Washing IS500 spindle grill
02-06-22, 08:08 AM
#16
Intermediate
02-06-22, 08:14 AM
#17
I washed my car today and the leaf blower got the grille 100% dry. Even the black trim along the bottom looked great. The water does not come off the paint easily until you get it waxed, though.
I have done a ceramic myself with Adams and with Carpro cquartz. I like the Adams a little more because it can go on trim and it keeps the black trim on our RX looking brand new. If you top it with the ceramic boost every couple washes the ceramic lasts a long time. The Carpro cquartz on my ES was still going strong after 2.5 years and the Adams is still going strong after 2 years. Water sheets right off and what doesn't sheet off dang near jumps off the car when I leaf blow it after a wash. I just use a cheap black & decker electric blower and it works like a champ. Plus everything washes easily too, like bugs and grime.
It is a lot of up front work which pays off over time and keeps the paint looking brand new.
I have done a ceramic myself with Adams and with Carpro cquartz. I like the Adams a little more because it can go on trim and it keeps the black trim on our RX looking brand new. If you top it with the ceramic boost every couple washes the ceramic lasts a long time. The Carpro cquartz on my ES was still going strong after 2.5 years and the Adams is still going strong after 2 years. Water sheets right off and what doesn't sheet off dang near jumps off the car when I leaf blow it after a wash. I just use a cheap black & decker electric blower and it works like a champ. Plus everything washes easily too, like bugs and grime.
It is a lot of up front work which pays off over time and keeps the paint looking brand new.
02-06-22, 11:24 AM
#18
Yeah I'm not knocking the prosumer stuff at all. People easily get years out of them with proper maintenance. I like to detail my car, but paint correction and prep has been an area I leave to the pros. I guess in my thinking you should only have to do it once or twice over the ownership of the car and they are much better than I am.
BTW, our white pearl RX did not require paint correction. My Atomic Silver ES also did not require it, but I did polish it just to do it. My USB IS does require paint correction, I noticed swirls in the paint on my first wash which I'm 99% sure I didn't do. Adams makes a "hand revive" polish that you put on obviously by hand and it's damn near impossible to mess up your paint with it. It will remove minor swirl marks and make the paint ready for a ceramic.
It really all comes down to whether you want to give something a try yourself or pay somebody to do it
I think most are capable of doing a ceramic, they're pretty easy these days.
02-06-22, 11:28 AM
#19
Racer
Totally understandable. I am capable of doing it so I save the money and do it myself
BTW, our white pearl RX did not require paint correction. My Atomic Silver ES also did not require it, but I did polish it just to do it. My USB IS does require paint correction, I noticed swirls in the paint on my first wash which I'm 99% sure I didn't do. Adams makes a "hand revive" polish that you put on obviously by hand and it's damn near impossible to mess up your paint with it. It will remove minor swirl marks and make the paint ready for a ceramic.
It really all comes down to whether you want to give something a try yourself or pay somebody to do it I think most are capable of doing a ceramic, they're pretty easy these days.
BTW, our white pearl RX did not require paint correction. My Atomic Silver ES also did not require it, but I did polish it just to do it. My USB IS does require paint correction, I noticed swirls in the paint on my first wash which I'm 99% sure I didn't do. Adams makes a "hand revive" polish that you put on obviously by hand and it's damn near impossible to mess up your paint with it. It will remove minor swirl marks and make the paint ready for a ceramic.
It really all comes down to whether you want to give something a try yourself or pay somebody to do it
I think most are capable of doing a ceramic, they're pretty easy these days.
02-06-22, 11:39 AM
#20
Pole Position
Thread Starter
USB is notoriously bad for swirl marks. I instantly noticed a ton of swirl marks at the dealership when my car was brand new.
02-07-22, 08:21 AM
#21
drives cars
The gloss-black parts of the IS are prone to swirls as well - possibly including the grille. As for the Iridium paint, I have been through a couple of cheap car washes and haven't found any swirls yet. Silver ftw.
02-07-22, 08:24 AM
#22
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Off topic, but it seems vibrant blue metallic colors in general are bad for swirls... Our 330i in blue is swirled pretty badly. Dealership washed it one time, and boom, swirls everywhere. I just have to ignore them.
The gloss-black parts of the IS are prone to swirls as well - possibly including the grille. As for the Iridium paint, I have been through a couple of cheap car washes and haven't found any swirls yet. Silver ftw.
The gloss-black parts of the IS are prone to swirls as well - possibly including the grille. As for the Iridium paint, I have been through a couple of cheap car washes and haven't found any swirls yet. Silver ftw.
You're right about the black gloss. I already have some scratches or swirls in my side mirrors. Don't know how that happened.
02-07-22, 05:23 PM
#23
Lead Lap
^^ I have said before but for minor swirls on the mirror caps, I have used Mother's Step 2 (micropolishing glaze) and it removes it all....
02-09-22, 10:16 AM
#25
Racer
I'm currently using their Mr. Pink but I don't plan on using it again. It does not remotely create suds like they claim it does. Also, stay clear of their clay luber. I used it to prep my car for ceramic coat and dried it to the best of my abilities, but some of it got into some cracks in the bumpers, and at night when you shine a flashlight at it you can see the blue dye of the chemical. I've tried so many products to remove it, but it doesn't come off. Luckily, I don't shine a flashlight at it at night so idc. So far the only products that ive been like "wow!" has been the meticulous matte detailer for the BBS wheels, and the diablo gel wheel cleaner. Their ceramic coating is good too. Aside from that, my experience with their products has been overhyped.
02-09-22, 05:43 PM
#26
Lead Lap
I haven't used Chemical guy products but I have heard mixed reviews on their products. I have always kept to somewhat basic suppliers and always had good outcome with car detailing. In the end, the key is to stay on top of it and not let the car get to a point where you have lost control. Truth be told however, I do enjoy detailing so that is half the battle right there IMO. But macmaster, I agree the front grill can be a task and a half to clean, especially when bugs get in the nooks but that I always fire up my pressure washer (for the grill only) when they are fresh and it comes off super easy and then air dry it as best as I can.
Tipsy - did you accidentally order from a wrong catalog?!?!
Tipsy - did you accidentally order from a wrong catalog?!?!
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TipsyTonio (02-10-22)
02-09-22, 07:12 PM
#27
02-09-22, 07:41 PM
#28
Can't go wrong with Meg's Gold Class. I've used Meg's HyperWash with a foam cannon for a few years. Works great, also extremely economical. I'm still on the same $30, 1 gallon jug I got 3 years ago.
Anyone who offers coatings also seems to have a wash product that is supposed to work "together" with their coating. I'm going with Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra coating this time around, so I'm going to try out their G Wash for maintenance cleaning after the coating is applied. Goes in this weekend to start the PPF/tint/coating process, I'm excited.
Anyone who offers coatings also seems to have a wash product that is supposed to work "together" with their coating. I'm going with Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra coating this time around, so I'm going to try out their G Wash for maintenance cleaning after the coating is applied. Goes in this weekend to start the PPF/tint/coating process, I'm excited.
02-09-22, 11:41 PM
#29
I second gold class as well. Ph-neutral and non- aggressive so it won't strip away any sealants/wax you may have.
Chemical guys, I've used a handful of their products, but i also have seen mixed reviews in the detailing communities. Their product line is way too excessive as well, which doesn't make finding the "best" application easy.
Chemical guys, I've used a handful of their products, but i also have seen mixed reviews in the detailing communities. Their product line is way too excessive as well, which doesn't make finding the "best" application easy.
02-10-22, 04:48 AM
#30
Racer
I second gold class as well. Ph-neutral and non- aggressive so it won't strip away any sealants/wax you may have.
Chemical guys, I've used a handful of their products, but i also have seen mixed reviews in the detailing communities. Their product line is way too excessive as well, which doesn't make finding the "best" application easy.
Chemical guys, I've used a handful of their products, but i also have seen mixed reviews in the detailing communities. Their product line is way too excessive as well, which doesn't make finding the "best" application easy.