits lower, it handles really nice, its planted. It has really nice features on the F sport 2 or 3, which is what I would buy.
Things I dont like: steering is really heavy, it lacks about 50-80 hp over the 305 stock. Infotainment system needs a major upgrade.
08-16-20, 02:40 PM
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I test drive many. Reliability would be the only reason I would switch over.
German cars are way more fun to drive (M3, S4, RS5, C63 AMG, and so on)
I like the fact the is300/350 sits lower, it handles really nice, its planted. It has really nice features on the F sport 2 or 3, which is what I would buy.
Things I dont like: steering is really heavy, it lacks about 50-80 hp over the 305 stock. Infotainment system needs a major upgrade.
German cars are way more fun to drive (M3, S4, RS5, C63 AMG, and so on)
I like the fact the is300/350 sits lower, it handles really nice, its planted. It has really nice features on the F sport 2 or 3, which is what I would buy.
Things I dont like: steering is really heavy, it lacks about 50-80 hp over the 305 stock. Infotainment system needs a major upgrade.
Things I dont like:
- steering is really heavy - To me the steering doesn't feel heavy at all, and with variable assist it really depends at what speed you're finding it heavy, but compared to my buddies 2020 M2 Competition, that car you can't feel anything from the steering...which I don't consider good at all!! I have no idea what the car is doing on the road, and that's at highway speed! I fear deviating from a straight line with that thing.
- it lacks about 50-80 hp over the 305 stock - the 300 is missing only 50 hp that the 350 has...a tune will fix that as you've been clearly researching. Without forced induction a tune can only do so much.
- Infotainment system needs a major upgrade - I've used the infotainment system in both newer BMW's and MB's, neither I find intuitive at all! The MB is the worst of the two...my GOD! My buddy with the M2 also has a MB GLE and eff me running if I could even figure out how to pair my phone with the car, much as less use the damn thing. I'm pretty tech savvy, hell I can build you a desktop computer from scratch, but hell to figure out that MB infotainment system. The BMW one is not that bad...with a little trial an error you can figure out the basic functions fairly easily. I think the key is to approach them first by throwing all logic out the window, then they become easier to use lol! No doubt the IS infotainment system is dated, no argument there, but OMG is it super easy to use. I could likely teach a 5 year old how to use it in 10 minutes...not because it's that simple, but because it's that easy. The MB system well surpasses my threshold for stupid.
It would have been nice if the IS system was touchscreen, like my Highlander...the Highlander is super easy to use also, but with the touchscreen it's so much faster...hands down.
08-16-20, 02:53 PM
#23
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German cars are way more fun to drive (M3, S4, RS5, C63 AMG, and so on) - Price-wise some of those cars you mention are way more than the IS...the C63 AMG is a V8 with over 400hp, no? Not sure if most of those are fair comparisons. Granted they are fun to drive...some of them.
Things I dont like:
- steering is really heavy - To me the steering doesn't feel heavy at all, and with variable assist it really depends at what speed you're finding it heavy, but compared to my buddies 2020 M2 Competition, that car you can't feel anything from the steering...which I don't consider good at all!! I have no idea what the car is doing on the road, and that's at highway speed! I fear deviating from a straight line with that thing.
- it lacks about 50-80 hp over the 305 stock - the 300 is missing only 50 hp that the 350 has...a tune will fix that as you've been clearly researching. Without forced induction a tune can only do so much.
- Infotainment system needs a major upgrade - I've used the infotainment system in both newer BMW's and MB's, neither I find intuitive at all! The MB is the worst of the two...my GOD! My buddy with the M2 also has a MB GLE and eff me running if I could even figure out how to pair my phone with the car, much as less use the damn thing. I'm pretty tech savvy, hell I can build you a desktop computer from scratch, but hell to figure out that MB infotainment system. The BMW one is not that bad...with a little trial an error you can figure out the basic functions fairly easily. I think the key is to approach them first by throwing all logic out the window, then they become easier to use lol! No doubt the IS infotainment system is dated, no argument there, but OMG is it super easy to use. I could likely teach a 5 year old how to use it in 10 minutes...not because it's that simple, but because it's that easy. The MB system well surpasses my threshold for stupid.
It would have been nice if the IS system was touchscreen, like my Highlander...the Highlander is super easy to use also, but with the touchscreen it's so much faster...hands down.
Things I dont like:
- steering is really heavy - To me the steering doesn't feel heavy at all, and with variable assist it really depends at what speed you're finding it heavy, but compared to my buddies 2020 M2 Competition, that car you can't feel anything from the steering...which I don't consider good at all!! I have no idea what the car is doing on the road, and that's at highway speed! I fear deviating from a straight line with that thing.
- it lacks about 50-80 hp over the 305 stock - the 300 is missing only 50 hp that the 350 has...a tune will fix that as you've been clearly researching. Without forced induction a tune can only do so much.
- Infotainment system needs a major upgrade - I've used the infotainment system in both newer BMW's and MB's, neither I find intuitive at all! The MB is the worst of the two...my GOD! My buddy with the M2 also has a MB GLE and eff me running if I could even figure out how to pair my phone with the car, much as less use the damn thing. I'm pretty tech savvy, hell I can build you a desktop computer from scratch, but hell to figure out that MB infotainment system. The BMW one is not that bad...with a little trial an error you can figure out the basic functions fairly easily. I think the key is to approach them first by throwing all logic out the window, then they become easier to use lol! No doubt the IS infotainment system is dated, no argument there, but OMG is it super easy to use. I could likely teach a 5 year old how to use it in 10 minutes...not because it's that simple, but because it's that easy. The MB system well surpasses my threshold for stupid.
It would have been nice if the IS system was touchscreen, like my Highlander...the Highlander is super easy to use also, but with the touchscreen it's so much faster...hands down.
I meant the steering while parking. When driving it's not bad. For a lady, the steering is pretty hard to turn.
For power, I was already comparing to an is350. I know it's not a GSF or ISF, but I think the is350/300 at 370-380hp would be a dream car. And the engine is solid.
I drove a 2020 legacy yesterday. The infotainment is finally up to date. So is noise cabin, as all subarus I drove in the past (2018 wrx, 2017 Impreza, etc) suffered from very high road noise. The legacy was the first quiet subaru I drove. It lacks a lot of power, but i think the GT should be much better with its turbo. The is350 is definitely more fun to drive in every way though.
If they update the infotainment, and add 70sh hp over the stock 350, u get a perfect car imo.
08-16-20, 04:08 PM
#24
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well the is350, f sport 3 brand new goes for $63k CAD I believe. A 2020 s4, goes for $75sh, and a bmw m340i for $75-80k. The m340i is a blast in every way (I drove the 2020), and the 2020 s4 is still fun, but both are surely more fun to drive than the is350. However, both will never be as reliable, not even by a stretch, to a lexus, period.
I meant the steering while parking. When driving it's not bad. For a lady, the steering is pretty hard to turn.
For power, I was already comparing to an is350. I know it's not a GSF or ISF, but I think the is350/300 at 370-380hp would be a dream car. And the engine is solid.
I drove a 2020 legacy yesterday. The infotainment is finally up to date. So is noise cabin, as all subarus I drove in the past (2018 wrx, 2017 Impreza, etc) suffered from very high road noise. The legacy was the first quiet subaru I drove. It lacks a lot of power, but i think the GT should be much better with its turbo. The is350 is definitely more fun to drive in every way though.
If they update the infotainment, and add 70sh hp over the stock 350, u get a perfect car imo.
I meant the steering while parking. When driving it's not bad. For a lady, the steering is pretty hard to turn.
For power, I was already comparing to an is350. I know it's not a GSF or ISF, but I think the is350/300 at 370-380hp would be a dream car. And the engine is solid.
I drove a 2020 legacy yesterday. The infotainment is finally up to date. So is noise cabin, as all subarus I drove in the past (2018 wrx, 2017 Impreza, etc) suffered from very high road noise. The legacy was the first quiet subaru I drove. It lacks a lot of power, but i think the GT should be much better with its turbo. The is350 is definitely more fun to drive in every way though.
If they update the infotainment, and add 70sh hp over the stock 350, u get a perfect car imo.
If the car actually turns out to be reliable it's only coincidence lol!! And a bonus for the owner.
They have really been getting better in the last few years, but it's so hard to shake a bad reputation once you have it.
The problem is parts aren't cheap, and most times OEM is the only option...so they make sure you pay on the front end and back end.
Not to mention they like to make everything proprietary...you gotta buy the parts from them and electronic parts need to be coded to the vehicle, and you can't use them in any other vehicle after that.
And you can't program them to the vehicle unless you have their factory tool. That's the kinda BS i don't agree with.
Currently the only things on an IS you can't reuse on another vehicle is the Smart Key and the Navi micro SD card...once they're programmed to a vehicle, you can't use them on another vehicle. Toyota is not doing it out of spite, it's just a security measure for the vehicle, with regards to the Smart key. With the Navi SD card I think it's a cost thing...which I also don't agree with since you could buy an entire Garman each year and still pocket $100 over buying an SD card each year from the dealer.
Now that they have moved to Apple Carplay, that issue has self resolved itself.
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Waffles17 (08-16-20)
08-17-20, 05:11 AM
#25
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I think you captured the point the Germans are trying to achieve...they openly admit to building cars that are fun to drive...reliability is not a priority.
If the car actually turns out to be reliable it's only coincidence lol!! And a bonus for the owner.
They have really been getting better in the last few years, but it's so hard to shake a bad reputation once you have it.
The problem is parts aren't cheap, and most times OEM is the only option...so they make sure you pay on the front end and back end.
Not to mention they like to make everything proprietary...you gotta buy the parts from them and electronic parts need to be coded to the vehicle, and you can't use them in any other vehicle after that.
And you can't program them to the vehicle unless you have their factory tool. That's the kinda BS i don't agree with.
Currently the only things on an IS you can't reuse on another vehicle is the Smart Key and the Navi micro SD card...once they're programmed to a vehicle, you can't use them on another vehicle. Toyota is not doing it out of spite, it's just a security measure for the vehicle, with regards to the Smart key. With the Navi SD card I think it's a cost thing...which I also don't agree with since you could buy an entire Garman each year and still pocket $100 over buying an SD card each year from the dealer.
Now that they have moved to Apple Carplay, that issue has self resolved itself.
If the car actually turns out to be reliable it's only coincidence lol!! And a bonus for the owner.
They have really been getting better in the last few years, but it's so hard to shake a bad reputation once you have it.
The problem is parts aren't cheap, and most times OEM is the only option...so they make sure you pay on the front end and back end.
Not to mention they like to make everything proprietary...you gotta buy the parts from them and electronic parts need to be coded to the vehicle, and you can't use them in any other vehicle after that.
And you can't program them to the vehicle unless you have their factory tool. That's the kinda BS i don't agree with.
Currently the only things on an IS you can't reuse on another vehicle is the Smart Key and the Navi micro SD card...once they're programmed to a vehicle, you can't use them on another vehicle. Toyota is not doing it out of spite, it's just a security measure for the vehicle, with regards to the Smart key. With the Navi SD card I think it's a cost thing...which I also don't agree with since you could buy an entire Garman each year and still pocket $100 over buying an SD card each year from the dealer.
Now that they have moved to Apple Carplay, that issue has self resolved itself.
Even the ones that are considered reliable, once they hit 80-100k km, it is literally guaranteed you will have a major issue here or there.
I check out the forums on the 2019+, history repeats itself: tranny issues (check amg), electronics issues, engine issues, turbo issues, drivetrain issues like differentials, and so on. These are less than a year old. Major turn off.
Parts are super expensive. But honestly, lexus parts ain't cheap, but they last. So there is that. The Japanese are very conservative. They build something solid, and they reuse it. They tweak only if needed. They learn from mistakes. If the germans build a solid car (and there are a few), they WILL mess it up on the next revision. Guaranteed.
So when u get in a car and u know its rock solid reliable, it's a big advantage.
08-17-20, 05:15 AM
#26
Driver
Thread Starter
Btw I was thinking to get an is300 and tune it to an is350. Problem is the RR racing tune for a 2017 will cost me $1500 (plus any import fee if any).
will see how much is the difference between a 2017 is300 and 350. If it's only 2k, I will get an is350, but if its say 3k, I will get the f sport 3 is 300 and tune it.
will see how much is the difference between a 2017 is300 and 350. If it's only 2k, I will get an is350, but if its say 3k, I will get the f sport 3 is 300 and tune it.
08-17-20, 05:35 AM
#27
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Btw I was thinking to get an is300 and tune it to an is350. Problem is the RR racing tune for a 2017 will cost me $1500 (plus any import fee if any).
will see how much is the difference between a 2017 is300 and 350. If it's only 2k, I will get an is350, but if its say 3k, I will get the f sport 3 is 300 and tune it.
will see how much is the difference between a 2017 is300 and 350. If it's only 2k, I will get an is350, but if its say 3k, I will get the f sport 3 is 300 and tune it.
Between the exchange rate and import fees it would cheaper to buy another cheap used car and drive the ECU directly to RR Racing and have them tune it, drive back, and then sell the car you bought LOL!
As ridiculous as that sounds, crunch the numbers...it's not so crazy!
Last edited by Sasnuke; 08-17-20 at 07:51 AM.
08-17-20, 06:56 AM
#28
Driver
Thread Starter
Unfortunately on this side of the border when you look at the tune, dollar per HP, it's though to justify getting it.
Between the exchange rate and import fees it would cheaper to buy another cheap used car and drive the ECU directly to RR Racing and have them tune it, drive back, and then sell the car you bought LOL!
As ridiculous as that sounds, crunch the numbers...it's not so crazy!
Between the exchange rate and import fees it would cheaper to buy another cheap used car and drive the ECU directly to RR Racing and have them tune it, drive back, and then sell the car you bought LOL!
As ridiculous as that sounds, crunch the numbers...it's not so crazy!
I need to be able to flash back to stock at any time, whether for warranty work, or if I encounter an issue, first things is always put it back to stock and see if the problem is related to the tune or stock.
Well i really hope i won't have to pay duty on 1050usd, because that would be, all things done, around $1800 cad ?
It would only make sense if the price difference between an is300 and is350 is well over $2500. At $2500 I won't bother, I would get the 350.
08-17-20, 08:46 AM
#29
well since I have not bought anything yet, at least I will take all that into consideration!
I need to be able to flash back to stock at any time, whether for warranty work, or if I encounter an issue, first things is always put it back to stock and see if the problem is related to the tune or stock.
Well i really hope i won't have to pay duty on 1050usd, because that would be, all things done, around $1800 cad ?
It would only make sense if the price difference between an is300 and is350 is well over $2500. At $2500 I won't bother, I would get the 350.
I need to be able to flash back to stock at any time, whether for warranty work, or if I encounter an issue, first things is always put it back to stock and see if the problem is related to the tune or stock.
Well i really hope i won't have to pay duty on 1050usd, because that would be, all things done, around $1800 cad ?
It would only make sense if the price difference between an is300 and is350 is well over $2500. At $2500 I won't bother, I would get the 350.
If you want the extra HP, just get the 350. You'll never even have to think about pulling out the tune if you have some problem later.
Is there some long term advantage of having a 300 vs a 350? E.g.: Are the recurring insurance rates that much different (due to HP to weight ratio, provided you don't inform your insurance agent of the tune)?
08-17-20, 09:49 AM
#30
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Thread Starter
I think you're wasting too many brain cells on this.
If you want the extra HP, just get the 350. You'll never even have to think about pulling out the tune if you have some problem later.
Is there some long term advantage of having a 300 vs a 350? E.g.: Are the recurring insurance rates that much different (due to HP to weight ratio, provided you don't inform your insurance agent of the tune)?
If you want the extra HP, just get the 350. You'll never even have to think about pulling out the tune if you have some problem later.
Is there some long term advantage of having a 300 vs a 350? E.g.: Are the recurring insurance rates that much different (due to HP to weight ratio, provided you don't inform your insurance agent of the tune)?
So I have seen anywhere from $2000 to about $8000 price difference between an is300 to an is350 within the same year (2017)
The newer the cars are, the less mileage, the more price gap would be. So if say the price difference is anything over $2500, then it's worth it to get an is300 and tune it to an is350 level (cost is say $2000 with duty fees). This is more and more true if the gap is say $4000-7000 for example.
Insurance wise, it might also be a tad cheaper on the is300, since it has less official hp, statistically people speed less with an is300, and so on.