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Thanks. I jacked up the car, got underneath, and couldn't even find the first thing in the diagram. I guess I should probably get a professional to do it for me instead...
Did you find the instructions to be too thorough? Seems to me that one doesn't have to unbolt the exhaust hangers and perhaps wiggle out the sway bar. I don't know.
Most importantly, where is the AFS height sensor? I am seriously thinking about having someone install it for me, but I'd want them to mark the location of the AFS sensor so that my headlamp aim isn't mucked up. I spent literal hours aiming my headlamps....not trying to do that ever again.
It's been a while since I installed mine but I don't recall taking off nearly as much as they suggest--Sorry that I didn't think to take photos document it at the time. I have my own 4-post lift in the backyard so every job under a car is a little easier.
I wouldn't think this should affect the height sensors but if it helps, I posted a couple illustrations recently in this thread --> Check Headlight thread
Its pretty straight forward if you can swap out brakes. Then tackling the sways is pretty easy. It's harder on the AWD where you have to drop the subframe up front.
The worst part is hoping that the end link bolts aren't stripped in the rear. Where you have to insert a 5mm hex to keep the stud from spinning. If so then lock in some small vise grips on the back side next to the joint on the endlink. To prevent it from spinning.
Yeah I can install front and rear brakes all day, been there, done that on multiple vehicles, and change my own oil, and do simple stuff like serpentine belts, alternators, and starters, but this is a new task for me .
I might try to tackle it, or I might just enlist the help of a professional. 90% of the time, after I'm done wrenching on a vehicle, I always have some "leftover" bolts, and I'd rather not have any "leftover" suspension fasteners.
I did it for my IS350 years back. I didn't have to remove anything other than the sway bar itself. I ran into a snag though. The stock bar that was on the car had the bushings and brackets molded right into the bar instead of the typical U brackets and the slit rubber piece. The F-sport was just a plain bar. If your stock one is like mine, you have to buy a pair of brackets and bushings separately before you can do the swap.
Well I got the bars (rear and front) installed by a local shop and holy crap, the difference is huge. Yes, the bars cost me nearly $500, and the install cost me another $400 (supposed 3 hours of labor) but it was worth having something done right the first time. I have a bad habit of having a few leftover bolts each time I work on my car. So, $900 altogether, but I'd say that the improvement was certainly worth it. It certainly tightened up the feel of the car. Now I'm curious as to how the IS350 sedan feels with the F-sport sway bars. Must feel even better, with less weight and no heavy convertible roof.
And actually, these sway bars are probably going to cost me more $900...I'm probably going to need a set of new rear tires soon ... if that gives you an idea of how much of a difference the sway bars made. The car is a lot more toss-able now and enjoyable to drive. My IS350c went from sitting in the garage for the last months or so to daily driver again.
Yep, did the change on mine (though did a full F sport suspension conversion, including the coils, shocks, sway bars, etc).
I think the sway bars added about 60% of the difference. The other 40% of improved handling I have is due to the new coils and shocks. I will say the added coils and shocks help give you a much more connected feel to the road, turn in in so much sharper and the steering just feels tighter (I also afterwards swapped the F-Sport 2013 Steering ECU, omg, that made a HUGE difference for steering feel). The sway bar helps with that body roll, which I have to say in stock form is pretty atrocious on the ISC.
Right now the steering just feels a little too heavy sometimes in my opinion, especially when I'm just trying to cruise down the highway or casually drive around town. It feels like it's trying to imitate a sports car but it only has weight, and a little too much at that. What did the F-sport steering ECU change?
Finally, is the ECU upgrade applicable for 2012 IS350c?
In normal mode, it's actually a little "lighter." When you press the POWER button, things change. The steering isn't "heavy" as much as it's better "weighted" and the weight is much more gradually built up as you turn. So on a wide, long, curving freeway on ramp (or S curves or mountain switchbacks), IN POWER mode, the weight builds up and gives you better road feel/steering resistance as you turn faster and as the radius decreases. This is how steering is supposed to feel before everyone started moving to video game controllers (aka, electric power steering).
What you're describing, the "heavy" steering is exactly the problem. You call it "heavy" but a better description is "dead" with no feedback. The ECU upgrade (which would work fine on a '12) gets rid of that "dead, heavy" feel and gives you more feedback and gradually increased weight/resistance as you take corners. So you know a little better what the front wheels are doing. It's much more engaging. So right now, your steering is like a "heavy (aka dead)" on/off switch whenever you turn the wheel. It just turns with the same weight no matter what you're driving through (basically). The F ECU (newer one esp) makes it feel like instead of an on/off switch, you have a gradual and larger range of weight/resistance with a very pleasant on center feel.
That said, I come from BMWs so found the default steering to be horrendous and it still doesn't feel as good as a 20 year old 3 series. Most people are probably fine with it stock. If you don't do "engaged" driving regularly, then it's probably not going to be enough of a diff to justify the price.
09-17-19, 02:38 PM
