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I'm not sure if the IS 350 uses conical lug nuts, but make sure you are installing your wheels with one of the standard 60 degree conical nuts. If you first tighten them slowly by hand in a typical criss-cross sequence before torquing them down, they will self-align the wheel.
That should work, as it has the necessary 60 degree conical seat.
It should, but apparently not the case. Now that I've googled around this particular brand, it seems I'm not the only one that's had vibration issues with these.
I understand McGard still makes quality lug nuts. Was there a reason you were supplied with extended length nuts below the cone, like a deeper mounting hole on the Motegi wheels? The nuts I use with the Weld Wheels have a simple cone at the base, like the diagram I attached. You can feel the wheel centering itself as you hand tighten the nuts.
Ditch those nuts and get proper ones.
Those nuts should only be used in specific scenarios, and I doubt some Motegi rims warrant them.
They could actually be the reason you have the vibration.
The extra length of shoulder under the cone could be contacting the brake rotor before the cone actually clamps down on the rim...essentially the nuts are tight, but the rim is loose.
If you were running a small spacer, like 3 or 5mm, then I could see a use for those nuts, but even then that's a stretch.
Ditch those nuts and get proper ones.
Those nuts should only be used in specific scenarios, and I doubt some Motegi rims warrant them.
They could actually be the reason you have the vibration.
The extra length of shoulder under the cone could be contacting the brake rotor before the cone actually clamps down on the rim...essentially the nuts are tight, but the rim is loose.
If you were running a small spacer, like 3 or 5mm, then I could see a use for those nuts, but even then that's a stretch.
Interesting. I was supplied these bolts not once, but twice. So it was not on accident.
When you say brake rotor, did you mean wheel hub?
Regarding your theory, it's funny because honestly that's what it really feels like. All four wheels just feel like they are ever so slightly loose. Being on the second set of tires, all checked for out-of-roundness, as well as the wheels having been checked for the same, this has been the only conclusion I could draw. Especially when you factor in the obvious, that I experience nowhere near the same issue with the Lexus wheels (as in, not at all).
If this were in fact the case, would you be able to tell through forensic analysis of the wheel mounting surface? Perhaps friction marks, or black spots from said friction and heat generation?
Edit: Forgive my ignorance, but can you point me to a suitable replacement? Or at least how to go about finding one?
I was supplied these bolts not once, but twice. So it was not on accident.
When you say brake rotor, did you mean wheel hub?
No, I mean the brake rotor. Technically the hub is under the hat of the brake rotor...so really the only thing that contacts the hub is the rotor.
I realize in casual conversation we say hub, but in this case the rotor is between the hub and rim. The center portion where you put the hub spacer ring...that ring is actually sitting on the hub, as that snout of the hub is protruding the rotor.
There are actually vehicles that the brake rotor is behind the hub, i.e. the very old 4Runner, in which case when you mount the wheel on the vehicle it's literally sitting on the hub.
I understand McGard still makes quality lug nuts. Was there a reason you were supplied with extended length nuts below the cone, like a deeper mounting hole on the Motegi wheels? The nuts I use with the Weld Wheels have a simple cone at the base, like the diagram I attached. You can feel the wheel centering itself as you hand tighten the nuts.
I've raised the issue repeatedly. I was assured all the hardware, both the lug nuts and hub centering ring, were the appropriate fit.
No, I mean the brake rotor. Technically the hub is under the hat of the brake rotor...so really the only thing that contacts the hub is the rotor.
I realize in casual conversation we say hub, but in this case the rotor is between the hub and rim. The center portion where you put the hub spacer ring...that ring is actually sitting on the hub, as that snout of the hub is protruding the rotor.
There are actually vehicles that the brake rotor is behind the hub, i.e. the very old 4Runner, in which case when you mount the wheel on the vehicle it's literally sitting on the hub.
Oh, right. My mistake. Was having a hard time visualizing it. Still having my coffee!
I've raised the issue repeatedly. I was assured all the hardware, both the lug nuts and hub centering ring, were the appropriate fit.
One way you can tell if the nuts are too long...take one Motegi rim (off the the wheel) and put the nut in the hole as if it was installed on the vehicle.
While pushing the nut in securely with one hand (finger), reach around the back of the rim with the other hand and run your finger across the hole the nut is in.
If you can feel the end of the nut, then it's too long. Keeping in mind the nut is just freely sitting in the whole, when you torque it on the vehicle it will be closer to the rotor.
So even if you barely feel the nut, then likely it will touch the rotor when you torque it down.
This is likely not the most scientific way to check, but it will give you a rough idea.
One way you can tell if the nuts are too long...take one Motegi rim (off the the wheel) and put the nut in the hole as if it was installed on the vehicle.
While pushing the nut in securely with one hand (finger), reach around the back of the rim with the other hand and run your finger across the hole the nut is in.
If you can feel the end of the nut, then it's too long. Keeping in mind the nut is just freely sitting in the whole, when you torque it on the vehicle it will be closer to the rotor.
So even if you barely feel the nut, then likely it will touch the rotor when you torque it down.
This is likely not the most scientific way to check, but it will give you a rough idea.
Looking at the design of the nut, I honestly just assumed that the flat part was contacting the rotor. I have an assortment of digital calipers lying around, maybe I can get a more precise answer.
The shoulder shouldn't be contacting the rotor at all.
This would also explain all the balancing not solving the issue...as I mentioned in a previous post, the balance machines interface with the center bore of the rim, so the stud holes are never accounted for in the balancing equation.
The rims and tires could be perfectly fine, but if they are not tight on the vehicle, then no balancing in the world will resolve that.
The shoulder shouldn't be contacting the rotor at all.
This would also explain all the balancing not solving the issue...as I mentioned in a previous post, the balance machines interface with the center bore of the rim, so the stud holes are never accounted for in the balancing equation.
The rims and tires could be perfectly fine, but if they are not tight on the vehicle, then no balancing in the world will resolve that.
Ya it makes perfect sense now.
I'm currently perusing Gorilla's website for a version of these lugs that doesn't have the flat extension. Will post here when I find it.
The nuts you selected should work. I don't know how the depth of the Motegi mounting flange compares to a factory Lexus wheel, but make sure the new nuts have sufficient thread engagement. I would guess around 1/2-inch minimum would be sufficient. Fingers crossed for you too.
03-08-21 | 01:31 PM
