When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I didn't even know there was an IS C thread lurking on here. Its kind of buried in all the other IS threads 🤷. Anyways, I've been on the site for a few years.
Originally owned an 2006 is350, then an 2008 lexus isf, then a 2012 lexus is250 f sport, and now a 2010 is350c!
I just picked it up the other day...and well. I decided to make a build there (don't see many on here at all). I've been busy already. 😎
Bone stock, getting ready for tint.
5% 🤪
ESRs RF15s
18x8.5 +30 (had to run a 3mm spacer up front to clear the brakes)
18x9.5 +35
Vland headlights, also upgraded the fog lights to 6k LEDs
Smoked the taillights with Vivid taillight tint
F sport intake & filter
F sport shift ****
Escort iXc radar & M1 dashcam
Next up,
Rockville RockGhost subwoofer w/built in amp. (This will go in the spare tire location since there already isn't much room.)
Muffler delete with custom tips.
RSR down springs (already on hand)
G2 calipers paint (blue). Will probably tackle this in the fall when it cools down slightly.
Paint the interior trim gloss black.
Swap in a F sport steering wheel. The OEM wheel is shot.
Just curious, how loud is the exhaust with the muffler delete? I drive with the top down as often as I can (pretty often here in Sunny So Cal) and although I would like alittle more "Growl" I like having a quieter ride where I'm not trying to scream over an exhaust drone.
What made you decide to upgrade the subwoofer and pre-amp, but not any other speakers?
Thanks! The build will happen pretty quickly, minus painting the calipers.
I had a muffler delete on my is250. I didn't think it was loud at all. It had a slight drone at 85-90 mph on the highway, but other than that it wasn't to bad. BUT I've never had a convertible before, so it's very possible it might be to loud when the top is down. I'll have to watch some more YouTube vids to make sure it's the route I want to go. I know I want some sort of an exhaust. I would love an F sport one, but that's double the money I spent on an entire cat-back for my ISF. And nothing else seems to work without modifying it, so I figured muffler delete was the cheapest & easiest route to go.
I felt like the factory speakers are good enough. I just wanted something with a little more thump. I may upgrade the door speakers in the future. I did upgrade them on my ISF and it made a pretty good difference.
I ended up putting two, powered 8" slimline, under seat type subs in the trunk between the spare tire cover/carpet and the retractable top protector. You don't see them in the trunk and it is otherwise empty space. It sounds great when the top is up and moderate with the top down. I wanted to install them under the front seats for better top-down sound, but there is not enough clearance when the seats auto fold.
There is also a factory provision for an 8" sub behind the rear seats, used if you have the ML System. I originally installed a free air pioneer sub and amp in this factory spot but it rattled too much so I went the other route.
I ended up putting two, powered 8" slimline, under seat type subs in the trunk between the spare tire cover/carpet and the retractable top protector. You don't see them in the trunk and it is otherwise empty space. It sounds great when the top is up and moderate with the top down. I wanted to install them under the front seats for better top-down sound, but there is not enough clearance when the seats auto fold.
There is also a factory provision for an 8" sub behind the rear seats, used if you have the ML System. I originally installed a free air pioneer sub and amp in this factory spot but it rattled too much so I went the other route.
Love the setup! Looks very clean. I do not have ML unfortunately. Would I still have the empty spot for an 8in sub?
Yes they all have the sub provision. Mine does not have the ML system, either.
Good to know! When you out your sub in the factory location, did you put and sound deading, or anything else to help with the rattling? Or did you just throw it in?
Also curious if there are any sub/amp installed guides floating around on the forum for the ISC? I tried searching for some but didn't find anything concrete as to which wires to tap into on the factory amp.
After attempting to copy my IS250 wiring, I realized the ISC has a smaller amp & what appears to be different wiring.
I made a bracket so it would mount to the existing holes. I was looking into adding Dynamat but there was so much vibration in the rear and side panels, it was looking to turn into a huge project for just a single 8" sub. I bought the slimline powered subs intending to put them under each front seat. The seats go all the way down when you hit the auto-fold buttons, which did not leave enough clearance for them under the seats. The heat from them also had an adverse effect on the ventilated seat function so that became a no-go. I measured and they were just slim enough to not touch the conv top panels when folded.
I may take another stab at the free air sub in the factory spot sometime in the future. I used T-taps to detect a signal from the rear speaker leads at the factory amp in the trunk so I didn't have to run a seperate wire for the remote turn on for the two sub/amps.
I'll look for the wiring schematic I used. I remember the wire colors being different than what was on the sedan schematic. There are lots of neat things to do to these cars. I also changed the front grill to the 3is version, converted all the interior lights from green to blue and covered the wood grain panels with brushed vinyl- much more modern look.
I made a bracket so it would mount to the existing holes. I was looking into adding Dynamat but there was so much vibration in the rear and side panels, it was looking to turn into a huge project for just a single 8" sub. I bought the slimline powered subs intending to put them under each front seat. The seats go all the way down when you hit the auto-fold buttons, which did not leave enough clearance for them under the seats. The heat from them also had an adverse effect on the ventilated seat function so that became a no-go. I measured and they were just slim enough to not touch the conv top panels when folded.
I may take another stab at the free air sub in the factory spot sometime in the future. I used T-taps to detect a signal from the rear speaker leads at the factory amp in the trunk so I didn't have to run a seperate wire for the remote turn on for the two sub/amps.
I'll look for the wiring schematic I used. I remember the wire colors being different than what was on the sedan schematic. There are lots of neat things to do to these cars. I also changed the front grill to the 3is version, converted all the interior lights from green to blue and covered the wood grain panels with brushed vinyl- much more modern look.
Have fun-
Looks awesome! Did you solder the LEDs yourself? Looks like a bunch work, but I love the blue!!
I did all of the soldering except the gauge cluster. There were over 50 of them in the nav, radio, steering wheel, doors and AC vents.
I sent the cluster out to Tanin to do so I didn't have to worry about messing up the needles:
I did all of the soldering except the gauge cluster. There were over 50 of them in the nav, radio, steering wheel, doors and AC vents.
I sent the cluster out to Tanin to do so I didn't have to worry about messing up the needles:
Sounds like a time consuming and tedious job you did.
I actually swapped the gauge cluster needles on my ISF from Tainn. I'm not in need of new ones at this time but would definitely do it in the future when needed.
Thanks for the link! I'll grab a set, they are pretty cheap.
07-19-21, 05:19 PM
Patton's build thread
