Engine Hard Start | 3IS F Sport
09-03-20, 02:39 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Engine Hard Start | 3IS F Sport
I own a 2015 Lexus IS350 F Sport with a mileage of 95,00KM. It has been having hard starts since 2019. Kindly see this video for reference: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XMk...ew?usp=sharing
The dealer was unable to find the problem but I run into this everyday. The followings work has been done on the car:
1. Brand new battery was installed
2. The fuel pump was replaced
3. Fuel pressure regulator was replaced
4. Fuel Filter was replaced
The car had history of weak fuel delivery system but troublesome parts i.e. fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator was replaced. The fuel filter was also changed at 90K service. At the last service I requested diagnosis for the hard start but the dealer said they couldn't replicate the problem and therefore no action was taken. However, I have asked them to check the fuel pressure and the results were normal. The car drives normal with no other signs of trouble.
My warranty is expiring soon and I'm afraid the problem will be evident right after the expiration and costing me a fortune to fix.
Any help on this matter would be much appreciated.
The dealer was unable to find the problem but I run into this everyday. The followings work has been done on the car:
1. Brand new battery was installed
2. The fuel pump was replaced
3. Fuel pressure regulator was replaced
4. Fuel Filter was replaced
The car had history of weak fuel delivery system but troublesome parts i.e. fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator was replaced. The fuel filter was also changed at 90K service. At the last service I requested diagnosis for the hard start but the dealer said they couldn't replicate the problem and therefore no action was taken. However, I have asked them to check the fuel pressure and the results were normal. The car drives normal with no other signs of trouble.
My warranty is expiring soon and I'm afraid the problem will be evident right after the expiration and costing me a fortune to fix.
Any help on this matter would be much appreciated.
Last edited by sakibmd; 09-03-20 at 02:44 AM.
09-03-20, 05:56 AM
#2
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Welcome to the forum!
I had a look at the video, and it seems likes it's only cranking an extra couple times before starting.
While this may not be normal, it's so close to normal that finding an issue may be really hard.
Is there anything that happened in 2019 just before this started to happen?
Have you tried replacing the spark plugs? I know it's not due for plugs yet, but it's pretty easy to change or at least take them out to look at.
I had a look at the video, and it seems likes it's only cranking an extra couple times before starting.
While this may not be normal, it's so close to normal that finding an issue may be really hard.
Is there anything that happened in 2019 just before this started to happen?
Have you tried replacing the spark plugs? I know it's not due for plugs yet, but it's pretty easy to change or at least take them out to look at.
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sakibmd (09-04-20)
09-03-20, 08:33 AM
#3
Instructor
I own a 2015 Lexus IS350 F Sport with a mileage of 95,00KM. It has been having hard starts since 2019. Kindly see this video for reference: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XMk...ew?usp=sharing
The dealer was unable to find the problem but I run into this everyday. The followings work has been done on the car:
1. Brand new battery was installed
2. The fuel pump was replaced
3. Fuel pressure regulator was replaced
4. Fuel Filter was replaced
The car had history of weak fuel delivery system but troublesome parts i.e. fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator was replaced. The fuel filter was also changed at 90K service. At the last service I requested diagnosis for the hard start but the dealer said they couldn't replicate the problem and therefore no action was taken. However, I have asked them to check the fuel pressure and the results were normal. The car drives normal with no other signs of trouble.
My warranty is expiring soon and I'm afraid the problem will be evident right after the expiration and costing me a fortune to fix.
Any help on this matter would be much appreciated.
The dealer was unable to find the problem but I run into this everyday. The followings work has been done on the car:
1. Brand new battery was installed
2. The fuel pump was replaced
3. Fuel pressure regulator was replaced
4. Fuel Filter was replaced
The car had history of weak fuel delivery system but troublesome parts i.e. fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator was replaced. The fuel filter was also changed at 90K service. At the last service I requested diagnosis for the hard start but the dealer said they couldn't replicate the problem and therefore no action was taken. However, I have asked them to check the fuel pressure and the results were normal. The car drives normal with no other signs of trouble.
My warranty is expiring soon and I'm afraid the problem will be evident right after the expiration and costing me a fortune to fix.
Any help on this matter would be much appreciated.
09-03-20, 04:21 PM
#4
Do these cars prime the fuel pump, when u open the driver door for example, and before you start the car?
It sounds like the fuel pressure is not good enough when u start. I would suggest to have an indy shop to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, let it sit overnight, start it up in the morning and measure how much actual fuel pressure they are getting, and go from there. The car is cranking longer because it does not have enough fuel pressure (could be due to many things) to start.
To know for sure: once its started, let it run for a good 5-10 min, and shut it off again. Start the car: does it crank for a while, or it start RIGHT away? Thats how you would know if there is a fuel pressure issue or not. If it take longer everytime u start it, then its not a fuel pressure issue.
It sounds like the fuel pressure is not good enough when u start. I would suggest to have an indy shop to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, let it sit overnight, start it up in the morning and measure how much actual fuel pressure they are getting, and go from there. The car is cranking longer because it does not have enough fuel pressure (could be due to many things) to start.
To know for sure: once its started, let it run for a good 5-10 min, and shut it off again. Start the car: does it crank for a while, or it start RIGHT away? Thats how you would know if there is a fuel pressure issue or not. If it take longer everytime u start it, then its not a fuel pressure issue.
09-03-20, 04:53 PM
#5
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Do these cars prime the fuel pump, when u open the driver door for example, and before you start the car?
It sounds like the fuel pressure is not good enough when u start. I would suggest to have an indy shop to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, let it sit overnight, start it up in the morning and measure how much actual fuel pressure they are getting, and go from there. The car is cranking longer because it does not have enough fuel pressure (could be due to many things) to start.
To know for sure: once its started, let it run for a good 5-10 min, and shut it off again. Start the car: does it crank for a while, or it start RIGHT away? Thats how you would know if there is a fuel pressure issue or not. If it take longer everytime u start it, then its not a fuel pressure issue.
It sounds like the fuel pressure is not good enough when u start. I would suggest to have an indy shop to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, let it sit overnight, start it up in the morning and measure how much actual fuel pressure they are getting, and go from there. The car is cranking longer because it does not have enough fuel pressure (could be due to many things) to start.
To know for sure: once its started, let it run for a good 5-10 min, and shut it off again. Start the car: does it crank for a while, or it start RIGHT away? Thats how you would know if there is a fuel pressure issue or not. If it take longer everytime u start it, then its not a fuel pressure issue.
It sounds like the fuel pressure is not good enough when u start. I was thinking this as well...but there's some obvious reasons that pretty much rule it out. If the pressure was dropping, then you have three possibilities: leaking injector(s), leak in fuel line, leak in the tank.
Leaking injectors would cause excessive cranking, black smoke out the tailpipe on startup, and a rough idle that would be noticeable...OP didn't mention any of those symptoms, other than the excessive cranking.
Leak in the lines would cause excessive cranking and a rough idle that would be noticeable...OP didn't mention any of those symptoms, other than the excessive cranking. Not to mention the obvious smell of gas just even walking up to the car.
Leak in the tank...this would be the only possibility that would cause excessive cranking and a rough idle that would be noticeable but no black smoke out the tailpipe or smell of gas. However, the dealer has replaced the pump, filter, and regulator...so the chances of one of the new parts being defective as well as one of the old parts is pretty slim. All three pieces are within the fuel pump assembly...so it's easy to change all three at once.
I would suggest to have an indy shop to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, let it sit overnight, start it up in the morning and measure how much actual fuel pressure they are getting, and go from there. Despite what I wrote above, I still think this is a good idea...I wouldn't believe the fuel pressure was ok unless I could see it for myself. Doesn't sound like the OP is in the US though, but anyone with a gauge can perform the test.
To know for sure: once its started, let it run for a good 5-10 min, and shut it off again. Start the car: does it crank for a while, or it start RIGHT away? Thats how you would know if there is a fuel pressure issue or not. If it take longer everytime u start it, then its not a fuel pressure issue. It's a valid check in lieu of having a gauge on hand.
I was thinking the plugs may have been fouled, maybe from a bad batch of gas or something of the like. This would explain the cranking outside of a possible fuel issue.
On the 350 it's not hard to pull a plug on either side, especially the passenger side.
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sakibmd (09-04-20)
09-03-20, 05:47 PM
#6
^^ Am not sure about Toyota or Japanese engines in general, but on most german Direct Injection engines, you have the high pressure fuel pump, and the "low" pressure fuel pump (on top of the gas tank). After letting the car sit for about 2 to 4 hours (depending on ambient temps), the fuel pressure in the fuel rail drops, significantly. Thats why many german cars would prime the fuel system when u open the door, so that the fuel rail pressure goes up from lets say 2 bars to 5 bars (as an example). At 5 bars, the injectors and the HPFP can operate normally, and the car cranks and starts right away.
Plugs could indeed be an issue...BUT: if he starts the car, let it run for a while, and shut it off, and then it starts right away, to me its more like a fuel pressure issue than a plug issue, but I could always be wrong
You would think after a year the CEL would tell you the plug is misfiring...
Alternatively, he can actually log misfires before and after starting the car (a bad or fooled plug will misfire for sure). He can even probably monitor the rail fuel pressure before starting the car.
Plugs could indeed be an issue...BUT: if he starts the car, let it run for a while, and shut it off, and then it starts right away, to me its more like a fuel pressure issue than a plug issue, but I could always be wrong
You would think after a year the CEL would tell you the plug is misfiring...Alternatively, he can actually log misfires before and after starting the car (a bad or fooled plug will misfire for sure). He can even probably monitor the rail fuel pressure before starting the car.
09-03-20, 06:28 PM
#7
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^^ Am not sure about Toyota or Japanese engines in general, but on most german Direct Injection engines, you have the high pressure fuel pump, and the "low" pressure fuel pump (on top of the gas tank). After letting the car sit for about 2 to 4 hours (depending on ambient temps), the fuel pressure in the fuel rail drops, significantly. Thats why many german cars would prime the fuel system when u open the door, so that the fuel rail pressure goes up from lets say 2 bars to 5 bars (as an example). At 5 bars, the injectors and the HPFP can operate normally, and the car cranks and starts right away.
Plugs could indeed be an issue...BUT: if he starts the car, let it run for a while, and shut it off, and then it starts right away, to me its more like a fuel pressure issue than a plug issue, but I could always be wrong You would think after a year the CEL would tell you the plug is misfiring...
Alternatively, he can actually log misfires before and after starting the car (a bad or fooled plug will misfire for sure). He can even probably monitor the rail fuel pressure before starting the car.
Plugs could indeed be an issue...BUT: if he starts the car, let it run for a while, and shut it off, and then it starts right away, to me its more like a fuel pressure issue than a plug issue, but I could always be wrong
You would think after a year the CEL would tell you the plug is misfiring...Alternatively, he can actually log misfires before and after starting the car (a bad or fooled plug will misfire for sure). He can even probably monitor the rail fuel pressure before starting the car.
The High pressure pump runs of a cam on the passenger cylinder head, but it would be easy enough to measure the pressure at the firewall on the driver's side for the port injection.
Generally it should be around 3.3 bar (approx. 50 PSI). Even if it did drop slightly, it still wouldn't cause the extra crank...it would have to drop to less than 2 bar...at least on these cars.
With regards to the misfire, it would have to be enough for the ECU to trigger the light...a very slight stumble at idle isn't going to be enough. However the OP hasn't mentioned any idling issues, so we can only assume the vehicle starts (for as long as that takes) and runs smooth. In the video the vehicle seemed to idle perfectly fine after it started...and it was 40C outside, so definitely plenty hot.
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09-03-20, 06:34 PM
#8
The low pressure pumps on the Toyotas is submerged in the tank along with the filter and regulator. Since it was stated the dealer replaced all three, we can only assume it was done.
The High pressure pump runs of a cam on the passenger cylinder head, but it would be easy enough to measure the pressure at the firewall on the driver's side for the port injection.
Generally it should be around 3.3 bar (approx. 50 PSI). Even if it did drop slightly, it still wouldn't cause the extra crank...it would have to drop to less than 2 bar...at least on these cars.
With regards to the misfire, it would have to be enough for the ECU to trigger the light...a very slight stumble at idle isn't going to be enough. However the OP hasn't mentioned any idling issues, so we can only assume the vehicle starts (for as long as that takes) and runs smooth. In the video the vehicle seemed to idle perfectly fine after it started...and it was 40C outside, so definitely plenty hot.
The High pressure pump runs of a cam on the passenger cylinder head, but it would be easy enough to measure the pressure at the firewall on the driver's side for the port injection.
Generally it should be around 3.3 bar (approx. 50 PSI). Even if it did drop slightly, it still wouldn't cause the extra crank...it would have to drop to less than 2 bar...at least on these cars.
With regards to the misfire, it would have to be enough for the ECU to trigger the light...a very slight stumble at idle isn't going to be enough. However the OP hasn't mentioned any idling issues, so we can only assume the vehicle starts (for as long as that takes) and runs smooth. In the video the vehicle seemed to idle perfectly fine after it started...and it was 40C outside, so definitely plenty hot.
You think these cars will hold 4-5 bars of fuel pressure about sitting idle for lets say 24-48 hours?
Yes exactly, therefore, the faster the cam, the faster the HPFP will turn, the rest is controlled by the injectors/ECU.
09-03-20, 06:50 PM
#9
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Yes, but if he monitors the misfires (through ODB port / software), he can tell if he sees for example 4 or 10 misfires on a certain cylinder.
You think these cars will hold 4-5 bars of fuel pressure about sitting idle for lets say 24-48 hours?
Yes exactly, therefore, the faster the cam, the faster the HPFP will turn, the rest is controlled by the injectors/ECU.
You think these cars will hold 4-5 bars of fuel pressure about sitting idle for lets say 24-48 hours?
Yes exactly, therefore, the faster the cam, the faster the HPFP will turn, the rest is controlled by the injectors/ECU.
I'm sure other manufacturers run that much pressure, but not Toyota.
I've left my 2014 Highlander parked at the airport for 2 weeks and when I returned it started like if I had just shut it off after 5 minutes of running. Didn't even flinch to start...and no extra cranking.
Quite often my Highlander or IS250 sit for several days without being driven, and neither give any issue to start or long crank. I've owned so many Toyotas and they're all been like that...maybe I'm spoiled that way.
For an IS350, standard fuel pressure when idling (port injection) is 28 to 85 PSI. Realistically it won't be much higher or lower than 50 PSI. They only specify 85PSI as the top end because if the pressure goes over that then you have an issue with the regulator for sure.
After shutoff, fuel pressure should be 21 PSI or more within 5 minutes...anything less and you got problems somewhere.
09-04-20, 04:01 AM
#10
10th Gear
Thread Starter
Dear Sasnuke,
Thanks for your prompt response. I don't recall any incident leading to this hard start. All I remember is it started off as an occasional long crank once or twice a month. Then the frequency of it increased gradually and now its everyday. Last night the the car cranked for 7-8 times before the car started.
However, I started having this problem few weeks after hooking up 'ZUS Smart Car Monitor'. I do not use it anymore, but do you think it has something to do with it? Moreover, I have read somewhere that the theft sensor could be the culprit. I have been keeping it turned off for about a week now and observing if I see any difference. If I turn off the sensor before starting so far it seems the hard start doesn't occur. But i'm still observing it. Is the red lock sign supposed to blink after unlocking the car? I just noticed that it still blinks after I unlock the car and sit inside. It only stops blinking when I start the car. Is this normal?
I will check the spark plugs next soon and see if that makes any difference.
I really appreciate your help on this.
Thank you!
Thanks for your prompt response. I don't recall any incident leading to this hard start. All I remember is it started off as an occasional long crank once or twice a month. Then the frequency of it increased gradually and now its everyday. Last night the the car cranked for 7-8 times before the car started.
However, I started having this problem few weeks after hooking up 'ZUS Smart Car Monitor'. I do not use it anymore, but do you think it has something to do with it? Moreover, I have read somewhere that the theft sensor could be the culprit. I have been keeping it turned off for about a week now and observing if I see any difference. If I turn off the sensor before starting so far it seems the hard start doesn't occur. But i'm still observing it. Is the red lock sign supposed to blink after unlocking the car? I just noticed that it still blinks after I unlock the car and sit inside. It only stops blinking when I start the car. Is this normal?
I will check the spark plugs next soon and see if that makes any difference.
I really appreciate your help on this.
Thank you!
Last edited by sakibmd; 09-04-20 at 04:55 AM.
09-04-20, 04:02 AM
#11
10th Gear
Thread Starter
09-04-20, 04:07 AM
#12
10th Gear
Thread Starter
Hey there,
I did a comprehensive fuel delivery system diagnosis. Thats how the faulty fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator was caught. After replacing them the problem still persists. Last month I have asked checked for the fuel pressure again and the gauge reading was normal all the way through in different conditions (esp. morning readings). Therefore, I can confidently say the fuel delivery system is definitely not the problem.
I did a comprehensive fuel delivery system diagnosis. Thats how the faulty fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator was caught. After replacing them the problem still persists. Last month I have asked checked for the fuel pressure again and the gauge reading was normal all the way through in different conditions (esp. morning readings). Therefore, I can confidently say the fuel delivery system is definitely not the problem.
Last edited by sakibmd; 09-04-20 at 04:13 AM.
09-04-20, 04:28 AM
#13
10th Gear
Thread Starter
Do these cars prime the fuel pump, when u open the driver door for example, and before you start the car? No...the system relies on the pressure within it for the next startup. Realistically when you shut off the engine all the injectors close and the fuel pump stops...there is no where for the fuel or pressure to go.
It sounds like the fuel pressure is not good enough when u start. I was thinking this as well...but there's some obvious reasons that pretty much rule it out. If the pressure was dropping, then you have three possibilities: leaking injector(s), leak in fuel line, leak in the tank.
Leaking injectors would cause excessive cranking, black smoke out the tailpipe on startup, and a rough idle that would be noticeable...OP didn't mention any of those symptoms, other than the excessive cranking.
Leak in the lines would cause excessive cranking and a rough idle that would be noticeable...OP didn't mention any of those symptoms, other than the excessive cranking. Not to mention the obvious smell of gas just even walking up to the car.
Leak in the tank...this would be the only possibility that would cause excessive cranking and a rough idle that would be noticeable but no black smoke out the tailpipe or smell of gas. However, the dealer has replaced the pump, filter, and regulator...so the chances of one of the new parts being defective as well as one of the old parts is pretty slim. All three pieces are within the fuel pump assembly...so it's easy to change all three at once.
I would suggest to have an indy shop to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, let it sit overnight, start it up in the morning and measure how much actual fuel pressure they are getting, and go from there. Despite what I wrote above, I still think this is a good idea...I wouldn't believe the fuel pressure was ok unless I could see it for myself. Doesn't sound like the OP is in the US though, but anyone with a gauge can perform the test.
To know for sure: once its started, let it run for a good 5-10 min, and shut it off again. Start the car: does it crank for a while, or it start RIGHT away? Thats how you would know if there is a fuel pressure issue or not. If it take longer everytime u start it, then its not a fuel pressure issue. It's a valid check in lieu of having a gauge on hand.
I was thinking the plugs may have been fouled, maybe from a bad batch of gas or something of the like. This would explain the cranking outside of a possible fuel issue.
On the 350 it's not hard to pull a plug on either side, especially the passenger side.
It sounds like the fuel pressure is not good enough when u start. I was thinking this as well...but there's some obvious reasons that pretty much rule it out. If the pressure was dropping, then you have three possibilities: leaking injector(s), leak in fuel line, leak in the tank.
Leaking injectors would cause excessive cranking, black smoke out the tailpipe on startup, and a rough idle that would be noticeable...OP didn't mention any of those symptoms, other than the excessive cranking.
Leak in the lines would cause excessive cranking and a rough idle that would be noticeable...OP didn't mention any of those symptoms, other than the excessive cranking. Not to mention the obvious smell of gas just even walking up to the car.
Leak in the tank...this would be the only possibility that would cause excessive cranking and a rough idle that would be noticeable but no black smoke out the tailpipe or smell of gas. However, the dealer has replaced the pump, filter, and regulator...so the chances of one of the new parts being defective as well as one of the old parts is pretty slim. All three pieces are within the fuel pump assembly...so it's easy to change all three at once.
I would suggest to have an indy shop to hook up a fuel pressure gauge, let it sit overnight, start it up in the morning and measure how much actual fuel pressure they are getting, and go from there. Despite what I wrote above, I still think this is a good idea...I wouldn't believe the fuel pressure was ok unless I could see it for myself. Doesn't sound like the OP is in the US though, but anyone with a gauge can perform the test.
To know for sure: once its started, let it run for a good 5-10 min, and shut it off again. Start the car: does it crank for a while, or it start RIGHT away? Thats how you would know if there is a fuel pressure issue or not. If it take longer everytime u start it, then its not a fuel pressure issue. It's a valid check in lieu of having a gauge on hand.
I was thinking the plugs may have been fouled, maybe from a bad batch of gas or something of the like. This would explain the cranking outside of a possible fuel issue.
On the 350 it's not hard to pull a plug on either side, especially the passenger side.
e.g.
1. mild jack hammer like knocking sound coming from the back of the driver seat (where the fuel pump is located)
2. the car would stall at high speed on low fuel
3. The performance of the car was compromised too
4. The long crank was there only when the tank had fuel below half of the capacity. Less fuel more symptoms
The problem was easily diagnosed by checking the fuel pressure and therefore all the problematic parts were replaced.
09-04-20, 06:34 AM
#14
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Dear Sasnuke,
Thanks for your prompt response. I don't recall any incident leading to this hard start. All I remember is it started off as an occasional long crank once or twice a month. Then the frequency of it increased gradually and now its everyday. Last night the the car cranked for 7-8 times before the car started.
However, I started having this problem few weeks after hooking up 'ZUS Smart Car Monitor'. I do not use it anymore, but do you think it has something to do with it? Moreover, I have read somewhere that the theft sensor could be the culprit. I have been keeping it turned off for about a week now and observing if I see any difference. If I turn off the sensor before starting so far it seems the hard start doesn't occur. But i'm still observing it. Is the red lock sign supposed to blink after unlocking the car? I just noticed that it still blinks after I unlock the car and sit inside. It only stops blinking when I start the car. Is this normal?
I will check the spark plugs next soon and see if that makes any difference.
I really appreciate your help on this.
Thank you!
Thanks for your prompt response. I don't recall any incident leading to this hard start. All I remember is it started off as an occasional long crank once or twice a month. Then the frequency of it increased gradually and now its everyday. Last night the the car cranked for 7-8 times before the car started.
However, I started having this problem few weeks after hooking up 'ZUS Smart Car Monitor'. I do not use it anymore, but do you think it has something to do with it? Moreover, I have read somewhere that the theft sensor could be the culprit. I have been keeping it turned off for about a week now and observing if I see any difference. If I turn off the sensor before starting so far it seems the hard start doesn't occur. But i'm still observing it. Is the red lock sign supposed to blink after unlocking the car? I just noticed that it still blinks after I unlock the car and sit inside. It only stops blinking when I start the car. Is this normal?
I will check the spark plugs next soon and see if that makes any difference.
I really appreciate your help on this.
Thank you!
I'm puzzled as to why the Theft Deterrent System would cause the long crank. If the vehicle recognized the key to let you into the vehicle (unlock the doors), then it should let you start the car as normal.
Any chance the key battery might be getting low and causing an issue?
The ZUS device should not have caused an issue...and you have removed it anyways.
Any other aftermarket devices on the vehicle?
09-04-20, 08:23 AM
#15
10th Gear
Thread Starter
The red light is supposed to go out when you start the car, so it would appear to be working normally.
I'm puzzled as to why the Theft Deterrent System would cause the long crank. If the vehicle recognized the key to let you into the vehicle (unlock the doors), then it should let you start the car as normal.
Any chance the key battery might be getting low and causing an issue?
The ZUS device should not have caused an issue...and you have removed it anyways.
Any other aftermarket devices on the vehicle?
I'm puzzled as to why the Theft Deterrent System would cause the long crank. If the vehicle recognized the key to let you into the vehicle (unlock the doors), then it should let you start the car as normal.
Any chance the key battery might be getting low and causing an issue?
The ZUS device should not have caused an issue...and you have removed it anyways.
Any other aftermarket devices on the vehicle?
The car is completely stock. Nothing has been changed in the car since I bought it from the showroom.
I use this new OEM Lexus injector cleaner every 10K and when the car had bad fuel pump the symptoms got worse. So in a way that helped me diagnose the problem easily. But I have noticed now that whenever the car is on the injector cleaner, the hard start become more frequent. Do you think it points to injector issues?
I opened the hood up the other day to hear the clicking of the injectors. From the click it seemed the injectors are fine. Moreover, there are no funny smell, no engine hesitation and idling is perfect. The car runs nearly perfect. Just this hard start that keeps me worried because the dealers here are thieves.
What do you think? I can only be sure by having the injector and spark plugs checked.