JagarIS250

Hey Joe hope you can have some insight to my situation.

I own a 2014 is250 that has a nav pioneer audio system. The sound went about 2 years ago. I’ve given up and re-attempted finding the issue multiple times.

THE ISSUE: radio powers on, I can scroll through stations but volume does not register, even when using steering controls. The sound setting screen with bass mid and treble and dsp screen is frozen/inaccessible.

Attempt #1: disconnected all speakers and tried each one individually. Still no sound.

Attempt #2: updated head unit firmware/software. No sound

Attempt #3: Toyota MDT diagnoses says faulty amp. Purchase new amp for close to $1000. Install new amp. STILL NO SOUND. Return amp and only get $700 back. (Restock fee)

Attempt #4 check wiring. Tore my whole car apart to find out that the wire harness is secure and not torn or grounded anywhere.

My last educated guess is gunna be the head unit.
oem head unit is about $2000 with core.

Before I go that direction is there anything else I can try?

Sasnuke

Everything you mention as the most common symptoms associated with an Amp failure...no volume control, no volume, cannot adjust audio settings (fade, bass, etc.)
Obviously you mention you tried a new Amp...which then leads to two possibilities...the new Amp was defective out the box, which is highly unlikely, but nothing is impossible...or...there is another reason the Amp in the vehicle now is not powering up...this also doesn't exclude the Amp in the vehicle being defective now, it simply means there may be a second underlying reason.

I know you've likely checked, but it doesn't hurt to ask to confirm, but are both fuses going to the Amp ok, and does the Amp have power and ground at the Amp connector(s)?
If the issues you are having are a result of a head unit failure you'd likely be the first. Have you checked for codes in the unit?

OEMAUTOAUD

Here's a picture of the vent to replace and also the part #. I had a customer send this picture to me.

primavera

As noted above, the failing amps stem from moisture getting in the trunk. Common issue with 2IS. Replace the trunk duct assemblies 62940-06120 to prevent the problem in the future.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...amps-fail.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...bumper-do.html

JagarIS250

no codes in the unit and the fuses are also all good. Checked power and ground at the amp connector that’s also good. Gunna try cleaning connectors in head unit and under console also kick plate sensor. Hopefully I have the same results as xus2020.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post10911097

clbalso

Thank you for offering the advice! the mechanics of the amp repair itself are somewhat of a guarded secret.
My head unit threw the amp disconnect code so i checked both fuses which were good. I have now pulled the amp and discovered some minor signs of water intrusion (blue corrosion on contacts). Where would you start in diagnosing the problem components?

lexie430

Hi Joe,
I own a 2011 GS350 AWD without the ML option, so I’ve read that it’s a Pioneer (Glad to know that since my 2002 LS430 has ML and I’ve had to replace a blown sub).
In the middle of a snow storm in Chicago a couple of years ago, the battery died when I was at the office. Roadside assistance jumped it and got me going. However, none of the speakers in the front dash have worked since. I noticed it right away when the hands free phone feature wouldn’t work properly. I’ve had to change the setting to project sound to the driver’s side front speaker to hear the other party on the phone, commands, navigation audio, etc. I read somewhere (perhaps even in the manual) that all accessories should be off when jumping the vehicle, but I’m afraid the radio was on when they jumped it. Do you think the radio being left on when it was jumped
damaged the amp? If so, can the amp be repaired or do I have to replace it? Thanks in advance for your input and for sharing your expertise in this forum.
Joe

qainat

Hello everyone,

I realise this is no longer an audio issue but more of a water leak issue.
After years of searching for an amp for my 1997 (1st Gen) GS300 in London, UK, I have finally found an affordable pre-owned stock replacement. I connected the replacement up and its working fine - sounds great to hear music in the car again. The original amp sustained water damage, and I just can't figure out where the water is coming from. The floor of the boot is dry but pulling back the carpet and lower panel, water is running along the surface of the amp area. There's no use sticking the replacement in the old one's place as it will just get fried too.
What do I do?

Sasnuke

Since you have found the leak, is there no way to fix it?

qainat

I have found water running along the amp area but can't figure out where it is coming from. I have read the forum threads that speak of drain tubes but I can't see any in the boot area.

Sasnuke

I'm assuming you have a sliding roof since you mentioned the drain tubes.
You won't see the drain tube in the boot as it runs down the C-pillar.
There is a drain tube at each corner of the sliding roof assembly...keeping in mind the assembly is almost the size of the roof itself.

It's common the rear tubes get plugged with debris where they attached to the sliding roof assembly.
The water then overflows and runs wherever it's gonna go...in this case into the boot.
You need to find a way to unclog the tube, which isn't going to be easy. The fronts are easy, but the rears are tough.

qainat

No sunroof.

Sasnuke

Then you have no drain tubes...which means the water is getting in somewhere that's it's definitely not supposed to.
I'm not sure where the Amp is in the boot of a 1997 GS, but let's assume it's the right hand side...possible areas of water entry is the rear windshield (the seal around it), the boot lid seal (wouldn't be uncommon for a car of that age), and the rear passenger door seal.
I would suggest getting a garden hose, taping it to the roof on the side where the Amp is, and letting the water flow over the rear windshield, door, and boot.
Fold down the rear seats in advance (I assume they fold down) and either lock yourself in the boot or crawl from inside the rear seat into the boot so you can observe where the water is coming from.
Obvious I suggest having someone there with you so you down get stuck and they can also relocate the garden hose if needed.

BrandoAU

I have a tuner issue that seems most prevalent when the temp is hot, as well as after driving the car a few times while shopping. I will preface this that I had the head unit replaced in July/August 2020 because of a black screen. Within a couple weeks, this issue started. When hot, many times you start the car and there is no audio from AM/FM nor XM. CD and Bluetooth work just fine. If you move from XM to AM/FM the radio tends to lock up and reboot. When in colder temps this may or may not happen on my second or third stops. It seems to be related to ambient temps as well as run-time. Over the winter, it was only occasionally an issue, and never at cold start before a trip. Has anyone ever experienced this? The unit has a few more months warranty (1 year). I am tired of putting up with it. Has anyone else experienced something like this? My first thought was AMP, but Bluetooth from my phone and CD works fine. I just stream from my phone when it is acting up as a work around. Suggestions?

qainat

@Sasnuke I will give your suggestion a try and hopefully won't get stuck in the process.