llamaboiz

i really dont understand what the big deal is with the stock is-f rims... so their BBS, so what? It's still... umm... not very attractive... function over form i guess...

SClean4

What BBS model(s) are you looking at? I really like the LM and RS.

CrazyMPG

iTrader: (4)

RS-GT...they weight less than the LM and the LMR's...heh

ToothDoc

Do you ever consider going to 18" volks? 18" Volk RE30s fit w/o any problems (with almost 1/2 clearance over the brakes!!!) on the IS-F unlike the stock IS350 rims.

kyang91

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the helpful information.....now I think I am just going to save up for some BBS wheels.

AlBoston

more like absolutely correct statement. Lexus, MB, and BMW have very high standards for strength, corrosion, etc.

Aftermarket rims don't go through these endurance tests... granted the better brands (ex BBS) do make a high quality rim.

rominl

iTrader: (4)

any solid statistical numbers? i have seen my share of bent, cracked, and out of round factory wheels. that include lexus and bmw and mb.

at the same time, i have seen a lot of aftermarket wheels going strong for yrs and no bend or out of round.

factory wheels are usually "smaller" than aftermarket replacement ones, meaning there are usually more tire protection. using that as an argument then yes, maybe i will agree with you it's less likely to damage factory wheels. but in no way would i agree factory wheels are stronger than aftermarket wheels. in fact, companies like hre, their strength standard is very high, as are brands like bbs as you mentioned.

i have yet to see any solid reports or proofs that factory wheels are stronger, and by how much

FastMILF

I've weighed my Volk RE30's and 18" tires and they come out to be only 39 pounds for front and 41 pounds for rears. That's OVER 40 pounds of rotational weight savings over stock BBS!!!!

milky

iTrader: (9)

i agree, depending on what wheels you are comparing the factory wheels to, you cant say in general a factory wheel is stronger than an aftermarket wheel.

It depends on the brand of the wheel, tires used and thickness, road conditions, etc etc etc.......

btwanky

curiosity... how much does the spare tire weigh... I'm thinking about taking it out.. to get the car to weigh 30 or so pounds lighter

ISFfan

The IS-F's wheels are also JWL (Japanese Light Wheel Alloy) Certified, which is a distinguished certification test, which many wheels do not pass. This is just one aspect that proves the high quality of the OE wheels

carchitect

iTrader: (1)

Most alloy wheels pass the JWL standards. Its hard to find wheels that pass the JWL+R or JWL+T standards. Rays wheels and Yoko Advan wheels pass them. There are several wheel manufacturers like FIkse, HRE and OZ racing that also pass them. They usually don't place the JWL logo due to asthetic reasons. Call it wierd but Fikse does place the serial number for each wheel right on the face whereas Volk does in the inside with a bar code.

-Joe

tm7sw20

Hi guys -

Most of you guys have the right idea when it comes to JWL / VIA, and other standards -

Just wanted to talk set the record straight for these standards -

JWL - compilation of standards that a wheel manufacturer must pass to sell wheels in Japan Market -

Comprised of 3 tests -

1) Drum Endurance - A weighted (weight depends on size and load capacity) Wheel and tire and spun on a drum for 100,00 cycles - this is to test a wheels overall endurance to overall useage

2) Rotating Fatigue Test - A wheel is spun on its side with a prescribed amount of force depending on size and load to check for disk (face) durability to 50,000 cycles to check for strength and durability of disk parts.

3) 13 degree impact test - A 594kg weight is dropped on to the fim flange at a 13 degree angle to test for cracking or extreme bending -

VIA - Vehicle inspection association - This is a 3rd party group that makes sure that wheel manufacturers are adhering to test procedures, using proper equipment etc..

IF a wheel is to be sold in Japan, JWL and VIA MUST be on the face.

JWL + T - this is in reference to standards for Trucks.

JWL + R - This is RAYS internal standards to show that their wheels are tested to higher specs than what is called out by Japan govt. RAYS is the only company that publicly tests to these standards.

Spec 1 - cast wheels - 50% higher than what is called out by JWL - so instead of 100,000 cycles for drum end. it is 150,000 cycles.

Spec 2 - forged wheel - double of what is called out by JWL - so instead of 100,000 cycles, its 200,000 cycles.

Also they test to a 90 degree impact test with a one ton weight to simulate driving conditions. - You guys can watch all this on youtube.

NOW as for OEM vs aftermarket -

OEM Wheels are tested WAAAAAYY higher than JWL - that is why most OEM wheels are heavy - Everything from durability to surface finishes are tested to the extreme due to liability issues (remember Ford long time ago?) and warranty claims.

This doesnt mean that some aftermarket makers arent as durable - its that these wheels are not tested to see if they can pass.

But if a company says that their wheels meet or exceed OEM quality - they are calling bull**** - Unless they are an OEM manufacturer themselves and actually know these standards. FYI - all manufacturers have different levels of standards.

TUV and DOT - TUV standards pertain to Germany, and DOT is for USA - they are all similar to JWL.

But in reference to wheels not having JWL on the face - HRE and OZ tests their wheels for sure, but many dont have JWL on the face because they done sell their wheels in Japan and its not necessary to have it. JWL is the worlds most recognized set of wheel standards so wheel companies tend to test according to these standards to show the consumer that the wheels are road worthy. The problem in the USA is that since DOT is not enforced and JWL is not recognized by the USA govt. anyone can stamp JWL on a wheel, regardless if it has been tested or not and just sell them in the USA.

IF you are unsure if a wheel you are interested to purchase passes or not - just ask for a test report - if they cannot provide testing info, then I wouldnt buy them.

Generally, more high line wheel makers will push the envelope in the aftermarket to offer lighter more agressive wheels as an upgrade. BBS, OZ, RAYS, basically brands with an OEM and racing pedigree are good bets to UPGRADE your car with wheels that should be lighter than stock, more rigid, etc..

Thanks!

Ed-

ISFfan

Thanks for the in-depth description!

-Nick

ToothDoc

I just weighed my IS-F wheels and our scales are off or something. The fronts came out at 48 and the rears at 52. The spare is 38 pounds according to my scale. The jack and tools would take out a couple more pounds so you'll be at over 40 pounds saved w/o the spare and tools.