Bad Night Photos Of Swift Intake
08-24-08, 08:32 AM
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If you read what I wrote a little closer I actually did say the exact same thing you did but I kept it Barney style. Read what I wrote again" As any runner can tell you: the more oxygen he can get into his longs results in more blood getting to the heart resulting in the rest of his body, including his extremities, getting more oxygenated blood providing the means the runner needs to move faster and for longer periods." AND HERE IS WHAT YOU WROTE "In short, more Oxygen in the human body will enable us to do more aerobic work." Hmm I don't see any difference do you? But I really appreciate the biology lesson especially since I not only work in the medical field but I specialize as a Cardiovascular TECH. Becoming a CVT did require a basic knowledge of the human anatomy also a slight bit of physics.. 
Let me see if I can go on Google really quick and pull an older picture off to post or you could read the book I am in.. your choice I guess
Gunnery Sgt. Ryan P. Shane (center), platoon gunnery sergeant from Company B, 1st Battalion, 8th Marine Regiment, Regimental Combat Team 7, and another member of 1/8 pull a fatally wounded Marine to safety while under fire Nov. 9 in Fallujah, Iraq." I think the picture above was on pretty much every magazine and um yeah that was my GUNNY SGT"
"hmm.. I think this was me.. looks fairly harmless right there, but that didn't last long" If it still isn't clear then let me see about posting the book I am in!
Let me see if I can go on Google really quick and pull an older picture off to post or you could read the book I am in.. your choice I guess Gunnery Sgt. Ryan P. Shane (center), platoon gunnery sergeant from Company B, 1st Battalion, 8th Marine Regiment, Regimental Combat Team 7, and another member of 1/8 pull a fatally wounded Marine to safety while under fire Nov. 9 in Fallujah, Iraq." I think the picture above was on pretty much every magazine and um yeah that was my GUNNY SGT"
"hmm.. I think this was me.. looks fairly harmless right there, but that didn't last long" If it still isn't clear then let me see about posting the book I am in!
08-24-08, 02:40 PM
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Thanks for the feedback (I am not sure about those sad Iraq pictures though...). I totally understand if you put more mixture in the chamber it's going to blow faster and harder and it then makes sense that you need bigger exhaust, and obviously a different program since all the engine parameters have been carefully tailored to specifications (this car has port + direct injection, that sounds like a tricky business to manage). Also, it would sound logical to me that a bigger exhaust would be needed, not just bigger tail pipes but the whole things from the block to to the rear would need larger diameter pipes?
In general, though I understand the thrill of making modifications, if done all the way where there would need to be done, I am not sure about the economical aspect of them, especially on a new car. Warranty issues aside, if one spends $10K or more to make the car outputs 40..80 more HP, then why not just not have bought the ISF but say a Nissan GTR? Because even if you add 100HP to an ISF I still doubt you will make 0 to 60 in 3.4 seconds like the GTR.
In general, though I understand the thrill of making modifications, if done all the way where there would need to be done, I am not sure about the economical aspect of them, especially on a new car. Warranty issues aside, if one spends $10K or more to make the car outputs 40..80 more HP, then why not just not have bought the ISF but say a Nissan GTR? Because even if you add 100HP to an ISF I still doubt you will make 0 to 60 in 3.4 seconds like the GTR.
08-24-08, 09:29 PM
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You're Right
Makes one wonder how on earth that a bunch of brilliant engineers spent millions of dollars developing the engine, redesigning the heads, cam, variable cam timing, increasing the displacement, tuning the computer and so on, only to miss the obvious answer, a simple inexpensive bolt-on intake.
Generally, all these things do in reality is increase noise, make some coin for the vendors, generate some truly dubious dyno readouts (ie, ad-copy) showing questionable gains.
Intakes and catbacks don't generally yield significant gains in power. It's low-hanging fruit and in the quest for fuel economy, emissions and power, the factory engineers don't usually leave many cherries low in the trees.
I've been hot-rodding for decades, much of it involving my own sweat and dirty hands. Dime to donuts, a manometer will show nearly no improvement from any intake duct/filter.
If you really want your ISF to go fast, get rid of weight. There's lots and lots of dead weight on this vehicle, from the sound proofing, to the sea of plastic covers under the hood, to the substantial anti-vibration weights on the mufflers.
Could probably knock 200lbs off the car in a week-end of getting rid of stuff that doesn't absolutely have to be there. That will bring real gains. Iffin' you're really into going fast and not just slappin' cool bolt-ons on it.
Generally, all these things do in reality is increase noise, make some coin for the vendors, generate some truly dubious dyno readouts (ie, ad-copy) showing questionable gains.
Intakes and catbacks don't generally yield significant gains in power. It's low-hanging fruit and in the quest for fuel economy, emissions and power, the factory engineers don't usually leave many cherries low in the trees.
I've been hot-rodding for decades, much of it involving my own sweat and dirty hands. Dime to donuts, a manometer will show nearly no improvement from any intake duct/filter.
If you really want your ISF to go fast, get rid of weight. There's lots and lots of dead weight on this vehicle, from the sound proofing, to the sea of plastic covers under the hood, to the substantial anti-vibration weights on the mufflers.
Could probably knock 200lbs off the car in a week-end of getting rid of stuff that doesn't absolutely have to be there. That will bring real gains. Iffin' you're really into going fast and not just slappin' cool bolt-ons on it.
I clearly don't have as much experience with cars as you do. All I know is what I have experienced since I installed the new Intake and ECU. I can't explain why it didn't make much difference when you were drag racing. Maybe the intake/filter you already had was very good and installing a different one didn't add to your HP because the one you had was already one of the best. I am not sure. I guess we will just have to wait until someone in the states installs the intake and posts their own dyno results.
My friends said he installed a stand alone in a Acura RSX. Stock I have seen this Acura get 12 seconds at the track. Just from making modifications using his laptop. Before he was getting high 14's. Using this stand alone he can save the adjustments that get him 12 seconds and everytime he goes to the track he hooks up the laptop and gets his car back to 12 seconds. After he is dones racing he returns it to the original settings. He has no aftermarket parts. The only thing he uses to get 12 seconds is a laptop. I don't really understand that either. Why didn't the company adjust his car to those settings to begin with?
But LARRY you are definitely right about the weight. If I get rid of it then my car will go a lot faster. I am too much into luxery to get rid of all that stuff. I am just going to wait until a super charger comes out so I can keep the luxery of my vehicle and get the speeds I am after.
Last edited by tastemydus; 08-24-08 at 09:35 PM. Reason: spelling
08-24-08, 09:40 PM
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I Can't Wait
Last edited by tastemydus; 08-24-08 at 09:41 PM. Reason: spelling
08-24-08, 10:25 PM
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Sorry
Thanks for the feedback (I am not sure about those sad Iraq pictures though...). I totally understand if you put more mixture in the chamber it's going to blow faster and harder and it then makes sense that you need bigger exhaust, and obviously a different program since all the engine parameters have been carefully tailored to specifications (this car has port + direct injection, that sounds like a tricky business to manage). Also, it would sound logical to me that a bigger exhaust would be needed, not just bigger tail pipes but the whole things from the block to to the rear would need larger diameter pipes?
In general, though I understand the thrill of making modifications, if done all the way where there would need to be done, I am not sure about the economical aspect of them, especially on a new car. Warranty issues aside, if one spends $10K or more to make the car outputs 40..80 more HP, then why not just not have bought the ISF but say a Nissan GTR? Because even if you add 100HP to an ISF I still doubt you will make 0 to 60 in 3.4 seconds like the GTR.
In general, though I understand the thrill of making modifications, if done all the way where there would need to be done, I am not sure about the economical aspect of them, especially on a new car. Warranty issues aside, if one spends $10K or more to make the car outputs 40..80 more HP, then why not just not have bought the ISF but say a Nissan GTR? Because even if you add 100HP to an ISF I still doubt you will make 0 to 60 in 3.4 seconds like the GTR.
Anyways, you seem like you have a good understanding. You are right about needing larger pipes all the way from the cat back to the tail pipes. The larger the pipes and the more direct route (straighter rather than curved) larger amounts of air can be expelled at a faster rate. If you desire to improve your performance the first place any mechanic will tell you is intake and exhaust, because it is so simple to change. Bring larger amounts of air/oxygen in and have the capability to get rid of larger amounts of air at a faster rate will significantly improve your performance without ruinning your vehicle. If the warranty is such a big concern there are companies that make after market parts that won't void your warranty. Also when you get the intake and exhaust installed have them bolt the parts on that way if something hapens you can put back the stock parts. I kept my stock intake and they told me it is easy to replace if I wanted it back on. I was worried that my new Intake would decrease the performance, so I wanted to make sure that when they installed the Intake that everything could be put back if I needed it to be. SIDE NOTE: When they internet guys came and set up internet. They said the speed of my connection will be determined at the slowest point. If you have a really old and slow computer and you buy the fastest internet connection your internet speed will be determined by your computer. If you have a really fast computer but super slow dial up connection then it is the dial up that will slow you down. Similar to a car. Look to see where the slowest point is? You could have a 3 inch wide tail pipe but the rest of it is only 1 1/4 inches and the pipe zig-zags and goes from two pipes into one back into two that is going to slow the air trying to get out really bad. The 1 1/4 inch pipe to sart with is small, the zig-zaging doesnt help the air get out fast and the two pipes into one back into two is also bad, which is why SRT designed a True Dual Exhaust. Two pipes running all the way from start to finish is better then the way it is set up now. I think most of it is a little common sense and a little bit about how cars work. My only suggestion is ask around and do research on your own. There is a lot of people who act like they know and they don't. That is why I talked to three different mechanics at the lexus dealer and researched SRT prior to buying their Intake. Luckily my friend is the head lexus mechanic so I am always on the phone with him before I do anything to my car. He tells me from the Lexus perspective and he also tells me his own perspective. His lexus right now is getting 11.6. I also talk to the people in my car club to learn about their experiences with performance parts. But you won't ever see me tell someone that I know everything there is to know. I know a very little bit and that comes from knowing a lot of people at car dealers, car clubs, and from reading books.
Why not buy the GTR instead of adding more mods to the IS-F? I guess for one the IS-F came out first. I have never been in a GTR so I don't know how it feels to drive. Is it as luxurious as a lexus or just faster? Is it more comfortable when you drive? These would be some questions I would like to know. Besides speed how do they compare in other areas? I looked at the base price and it said 70,000. That is base.. I would add on another 6 thousand.. which puts you in the ball park of 76 thousand dollars plus/minus tax. I got my IS-F for 56,00 because it had 30 miles on it. To me 20 thousand is 20 thousand I don't have and couldn't fork out. I know many people who bought the IS-F who probably could. FOUP if you spent 7 grand on modifing your IS-F I guarantee you can easily reach those speeds (11.7 on 1/4 mile) that the GTR is producing. Buy a INTAKE and complete EXHAUST SYSTEM and a Super Charger which is going to be the most expensive part when and if they ever do come out. With those three things you will easily get 11.7 I would think you will get into the 10's which will be below what was posted for the GTR. Well someone with a GTR can do modifications to beat your modifications but the person buying the GTR will already be spending close to 20 thousand more then you did just for the car(depending on how much you paid). If you want GTR speeds, spend 7 grand and you should not only get those speeds but do a lot better. Anyways that is my thoughts and my opinion if anyone reading this has anything to say I am sure they will post below. Oh yeah Larry said strip the insides of your car which would get rid of about 200lbs and that will also greatly increase your time.
In the end I guess it mainly comes down to preference.
Last edited by tastemydus; 08-24-08 at 11:00 PM. Reason: spelling
08-25-08, 12:43 AM
#22
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...My friends said he installed a stand alone in a Acura RSX. Stock I have seen this Acura get 12 seconds at the track. Just from making modifications using his laptop. Before he was getting high 14's. Using this stand alone he can save the adjustments that get him 12 seconds and everytime he goes to the track he hooks up the laptop and gets his car back to 12 seconds. After he is dones racing he returns it to the original settings. He has no aftermarket parts. The only thing he uses to get 12 seconds is a laptop. I don't really understand that either. Why didn't the company adjust his car to those settings to begin with?...
The SRT intake gets its power boost from changing the air/fuel ratio. All this crap about the tubes being bigger and helping the engine breathe are just that - crap. It doesn't matter HOW big the tube is, if the rest of the engine won't support maximum flow from the tube, it's just a big tube under your hood to impress your friends and nothing more.
The factory sets the air/fuel ratio VERY conservatively to ensure - no matter what - the engine runs very rich at WOT. They do this because if the engine runs 10.0:1 at WOT, it will never blow up from running too lean. EVERY manufacturer does this to prevent warranty claims if someone buys a tank of bad gas, or incase a fuel injector isn't quite up to snuff. The first thing a tuner does is change the air/fuel ratio to a more lean setting because it makes more power. On a good NA engine like the IS-F's they can run down to 13.2:1 or 13.4:1 and make a LOT more power, but at the same time, it's with a lot more risk. If you get a tank of bad gas, or if the fuel system has a hiccup and the engine runs lean, you're going to lose your engine.
Notice the warranty with your intake - it does not include a new engine. It includes the parts you bought from SRT. Also note, if your engine does die from running too lean, Lexus will not warranty it because you've modified the signal from the airflow meter to the ECM, and the soldered wire is a dead giveaway.
Also, the filter being under the hood means you're going to suck hot air anytime you stop. Hot air is great for efficiency, but terrible for maximum power. So, don't expect the car to take off quickly after sitting at a light and idling for a minute or so. It's going to need a bit to get some cooler air near the intake filter. This is why the airbox was not open to the engine bay in the first place.
The days of "cheap" and "easy" horsepower are long gone. I've spend the last 28 years or so working on engines in hopes of making more power. It's been getting more and more difficult with every model year because the manufacturers aren't leaving anything easy to grab.
And for all your anecdotal stories, I can tell you about the guys' who have bolted something on, and insisted their cars were faster but when we put a watch on them they were measurably slower. Increased engine sound has a way of making you think you're faster when in fact, you're not.
So, the intake makes more noise, but the mod to the airflow meter signal is where all the power is made.
08-25-08, 04:37 AM
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yeah real easy to get nitro by me
Because he's lying to you. He's running nitrous and not telling you. There is no way he's running 12's with a laptop tune on a standalone.
The SRT intake gets its power boost from changing the air/fuel ratio. All this crap about the tubes being bigger and helping the engine breathe are just that - crap. It doesn't matter HOW big the tube is, if the rest of the engine won't support maximum flow from the tube, it's just a big tube under your hood to impress your friends and nothing more.
The factory sets the air/fuel ratio VERY conservatively to ensure - no matter what - the engine runs very rich at WOT. They do this because if the engine runs 10.0:1 at WOT, it will never blow up from running too lean. EVERY manufacturer does this to prevent warranty claims if someone buys a tank of bad gas, or incase a fuel injector isn't quite up to snuff. The first thing a tuner does is change the air/fuel ratio to a more lean setting because it makes more power. On a good NA engine like the IS-F's they can run down to 13.2:1 or 13.4:1 and make a LOT more power, but at the same time, it's with a lot more risk. If you get a tank of bad gas, or if the fuel system has a hiccup and the engine runs lean, you're going to lose your engine.
Notice the warranty with your intake - it does not include a new engine. It includes the parts you bought from SRT. Also note, if your engine does die from running too lean, Lexus will not warranty it because you've modified the signal from the airflow meter to the ECM, and the soldered wire is a dead giveaway.
Also, the filter being under the hood means you're going to suck hot air anytime you stop. Hot air is great for efficiency, but terrible for maximum power. So, don't expect the car to take off quickly after sitting at a light and idling for a minute or so. It's going to need a bit to get some cooler air near the intake filter. This is why the airbox was not open to the engine bay in the first place.
The days of "cheap" and "easy" horsepower are long gone. I've spend the last 28 years or so working on engines in hopes of making more power. It's been getting more and more difficult with every model year because the manufacturers aren't leaving anything easy to grab.
And for all your anecdotal stories, I can tell you about the guys' who have bolted something on, and insisted their cars were faster but when we put a watch on them they were measurably slower. Increased engine sound has a way of making you think you're faster when in fact, you're not.
So, the intake makes more noise, but the mod to the airflow meter signal is where all the power is made.
The SRT intake gets its power boost from changing the air/fuel ratio. All this crap about the tubes being bigger and helping the engine breathe are just that - crap. It doesn't matter HOW big the tube is, if the rest of the engine won't support maximum flow from the tube, it's just a big tube under your hood to impress your friends and nothing more.
The factory sets the air/fuel ratio VERY conservatively to ensure - no matter what - the engine runs very rich at WOT. They do this because if the engine runs 10.0:1 at WOT, it will never blow up from running too lean. EVERY manufacturer does this to prevent warranty claims if someone buys a tank of bad gas, or incase a fuel injector isn't quite up to snuff. The first thing a tuner does is change the air/fuel ratio to a more lean setting because it makes more power. On a good NA engine like the IS-F's they can run down to 13.2:1 or 13.4:1 and make a LOT more power, but at the same time, it's with a lot more risk. If you get a tank of bad gas, or if the fuel system has a hiccup and the engine runs lean, you're going to lose your engine.
Notice the warranty with your intake - it does not include a new engine. It includes the parts you bought from SRT. Also note, if your engine does die from running too lean, Lexus will not warranty it because you've modified the signal from the airflow meter to the ECM, and the soldered wire is a dead giveaway.
Also, the filter being under the hood means you're going to suck hot air anytime you stop. Hot air is great for efficiency, but terrible for maximum power. So, don't expect the car to take off quickly after sitting at a light and idling for a minute or so. It's going to need a bit to get some cooler air near the intake filter. This is why the airbox was not open to the engine bay in the first place.
The days of "cheap" and "easy" horsepower are long gone. I've spend the last 28 years or so working on engines in hopes of making more power. It's been getting more and more difficult with every model year because the manufacturers aren't leaving anything easy to grab.
And for all your anecdotal stories, I can tell you about the guys' who have bolted something on, and insisted their cars were faster but when we put a watch on them they were measurably slower. Increased engine sound has a way of making you think you're faster when in fact, you're not.
So, the intake makes more noise, but the mod to the airflow meter signal is where all the power is made.
Oh by the way thanks for the compliment on my anecdotal stories. I am just writing about my experiences,, sorry they don't fit your illusions. Why don't you post some worthy information since you have so much experience.. or don't you have any? When I stop seeing the stock cars get smoked at the track then I might believe you. Until then CIAO! One more thing your right,, the sound makes me feel like I am going faster.. why because I am! ATTENTION: ANYONE ON GUAM WITH A STOCK IS-F THAT WANTS TO RACE>> I WILL BET THAT YOU LOSE. I WILL PUT UP 10 GRAND CASH OR PINK SLIPS WHICHEVER YOU PREFER?
Last edited by tastemydus; 08-25-08 at 04:48 AM. Reason: dumb ass post
08-25-08, 07:12 AM
#25
Because he's lying to you. He's running nitrous and not telling you. There is no way he's running 12's with a laptop tune on a standalone.
The SRT intake gets its power boost from changing the air/fuel ratio. All this crap about the tubes being bigger and helping the engine breathe are just that - crap. It doesn't matter HOW big the tube is, if the rest of the engine won't support maximum flow from the tube, it's just a big tube under your hood to impress your friends and nothing more.
The factory sets the air/fuel ratio VERY conservatively to ensure - no matter what - the engine runs very rich at WOT. They do this because if the engine runs 10.0:1 at WOT, it will never blow up from running too lean. EVERY manufacturer does this to prevent warranty claims if someone buys a tank of bad gas, or incase a fuel injector isn't quite up to snuff. The first thing a tuner does is change the air/fuel ratio to a more lean setting because it makes more power. On a good NA engine like the IS-F's they can run down to 13.2:1 or 13.4:1 and make a LOT more power, but at the same time, it's with a lot more risk. If you get a tank of bad gas, or if the fuel system has a hiccup and the engine runs lean, you're going to lose your engine.
Notice the warranty with your intake - it does not include a new engine. It includes the parts you bought from SRT. Also note, if your engine does die from running too lean, Lexus will not warranty it because you've modified the signal from the airflow meter to the ECM, and the soldered wire is a dead giveaway.
Also, the filter being under the hood means you're going to suck hot air anytime you stop. Hot air is great for efficiency, but terrible for maximum power. So, don't expect the car to take off quickly after sitting at a light and idling for a minute or so. It's going to need a bit to get some cooler air near the intake filter. This is why the airbox was not open to the engine bay in the first place.
The days of "cheap" and "easy" horsepower are long gone. I've spend the last 28 years or so working on engines in hopes of making more power. It's been getting more and more difficult with every model year because the manufacturers aren't leaving anything easy to grab.
And for all your anecdotal stories, I can tell you about the guys' who have bolted something on, and insisted their cars were faster but when we put a watch on them they were measurably slower. Increased engine sound has a way of making you think you're faster when in fact, you're not.
So, the intake makes more noise, but the mod to the airflow meter signal is where all the power is made.
The SRT intake gets its power boost from changing the air/fuel ratio. All this crap about the tubes being bigger and helping the engine breathe are just that - crap. It doesn't matter HOW big the tube is, if the rest of the engine won't support maximum flow from the tube, it's just a big tube under your hood to impress your friends and nothing more.
The factory sets the air/fuel ratio VERY conservatively to ensure - no matter what - the engine runs very rich at WOT. They do this because if the engine runs 10.0:1 at WOT, it will never blow up from running too lean. EVERY manufacturer does this to prevent warranty claims if someone buys a tank of bad gas, or incase a fuel injector isn't quite up to snuff. The first thing a tuner does is change the air/fuel ratio to a more lean setting because it makes more power. On a good NA engine like the IS-F's they can run down to 13.2:1 or 13.4:1 and make a LOT more power, but at the same time, it's with a lot more risk. If you get a tank of bad gas, or if the fuel system has a hiccup and the engine runs lean, you're going to lose your engine.
Notice the warranty with your intake - it does not include a new engine. It includes the parts you bought from SRT. Also note, if your engine does die from running too lean, Lexus will not warranty it because you've modified the signal from the airflow meter to the ECM, and the soldered wire is a dead giveaway.
Also, the filter being under the hood means you're going to suck hot air anytime you stop. Hot air is great for efficiency, but terrible for maximum power. So, don't expect the car to take off quickly after sitting at a light and idling for a minute or so. It's going to need a bit to get some cooler air near the intake filter. This is why the airbox was not open to the engine bay in the first place.
The days of "cheap" and "easy" horsepower are long gone. I've spend the last 28 years or so working on engines in hopes of making more power. It's been getting more and more difficult with every model year because the manufacturers aren't leaving anything easy to grab.
And for all your anecdotal stories, I can tell you about the guys' who have bolted something on, and insisted their cars were faster but when we put a watch on them they were measurably slower. Increased engine sound has a way of making you think you're faster when in fact, you're not.
So, the intake makes more noise, but the mod to the airflow meter signal is where all the power is made.
Now I have a 997 TT. It also has exhaust, drop-in filter and a GIAC flash raising the HP from 480 to 550 at the crank. Stock quarter mile averages around 11.7. Most folks with my mods run 11.4. 0.3 gain with an additional 80 crank HP. If I had the Acura's software alone, I should be able to do the quarter mile in 9.xx seconds
It just does not add up.
08-25-08, 07:52 AM
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sorry but nobody is going to get nitro by me when I know his car inside and out. He doesn't even have the SRT Intake. Explain that. How about we wait till someone posts their dyno results that doesn't work for SRT. And congrats for working with cars for 28 years!
Oh by the way thanks for the compliment on my anecdotal stories. I am just writing about my experiences,, sorry they don't fit your illusions. Why don't you post some worthy information since you have so much experience.. or don't you have any? When I stop seeing the stock cars get smoked at the track then I might believe you. Until then CIAO! One more thing your right,, the sound makes me feel like I am going faster.. why because I am! ATTENTION: ANYONE ON GUAM WITH A STOCK IS-F THAT WANTS TO RACE>> I WILL BET THAT YOU LOSE. I WILL PUT UP 10 GRAND CASH OR PINK SLIPS WHICHEVER YOU PREFER?
Oh by the way thanks for the compliment on my anecdotal stories. I am just writing about my experiences,, sorry they don't fit your illusions. Why don't you post some worthy information since you have so much experience.. or don't you have any? When I stop seeing the stock cars get smoked at the track then I might believe you. Until then CIAO! One more thing your right,, the sound makes me feel like I am going faster.. why because I am! ATTENTION: ANYONE ON GUAM WITH A STOCK IS-F THAT WANTS TO RACE>> I WILL BET THAT YOU LOSE. I WILL PUT UP 10 GRAND CASH OR PINK SLIPS WHICHEVER YOU PREFER?
so dont be so stuck up and just take it in for wut it is
08-25-08, 11:03 AM
#27
Agreed with Lobux...the intake is risky as it does indeed alter the a/f signal causing the car to run leaner. I would be wary of this mod.....however, a cat back exhaust that can free up 10-15 rwhp would be nice! Now, are you going to dyno it?
Peter
Now, are you going to dyno it?Peter
08-25-08, 12:44 PM
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Problem is...to get anything other than dirtball numbers...he'll have to return the car to stock, dyno it then add the mods and dyno it on the same machine, same day. That's about the only way to know if the SRT is actually doing anything.
