Suggestions For Slicks/partial 19" Is-f
09-15-08, 02:48 PM
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Suggestions For Getting Best Traction Since Slicks Don't Fit On 19" Wheels
My understanding is they don't make slicks for 19" wheels. I think I can only go as low as 18" wheels on my IS-F because of the large brake rotors. Does anyone have suggestions on best way to gain more traction if I can't put Slicks on? Someone mentioned Partial Slicks.. do those help? I just don't want to sit at the start line spinning out. I notice people putting on IS-350 wheels.. does that help? People with IS-F's what have you tried that works the best to gain more traction
?
Out of all the people who have viewed this thread and only one person has advise on this matter! I know there are lots of member's on here that have a great deal of knowledge regarding tires and traction. Can more people please add to this.
?Out of all the people who have viewed this thread and only one person has advise on this matter! I know there are lots of member's on here that have a great deal of knowledge regarding tires and traction. Can more people please add to this.
Last edited by tastemydus; 09-17-08 at 06:26 PM. Reason: try and get more responses
09-15-08, 05:56 PM
#2
My understanding is they don't make slicks for 19" wheels. I think I can only go as low as 18" wheels on my IS-F because of the large brake rotors. Does anyone have suggestions on best way to gain more traction if I can't put Slicks on? Someone mentioned Partial Slicks.. do those help? I just don't want to sit at the start line spinning out. I notice people putting on IS-350 wheels.. does that help? People with IS-F's what have you tried that works the best to gain more traction?
?
09-17-08, 07:00 PM
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275/35/19 BF Goodrich Drag Radial on an IS350 wheel is as close as you're going to get to slicks. Not sure if this puts you into the shift problem at the end of the quarter though. If you could find a 18" x 10" rim that fits, you could run a 295/35/18 DR - but it's slightly larger than stock, so it might be a difficult trade off between gearing and traction.
You're fighting a lot of heat and humidity on Guam. It makes everything slower.
You're fighting a lot of heat and humidity on Guam. It makes everything slower.
09-18-08, 01:53 AM
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any advice on partials
275/35/19 BF Goodrich Drag Radial on an IS350 wheel is as close as you're going to get to slicks. Not sure if this puts you into the shift problem at the end of the quarter though. If you could find a 18" x 10" rim that fits, you could run a 295/35/18 DR - but it's slightly larger than stock, so it might be a difficult trade off between gearing and traction.
You're fighting a lot of heat and humidity on Guam. It makes everything slower.
You're fighting a lot of heat and humidity on Guam. It makes everything slower.
09-19-08, 09:24 PM
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What's a partial slick? Either it has grooves and isn't a slick or it has no grooves only small holes to measure tread depth and it is a slick.
Here's the problem with slicks - you're more likely to do drivetrain damage with slicks because the car wasn't engineered for the kind of traction they generate. The likelihood of breaking an axle or differential is at least twice as high because you've got nearly twice the rubber on the ground (typical street tires have ~50% of their tread in contact with the ground because the grooves take up the other 50% - really great street tires might get all the way to 65%). So, if you run a tire the same width as stock, you'll generate nearly twice the traction because you've got a lot more rubber in contact with the ground. This means each and every part of your driveline that would normally see a spinning tire, now sees pure torque, and torque is what will make a driveline blow up (gearboxs, diffs, and axles couldn't care less about HP, they only care about torque).
So at the end of the day, by making this change, you are imperiling your driveline. Is that what you really want to do?
My typical question at this point is - Do you have another vehicle or a bus pass or a really good pair of shoes? Because you are likely to break something, and getting parts that are not in stock will likely be a pretty good wait (even here in the US it would be challenging to find driveline parts for the IS-F - just a year ago there were no spare 2GR-FSE engines anywhere in the Toyota parts system) so, think about what you really want, and decide if the risk is worth it.
Here's the problem with slicks - you're more likely to do drivetrain damage with slicks because the car wasn't engineered for the kind of traction they generate. The likelihood of breaking an axle or differential is at least twice as high because you've got nearly twice the rubber on the ground (typical street tires have ~50% of their tread in contact with the ground because the grooves take up the other 50% - really great street tires might get all the way to 65%). So, if you run a tire the same width as stock, you'll generate nearly twice the traction because you've got a lot more rubber in contact with the ground. This means each and every part of your driveline that would normally see a spinning tire, now sees pure torque, and torque is what will make a driveline blow up (gearboxs, diffs, and axles couldn't care less about HP, they only care about torque).
So at the end of the day, by making this change, you are imperiling your driveline. Is that what you really want to do?
My typical question at this point is - Do you have another vehicle or a bus pass or a really good pair of shoes? Because you are likely to break something, and getting parts that are not in stock will likely be a pretty good wait (even here in the US it would be challenging to find driveline parts for the IS-F - just a year ago there were no spare 2GR-FSE engines anywhere in the Toyota parts system) so, think about what you really want, and decide if the risk is worth it.
09-21-08, 08:30 AM
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Thanks For the Info
What's a partial slick? Either it has grooves and isn't a slick or it has no grooves only small holes to measure tread depth and it is a slick.
Here's the problem with slicks - you're more likely to do drivetrain damage with slicks because the car wasn't engineered for the kind of traction they generate. The likelihood of breaking an axle or differential is at least twice as high because you've got nearly twice the rubber on the ground (typical street tires have ~50% of their tread in contact with the ground because the grooves take up the other 50% - really great street tires might get all the way to 65%). So, if you run a tire the same width as stock, you'll generate nearly twice the traction because you've got a lot more rubber in contact with the ground. This means each and every part of your driveline that would normally see a spinning tire, now sees pure torque, and torque is what will make a driveline blow up (gearboxs, diffs, and axles couldn't care less about HP, they only care about torque).
So at the end of the day, by making this change, you are imperiling your driveline. Is that what you really want to do?
My typical question at this point is - Do you have another vehicle or a bus pass or a really good pair of shoes? Because you are likely to break something, and getting parts that are not in stock will likely be a pretty good wait (even here in the US it would be challenging to find driveline parts for the IS-F - just a year ago there were no spare 2GR-FSE engines anywhere in the Toyota parts system) so, think about what you really want, and decide if the risk is worth it.
Here's the problem with slicks - you're more likely to do drivetrain damage with slicks because the car wasn't engineered for the kind of traction they generate. The likelihood of breaking an axle or differential is at least twice as high because you've got nearly twice the rubber on the ground (typical street tires have ~50% of their tread in contact with the ground because the grooves take up the other 50% - really great street tires might get all the way to 65%). So, if you run a tire the same width as stock, you'll generate nearly twice the traction because you've got a lot more rubber in contact with the ground. This means each and every part of your driveline that would normally see a spinning tire, now sees pure torque, and torque is what will make a driveline blow up (gearboxs, diffs, and axles couldn't care less about HP, they only care about torque).
So at the end of the day, by making this change, you are imperiling your driveline. Is that what you really want to do?
My typical question at this point is - Do you have another vehicle or a bus pass or a really good pair of shoes? Because you are likely to break something, and getting parts that are not in stock will likely be a pretty good wait (even here in the US it would be challenging to find driveline parts for the IS-F - just a year ago there were no spare 2GR-FSE engines anywhere in the Toyota parts system) so, think about what you really want, and decide if the risk is worth it.
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