IS-F Front Calipers
07-28-24, 10:29 AM
#136
Well, the calipers made it to my house yesterday, and I put them on today. I bought a hand pump bleeder to keep from dealing with my wife 
. I had a hard time getting the seal just right on the bleeder screw. I even use a smaller tubing than what the bleeder came with... So. there were always some air bubbles.... I think it is good though.
I did the bedding in procedure for the Z26 pads, and they don't quite have the initial bite just yet. I'm not sure if that is due to some air still in the lines and/or pads still bedding in. I'm sure the pads are still bedding in.... I just did the procedure and about a 10 mile cool down run.
I am going to get a buddy of mine to come over and do the old school way of bleeding to be 100% sure all the air is out of the lines. Will keep folks posted on my opinion once I know everything is 100% good.
Thanks
. I had a hard time getting the seal just right on the bleeder screw. I even use a smaller tubing than what the bleeder came with... So. there were always some air bubbles.... I think it is good though.I did the bedding in procedure for the Z26 pads, and they don't quite have the initial bite just yet. I'm not sure if that is due to some air still in the lines and/or pads still bedding in. I'm sure the pads are still bedding in.... I just did the procedure and about a 10 mile cool down run.
I am going to get a buddy of mine to come over and do the old school way of bleeding to be 100% sure all the air is out of the lines. Will keep folks posted on my opinion once I know everything is 100% good.
Thanks
If there was a scale of 0 to 10, 0 being no brakes at all and 10 being I hit a wall, these Z26 felt like a 6 most of the time then it would feel like an 8 suddenly when super hot. To me the 6 felt good but the 8 triggered the ABS and it felt unpredictable to me. Thats why I took them off.
I had the EBC red on for a short time before the Z26 (see my post 60 and 74 above). Never had it on long enough for the breakin period but it felt like a 7 from the beginning, but I felt like it would have gotten even grippier. It was a GG rating. (I may put these back on later)
After the Z26, I tried Duralast Gold Ceramic DG1365 (these are a FF rating), because I saw a lot of ISF guys used them. They were a 5 ALL the time and panic stops had a lot of fade at first then felt like the 5 rating. These are quiet and had no dust but did not inspire confidence to do bad things
I then tried (and still have them on) the Hawk HPS 5.0. These pads feel like a 7 ALL the way up to the hottest I got them braking 140 to 30 six times in a row. It may have dropped to a 5 on the last one but it came back to a 7 after a 2 min cool down. This is the best feeling pad of all that I have tried, linear the way i like them.
The Cons are:
- They squeal a little at normal operating temps. Not when hot. The squeal is a high frequency but a low volume (cant hear it when the windows are up)
- They dust. I cant go past a week without washing the wheels. The dust is a charcoal grey color and comes of easy enough.
- They Groan when you come to a stop at that final rotation before the wheel stops. It also groans as you slowing release the brakes to go.
While I was busy beating up the Z26 my stock rear pads were hating life. I had forgotten about the auto ebrake, so every time I would park the car after at test session I was cooking the rear pads on the rear rotor because the ebrake. I didnt know at the time that was the issue, I thought the pads were not up to the task.
So, since powerstop makes a Z23 for the rear I decided to get them and try them out. During the installed I made sure I regreased the slide pins and all the points I needed to with the Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant (the purple stuff) that I had always used on my Q50.
During the breakin I noticed that there was a lot of vibration and noise that was not there before and just never went away. So I bought a fresh set of stock rear pads and installed. During the install I noticed the slide pins were a little sticky but the genius that I am I never thought about it, I just re greased them and moved on. I still had a vibration but less. That is when I saw the pad imprints on the rear rotors and I rationalized that the vibration was because of the deposits. So I first turned off the auto ebrake and ordered new cryo treated rear rotors (because race car).
During the install of the rotors I discovered the slide pins were stuck. It took me over a hour to get then out. The rubber on the slides were stuck in the bracket. It had to be the grease. So I bought new hitemp grease (CRC 05361 Silaramic Brake System Grease) that actually says for slide pins and is rubber compatible and bought new rubber parts for the slides. Now I am back and all is smooth. I am leaving the auto ebrake off too so that I dont lock the brakes when I park hot...
Last edited by Srd555; 07-29-24 at 02:22 AM.
07-31-24, 09:39 PM
#137
I did find that it took roughly 200 miles before I felt it was gripping consistently. It doesnt get on/ off grabby to me until it was very hot.
If there was a scale of 0 to 10, 0 being no brakes at all and 10 being I hit a wall, these Z26 felt like a 6 most of the time then it would feel like an 8 suddenly when super hot. To me the 6 felt good but the 8 triggered the ABS and it felt unpredictable to me. Thats why I took them off.
I had the EBC red on for a short time before the Z26 (see my post 60 and 74 above). Never had it on long enough for the breakin period but it felt like a 7 from the beginning, but I felt like it would have gotten even grippier. It was a GG rating. (I may put these back on later)
After the Z26, I tried Duralast Gold Ceramic DG1365 (these are a FF rating), because I saw a lot of ISF guys used them. They were a 5 ALL the time and panic stops had a lot of fade at first then felt like the 5 rating. These are quiet and had no dust but did not inspire confidence to do bad things
I then tried (and still have them on) the Hawk HPS 5.0. These pads feel like a 7 ALL the way up to the hottest I got them braking 140 to 30 six times in a row. It may have dropped to a 5 on the last one but it came back to a 7 after a 2 min cool down. This is the best feeling pad of all that I have tried, linear the way i like them.
The Cons are:
While I was busy beating up the Z26 my stock rear pads were hating life. I had forgotten about the auto ebrake, so every time I would park the car after at test session I was cooking the rear pads on the rear rotor because the ebrake. I didnt know at the time that was the issue, I thought the pads were not up to the task.
So, since powerstop makes a Z23 for the rear I decided to get them and try them out. During the installed I made sure I regreased the slide pins and all the points I needed to with the Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant (the purple stuff) that I had always used on my Q50.
During the breakin I noticed that there was a lot of vibration and noise that was not there before and just never went away. So I bought a fresh set of stock rear pads and installed. During the install I noticed the slide pins were a little sticky but the genius that I am I never thought about it, I just re greased them and moved on. I still had a vibration but less. That is when I saw the pad imprints on the rear rotors and I rationalized that the vibration was because of the deposits. So I first turned off the auto ebrake and ordered new cryo treated rear rotors (because race car).
During the install of the rotors I discovered the slide pins were stuck. It took me over a hour to get then out. The rubber on the slides were stuck in the bracket. It had to be the grease. So I bought new hitemp grease (CRC 05361 Silaramic Brake System Grease) that actually says for slide pins and is rubber compatible and bought new rubber parts for the slides. Now I am back and all is smooth. I am leaving the auto ebrake off too so that I dont lock the brakes when I park hot...
If there was a scale of 0 to 10, 0 being no brakes at all and 10 being I hit a wall, these Z26 felt like a 6 most of the time then it would feel like an 8 suddenly when super hot. To me the 6 felt good but the 8 triggered the ABS and it felt unpredictable to me. Thats why I took them off.
I had the EBC red on for a short time before the Z26 (see my post 60 and 74 above). Never had it on long enough for the breakin period but it felt like a 7 from the beginning, but I felt like it would have gotten even grippier. It was a GG rating. (I may put these back on later)
After the Z26, I tried Duralast Gold Ceramic DG1365 (these are a FF rating), because I saw a lot of ISF guys used them. They were a 5 ALL the time and panic stops had a lot of fade at first then felt like the 5 rating. These are quiet and had no dust but did not inspire confidence to do bad things
I then tried (and still have them on) the Hawk HPS 5.0. These pads feel like a 7 ALL the way up to the hottest I got them braking 140 to 30 six times in a row. It may have dropped to a 5 on the last one but it came back to a 7 after a 2 min cool down. This is the best feeling pad of all that I have tried, linear the way i like them.
The Cons are:
- They squeal a little at normal operating temps. Not when hot. The squeal is a high frequency but a low volume (cant hear it when the windows are up)
- They dust. I cant go past a week without washing the wheels. The dust is a charcoal grey color and comes of easy enough.
- They Groan when you come to a stop at that final rotation before the wheel stops. It also groans as you slowing release the brakes to go.
While I was busy beating up the Z26 my stock rear pads were hating life. I had forgotten about the auto ebrake, so every time I would park the car after at test session I was cooking the rear pads on the rear rotor because the ebrake. I didnt know at the time that was the issue, I thought the pads were not up to the task.
So, since powerstop makes a Z23 for the rear I decided to get them and try them out. During the installed I made sure I regreased the slide pins and all the points I needed to with the Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant (the purple stuff) that I had always used on my Q50.
During the breakin I noticed that there was a lot of vibration and noise that was not there before and just never went away. So I bought a fresh set of stock rear pads and installed. During the install I noticed the slide pins were a little sticky but the genius that I am I never thought about it, I just re greased them and moved on. I still had a vibration but less. That is when I saw the pad imprints on the rear rotors and I rationalized that the vibration was because of the deposits. So I first turned off the auto ebrake and ordered new cryo treated rear rotors (because race car).
During the install of the rotors I discovered the slide pins were stuck. It took me over a hour to get then out. The rubber on the slides were stuck in the bracket. It had to be the grease. So I bought new hitemp grease (CRC 05361 Silaramic Brake System Grease) that actually says for slide pins and is rubber compatible and bought new rubber parts for the slides. Now I am back and all is smooth. I am leaving the auto ebrake off too so that I dont lock the brakes when I park hot...
Yeah, I have driven the car about 100 miles, but half of that is highway without much brake usage.... I think they are starting to bite more.. they definitely stop fine under hard braking, but the initial bite seems very gradual to me... not a bad thing.. but I do hope they start having more initial bite.
Anyway, will update with more mileage..
08-09-24, 05:15 PM
#138
Just had a thought, maybe somebody knows the answers...
Online retailers sell a "BBK" upgrade for the IS-F which is just larger 380mm rotors. Are the stock IS-F calipers compatible with 380mm rotors?
If they were, that would allow us Enkei wheel guys to buy IS-F calipers and use a larger 380mm 2-piece rotor if we choose all while clearing the factory wheels still.
Anybody happen to know if the IS-F calipers will work with 380mm rotors?
edit - nvm, found on Figs website their 380pmm rotors require modifications. Leaving here to share info.
Online retailers sell a "BBK" upgrade for the IS-F which is just larger 380mm rotors. Are the stock IS-F calipers compatible with 380mm rotors?
If they were, that would allow us Enkei wheel guys to buy IS-F calipers and use a larger 380mm 2-piece rotor if we choose all while clearing the factory wheels still.
Anybody happen to know if the IS-F calipers will work with 380mm rotors?
edit - nvm, found on Figs website their 380pmm rotors require modifications. Leaving here to share info.
Last edited by 95bat; 08-09-24 at 05:29 PM.
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