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Man alive! You've just asked a simple question with an incredibly complex answer. That always starts all kinds of arguments on some forums. Flush wheel fitment will require fender rolling so if you aren't willing to modify your front and rear fenders, stop now. You should go to your local wheel shop and talk to them about how you want the car to look They typically can set you up and roll your fenders right there. TE 37s are pesky in a since you have to order them and wait for delivery, sometimes for months! I've had much better luck buying Advan Wheels over Rays, but both are top tier and I have TE 37s on my S2000, Advans on the IS350.
You can also search for information on fitmentindustries website.
Here is a relatively safe range of fitments
FRONT SIZES: 18" to 19"Width: 8"Offset: 40mm to 45mm
REAR SIZES: 18" to 19"Width: 9"Offset: 40mm to 50mm
If you are putting on wheels then you have to drop the car on springs or coil-overs. Otherwise you will never achieve the look in the picture. Since that fitment in your picture is flush you have to accept that if you want it you will have to roll your fenders. You cannot fit wheels flush on the IS 350 unless you roll your fenders. It's an easy enough process with the right tool..
Man alive! You've just asked a simple question with an incredibly complex answer. That always starts all kinds of arguments on some forums. Flush wheel fitment will require fender rolling so if you aren't willing to modify your front and rear fenders, stop now. You should go to your local wheel shop and talk to them about how you want the car to look They typically can set you up and roll your fenders right there. TE 37s are pesky in a since you have to order them and wait for delivery, sometimes for months! I've had much better luck buying Advan Wheels over Rays, but both are top tier and I have TE 37s on my S2000, Advans on the IS350.
You can also search for information on fitmentindustries website.
Here is a relatively safe range of fitments
FRONT SIZES: 18" to 19"Width: 8"Offset: 40mm to 45mm
REAR SIZES: 18" to 19"Width: 9"Offset: 40mm to 50mm
If you are putting on wheels then you have to drop the car on springs or coil-overs. Otherwise you will never achieve the look in the picture. Since that fitment in your picture is flush you have to accept that if you want it you will have to roll your fenders. You cannot fit wheels flush on the IS 350 unless you roll your fenders. It's an easy enough process with the right tool..
Thanks, i've decided on dropping on rsr downs and i'll be getting 18x8.5 +35 and 18x9.5 +40
...Flush wheel fitment will require fender rolling so if you aren't willing to modify your front and rear fenders, stop now...
...Since that fitment in your picture is flush you have to accept that if you want it you will have to roll your fenders. You cannot fit wheels flush on the IS 350 unless you roll your fenders...
@manchild You mentioned the information above throughout your post...I'm a little curious as to how you came by this.
As an FYI for anyone reading the thread...3IS rear quarters are factory rolled...there is literally nothing left to roll. The sheet metal is doubled over on itself flat and sealed.
Seeing is believing of course...go and grab the lip of the rear quarter...
The spokes on TE37 typically look a bit thinner in thickness as they approach the barrel, Text should be visible on the barrel between the spokes and (last time i checked) SL's don't accept any center caps because they're "Super Laps" meant for racing.
So having that said, who knows what the color is. You'd have to find out who the actually manufacturer of the wheel is and find out what colors are offered.
The spokes on TE37 typically look a bit thinner in thickness as they approach the barrel, Text should be visible on the barrel between the spokes and (last time i checked) SL's don't accept any center caps because they're "Super Laps" meant for racing.
So having that said, who knows what the color is. You'd have to find out who the actually manufacturer of the wheel is and find out what colors are offered.
I was actually thinking the same thing when I saw the pics.
But after looking at the Rays website, I think they are real.
A couple reasons I say that:
On the Rays website the spoke sticker (large red one) is tapered in the same manner
The red barrel sticker, which you can barely see in the first pic at the bottom of the rear wheel, is consistent with the barrel sticker that can be obtained for the rim
The TE37 comes is a variety of flavors including the large hub bore, but this specific model has the smaller hub bore and there is an optional centercap that can be ordered in the rim color
If they are fake, then they are really good copies right down to the stickers...but honestly I think they are real.
I was actually thinking the same thing when I saw the pics.
But after looking at the Rays website, I think they are real.
A couple reasons I say that:
On the Rays website the spoke sticker (large red one) is tapered in the same manner
The red barrel sticker, which you can barely see in the first pic at the bottom of the rear wheel, is consistent with the barrel sticker that can be obtained for the rim
The TE37 comes is a variety of flavors including the large hub bore, but this specific model has the smaller hub bore and there is an optional centercap that can be ordered in the rim color
If they are fake, then they are really good copies right down to the stickers...but honestly I think they are real.
I still believe they are replicas.
1. When i talk about the "thickness" of the spoke, i mean the literal thickness (depth), not the width. Real TE37 always are thicker towards the hub and thinner as the spoke approaches the barrel (remember thickness, not width). The spokes are thinnest at the point where the width also tapers the most (right at the 45-90* angle). It's a very common rep TE37 feature for the spoke thickness to be uniform throughout the spoke and not a thin as real TE37 because they're usually cast and will break if they get that thin.
2. Authentic SL stickers are available for purchase separately and some rep SL even include rep SL stickers.
3. The inner lip/barrel should have text between the spokes if it's a real SL. Although the photo isn't close up, the reflection of light on the inner lip shows no text. OG TE37 from back in the day had little to no text ....so i guess these could be OG TE37, but unlikely for reason #1 above.
Example of how easy it is to see the text on the inner lip due to reflections:
18" Spoke shapes from Volk's website:
Anyway, since the width, offset and tire size will be pretty much impossible to guess from these pictures, we can just guess on the color. I doubt it's any of the "pressed" colors as they are usually two-tone with the lip and center hub area being a lighter color almost like a machined finish but with a tinted clear coat. Since this wheel looks like it's one color-glossy finish, i'd guess something like Diamond Black, Gloss Black or some type of dark gunmetal color.
Some Russian dude. He tags his photos with #cheater_pro which seems to be a wheel refinishing company...so i think the answer is it's a custom color haha. Maybe you can DM him and ask him the wheel specs and colors....if he speaks english. I can't read Russian so I have no clue.
Now, my question is what tire size do I get? I will keep my stock wheels for winter and I am not sure if I should get All Seasons for this too anyway, since I live in New England.
I am not an aggressive driver or anything. I don't think summer performance tires will make any difference for me. Or would it? Does it matter?
I want the "thicker" tire look. I think people refer to it as "meaty" ? I like how in the photo I posted of the MV Tuning one, it looks pretty meaty. I was thinking of going with Michelin AS4's.
Now, my question is what tire size do I get? I will keep my stock wheels for winter and I am not sure if I should get All Seasons for this too anyway, since I live in New England.
I am not an aggressive driver or anything. I don't think summer performance tires will make any difference for me. Or would it? Does it matter?
I want the "thicker" tire look. I think people refer to it as "meaty" ? I like how in the photo I posted of the MV Tuning one, it looks pretty meaty. I was thinking of going with Michelin AS4's.
You may or may not have difficulty getting a 225/40r18 or 235/40r18 for the fronts - I couldn't get tires in either size for months and ended up buying new wheels so I could go with a square setup as the rear size was available.
I'm running 18x9 +35 with a 255/35R18 General G-Max RS (High performance summer) all around. I too live in New England (CT) I have a RWD IS350 F-sport, but I like to have fun on back roads.
for what it's worth, I have a separate winter setup (2is 17x8 with 225/45r17 snow tires).
When you say "thicker" tire look, do you mean sidewall height or tread width?
Considering you're planning or have installed RSR downs (I'm on stock suspension currently)
FRONT:
a 255/35r18 should fit if you are looking for wider tires.
a 235/40/r18 will fit if you are looking for more sidewall.
a 245/40r18 may or may not fit, need to measure clearances as it's more sidewall height.
BACK:
A 265/35r18 should fit, I'd be comfortable with a 275/35r18 as well; any wider and your tires will be getting closer to the suspension than the wheels are, so measure clearances.
Summer vs. All Season - depends on how you drive. I prefer a HP Summer and a dedicated winter, but I drive a certain way (see also: fun on backroads). All seasons tend to last longer, do the cost benefit for yourself. For me, HP summers are worth it - I'm running an open diff RWD car, so sticky 255's help out a lot off the line, I will be installing a diff in the near future, but for now tires are the answer. The sticky wider fronts (vs. factory) minimize understeer (these cars are slightly nose heavy).
Fresh all seasons, especially fresh wider all seasons are going to feel better/handle better than the stock all seasons, coupled with the fact that you are pushing your track width out 5mm at each corner, if you're comfortable with how it handles already, a new set of All seasons will do you fine (unless you have a RWD F-sport model, in which case it comes with HP Summers from the factory, and you should upgrade in kind to appreciate it).
hope that was helpful; also if you want to estimate fitment information by the numbers, try this website: wheel-size.com
I am in no way affiliated with them, but it's a good tool for wheel & tire size comparisons.
Also, you'll want to look into semi-rigid mudguards... it's paving season and I feel bad for my paint, sooo much stuff getting kicked up at it...
11-01-20, 02:21 PM
Any wheel experts out there?" Help with identifying and fitment of TE37SL
