Can anyone post their alignment specs that have not wavered and stood the test of time for tire wear for street use.
Finally get the F lowered this week and want to have a spec sheet to hand to the alignment shop to go by and not deviate.

Any help would be great (range of min to max or just hard numbers)

 

-2* F&R
Little bit of toe in the back, zero toe up front.
Maximizing caster with RR FUCAs and spherical USRS.

This setup is not great for tire wear in the front, rear tires are okay. I'd probably dial down to -1.5 camber F&R.

 

The only adjustment they'll be able to do with stock hardware is toe.

fwiw here are stock specs

 

There's hours worth of reading in this thread, but no 'stood the test of time' answer from what I've found so far. I'm actually redoing my '08 suspension (to 13 parts) and doing Figs LCA bushings this week (keeping stock ride height) and once that's done I'm planning to use the 'gran turismo' alignment often referenced that @lobuxracer posted in the big thread. Alignment is an area where I don't have any technical knowledge, based on what I read it seems like as good starting point as any.

 

Below are my alignment specs for corner-balanced Figs/Ohlins coilover kit. Before this alignment, I had zero Front toe for 6 months and loved it. Turn-in is crisp and immediate without any high-speed stability or wandering issues. Maybe the steering ECU compensates, maybe it is simply mechanical leverage with ~7.5° of caster, not sure but it is special.* Tire wear on 18in Conti DWS6+ has not been remarkably asymmetric with -1.8° camber and these toes, but I have been relatively consistent with rotating every 5k miles and the Conti sidewall is soft, which may help(?).


03/04/21 Alignment Specs

03/04/21 Corner Balance Measurements.

* Some alignment shops will freak out if you request zero F toe. They are concerned about high-speed stability and their liability. Persistence may be required to get this setup.

 

Here are the "one size fits all" first alignment that was done after coilover install
I'm leaning towards doing the RR front upper control arms and obviously header install will drop subframe very soon
So realignment will be needed
Any big thoughts/advice on the current?

 

Those numbers were with all OEM bushings. I wouldn't run that now. Too much toe in at the front. I run -0.04 both sides in the front now.

 

The USRS were replaced w the mid stiffness from RR (the road and track version)

 

I'm running all solid bushings in the front. Polyurethane is better than OEM, but solid is better than anything.

 

Lubux Being with your experience of tuning sprint cars etc
What would be your next steps
Wait til headers and subframe are done and add the front control arms or??

Also, I'm confused on the toe total
you said you are running .04 now and mine is way to much but its .03? which is a lower number closer to zero?

 

-0.04 and +0.03 are in opposite directions. Negative numbers are toe out, positive numbers are toe in. So there's a 0.07 degree difference between these settings per wheel.

 

Gotcha...missed the - & + on the quick read
However, in the tire "wear" grand scheme of things, regardless of handling etc, wouldn't you pick your poison on inner and outer based on #'s alone?

 

Pretty much true. In general, toe-out wears the inside edges, toe-in wears the outside edges. Most techs will give you a little toe in because OEM bushings promote toe out under braking, so a little toe in results in more even tire wear under braking where it counts the most.

 

I'll have it adjusted after the header swap
any yay or nay on the front upper control arms?

 

Depends on how sensitive you are to road noise from sharp bumps. Poly or solid bushings are much noisier, but provide unequalled stability in the settings. I don't mind the noise. It's much harder to hear after putting on headers and a Joe Z exhaust.