Not sure how that managed to break. They're pretty strong. We do not have a metal fitting for that (never had the need) but I'm sure you will be able to find one.

-Justin
RR Racing

 

I am not sure how it broke too, but the can outer black coating had some scuff marks on the can when it arrived.
Was it possible someone else bought it, installed, overstressed the plastic part, and then returned it before it got sent to me?

 

Found a brass splicing fitting at HomeDepo. Seem to be working now.

 

Do you have product info or a link you could share for those experiencing this in the future? It would be great to document it here

 

This is what I got if I am recalling correctly although I bought it at the physical location.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...0139/300096251

The next size up (larger) PROBABLY fits better, since 1/4 was not snug at all but I fixed it with the clamps.

 

Interesting. The same elbow on my AOS broke too, in the exact same way. Went with a different brand fitting and haven't had issues.

 

I am guessing the material might not be up to the task.

@RRRacing It could be that many people had the same mode of failure, but chose to just fix it themselves given how inexpensive the replacement part would be. Just thinking aloud.

 

I mean, i'm assuming its a nylon fitting, I don't think its a material issue, rather a component supplier issue maybe. Nylon fittings are used everywhere in the automotive scene. I replaced it with another nylon fitting I went and bought, it was maybe 2$. No issues since. Brass is a good idea. I'll do that if it ever breaks again.

 

you are right, it could be just a specific supplier.

 

this is gonna be one last update on RR Racing Oil Separator for Gen3 IS350.

I noticed some a tiny oil leak from the oil catch can and I decided to investigate it:
1. The leak was coming from the oil level tube of the catch can (bottom portion where plastic meets the housing).
2. When I removed the can and opened it, a bronze membrane was sitting at the bottom of the can, instead of being attached to the top part.
3. I also noticed that the oil level tube was almost 1/2 full, but in actuality the can was probably had 1oz of oil.
4. I saw some small cracks in the plastic of the oil level tube.
5. Oil drops ended up on the surface of exhaust manifold... which created a new smell for me, which I had to investigate.
Photos attached.
it lasted about 2000 miles and collected about 1oz of oil.
Disappointing

 

Disappointing indeed. Thank you for following up and sharing your experience. RR has some work ahead of them to fix these issues. Hope they do right by you.

 

Oh man, that's pretty bad. I will watch mine more carefully too. When I last emptied mine, I noticed cracks in the sight level tube as well. But so far no leaks.

 

Multiple posts / threads with RR racing tune putting cars into limp mode. There is no dyno proving their horsepower increase in numbers from the 3IS platform (someone actually said it stayed the same in a post a year or so back). There's a YouTuber who also said that he didn't feel the car felt any faster. Another YouTuber who documented his whole process of having a supercharger installed from their facility which ended up needing a new transmission.. shortly after that he sold his supercharged car. There is also no long term data on any of their supercharged vehicles. And now we have a broken oil catch can.

If someone can state a positive experience that they have, I'm all ears, but I've been following this company for years and I just see a bunch of negative press from their customers. Not sure why this company is advertised on the forum.

 

I Personally have had a great experience with @RRRacing and have documented it along the way. When my car was naturally aspirated, I had their tune and made almost 300 WHP on big wheels and tires. Ive since supercharged my car, and on an older tune revision made over 415 wheel horsepower, also documented. With my updated tune and colder weather I bet you its north of 450. Rafi has stuck by my side despite me being a pain in the ***, and created 7 tune revisions with me over 3 dyno sessions. He's even agreed to help me work on another 91 octane tune for extended journeys in my car. While installing my supercharger, I messed up big time twice. Cracked my timing cover due to negligence, and destroyed my factory wiring harness, again due to negligence. Rafi was instrumental in helping my figure out the issues. They do have quite a few videos of the 2GR-FSE making lots of horsepower with their hardware and software. One of them being mine. This market is so niche. They're the only people making reliable tunes for these cars, and if it weren't for them my car would be NA still. I have videos on my YouTube channel of me dynoing the car, as well as dyno graphs posted up on my build page. check it out. It's on the RC side of the forum.

Im not trying to dickride here, but seriously, my car and myself have proved a major challenge, but they stuck with me and helped get me right. Thats just talking about their engine mods too. I have spent thousands with them on suspension, brakes, control arms, emblems, you name it.

 

First, let me apologize for your disappointing experience. I don't know why you're having multiple issues with this as we sell hundreds and have a small issue once in a blue moon. I will be glad to personally address any concerns you have same as we did with the broken plastic adapter.

-These IS350's aren't known to accumulate oil the way the V8 cars do. That said, some people have the opposite experience and do get a lot of oil.
-The little crack marks are not cracks. They are cosmetic only. This happens only to some of them and we don't know why but it's never caused a problem. That glass is extremely heavy-duty. Keep in mind, we do not make or manufacture these cans we buy them from a very large vendor and they are sold through that vendor so communicating with the manufacturer is next to impossible.

Regarding the bronze filter, Below is a picture with an arrow pointing to some damage. There is supposed to be a threaded end on there that the top hat to the filter screws onto. When an AOS leaves here the filter is obviously screwed down with the top hat. There's no reason it should break off after the fact unless it was over-tightened at a later time. I suppose it could be pulled off also because the threads aren't terribly strong. But it shouldn't fall apart for no reason. I know this will sound accusatory and I apologize if so, but they are assembled before they leave.





-Justin
RR Racing