is-f brand new 57k out the door
08-28-08, 01:13 PM
#31
Lexus Connoisseur
The thread title should be edited from "is-f brand new 57k out the door" to "is-f brand new 57K out the door plus trade and down payment".
08-28-08, 01:14 PM
#32
Pole Position
Thread Starter
and yea delaware tax is only Delaware has a 2.75% or soo
08-28-08, 02:18 PM
#33
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BS because people love to say what they got but they don't disclose the terms of how much down they actually put down or if they had a trade involved or etc.
Just trying to save the grief to our members that go into a dealership and waste their time. Then they complain why they hate X dealership because they didn't get the deal that member X got on CL. I hear it from friends almost everyday that are in the industry... "oh man I got another one of your CL members asking for unreasonable pricing because they saw it on CL".
Just trying to save the grief to our members that go into a dealership and waste their time. Then they complain why they hate X dealership because they didn't get the deal that member X got on CL. I hear it from friends almost everyday that are in the industry... "oh man I got another one of your CL members asking for unreasonable pricing because they saw it on CL".
08-28-08, 02:22 PM
#34
Pole Position
Thread Starter
either way i am happy, got an IS_F
It's a fact that internet war stories often leave out important details so I have to agree with you. My basic contention is that there are some very good deals to be had IF you are willing to travel, because as you said "X dealership" in a certain market may not play ball. It's almost exactly the same story with M3's, and it's highly region-dependent. In my case, $57K (max) OTD all cash no trade should be highly doable...
08-28-08, 06:14 PM
#36
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I think the OP did get a good deal, but nothing extraordinary. It was just misleading because the Delaware sales tax is sooo low, so the OTD price is also very low. You guys are very lucky. In CA it's almost 4x that!
08-28-08, 06:45 PM
#37
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The value of a trade or amount down/financed is a separate transaction.
Depending on the equipment in the car and the local taxes/fees, $57k certainly possible.
On the dealership question, I walked on one dealership because they didn't deal where I wanted. The second was more willing to play ball, but I still had to haggle with them a while.
08-29-08, 08:36 AM
#39
Lexus Connoisseur
OTD price is the sale price of the car and TT&L. Down payment and trade is irrelevant to the "OTD" price as everyone will put down a different amount as a down payment or have +/- equity in their trade.
Edit: People are getting rougly near or at invoice price which is about $54K. Here in CA, OTD price (no down/no trade), is around $59-$60k after TT&L.
08-29-08, 09:46 AM
#40
08-29-08, 11:49 AM
#42
Lexus Connoisseur
$55k (invoice) - $6k (down+trade) = $49.
$49K+ $2k (Delaware TT&L) = $51 OTD roughly.
08-29-08, 11:57 AM
#43
$57k is a good deal on east cost here since lots of dealers around here are not willing to budge...We've found another dealer willing to give away IS-F for $56k but not enough on the trade in...So after you look at the final numbers...Cherry hill gave us better #s
08-29-08, 01:55 PM
#44
Lexus Connoisseur
$57 is a good deal if you have $6k as a down payment off of MSRP back in February 08. But paying MSRP at this time of the year...not so much.
08-29-08, 06:59 PM
#45
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Why does the finance guy at the dealership wear a Rolex?
Because so many people who buy cars can't do math.
1st math question: How much is the car? This is the KEY number when buying a car. This is the one you FIGHT for.
2nd math question: How much are the required fees, such as TT&L.
3rd math question: How much are the documentary fees and stuff that the dealer put on to the paper?
The net sum of all this simple math is the Out The Door price of the new car.
Next set of math questions: How much for your trade, if any? This is the second number you FIGHT for.
The OTD price of the car, less the trade in, is the amount you're going to write a check for or finance. In some states, the trade-in value changes the amount of sales tax paid. In other states, it does not.
At this point, this is the end of the transaction and two questions have been answered:
1. What the out-the-door price was?
2. How much did I get for my trade in?
Financing, amount down and per month, hasn't got a damn thing to do with buying a car. You SHOULD ALREADY KNOW your interest rate, and monthly payment, how much you are approved for and geez, have a check in hand from your bank, credit union or other financing source to fill out and pay for the car.
This leads to a second question:
What kind of deal did you get on the loan?
And the only sensible answer to that is, "I got x.xx% for XX months!"
Seriously, if this is at all confusing, then you:
1. Have no business buying a new car, especially an expensive one.
2. Will emerge a financial victim from any car dealership you walk into.
This is a public service announcement brought to you from People Who Can Do Math.
Because so many people who buy cars can't do math.
1st math question: How much is the car? This is the KEY number when buying a car. This is the one you FIGHT for.
2nd math question: How much are the required fees, such as TT&L.
3rd math question: How much are the documentary fees and stuff that the dealer put on to the paper?
The net sum of all this simple math is the Out The Door price of the new car.
Next set of math questions: How much for your trade, if any? This is the second number you FIGHT for.
The OTD price of the car, less the trade in, is the amount you're going to write a check for or finance. In some states, the trade-in value changes the amount of sales tax paid. In other states, it does not.
At this point, this is the end of the transaction and two questions have been answered:
1. What the out-the-door price was?
2. How much did I get for my trade in?
Financing, amount down and per month, hasn't got a damn thing to do with buying a car. You SHOULD ALREADY KNOW your interest rate, and monthly payment, how much you are approved for and geez, have a check in hand from your bank, credit union or other financing source to fill out and pay for the car.
This leads to a second question:
What kind of deal did you get on the loan?
And the only sensible answer to that is, "I got x.xx% for XX months!"
Seriously, if this is at all confusing, then you:
1. Have no business buying a new car, especially an expensive one.
2. Will emerge a financial victim from any car dealership you walk into.
This is a public service announcement brought to you from People Who Can Do Math.