Originally Posted by lobuxracer

Piffle. My 15 year old Supra has never lived anywhere near the ocean. It looks no different than the day it left the showroom floor. I've seen cars in Florida, in Hawaii (been to Hawaii more times than I can remember), and in the Bay Area. They all show strong evidence of corrosion that doesn't exist in Sacramento or in Atlanta where I live. No amount of washing will prevent corrosion in a salt air environment.

How many 50's cars are there on any island with their original paint and original sheet metal? Doesn't exist. How many are in Sacramento? A lot.

Does everything corrode? YES. Does everything corrode at the same rate under the same conditions? YES. Does location affect the rate of corrosion? Absolutely!

Besides, the problem here isn't really corrosion of the wheel, it's hot metal from the brake pads melting into the clearcoat on the wheels. Ask anyone who runs Hawk Blue track pads about it, they're legendary for jacking up the finish on wheels.

Originally Posted by lobuxracer

No one is going to "prove me wrong." I've been to Hawaii, been to Guam, been to Okinawa, lived on Crete for three years and personally experienced corrosion from the ocean being within a 1/4 mile of my home. When I returned from my three years on Crete I completely disassembled my FJ1100 and had the frame stripped and repainted because every single weld on it had evidence of corrosion. The frame was brand new when the bike left port in Oakland because I had to replace it after an accident. Corrosion showed up within 6 months of arrival. I also had to do corrosion control on an antenna array located a few hundred yards from the beach. It was a constant PITA because no matter what we did, there was ALWAYS corrosion to be cleaned up and repainted.

You live on an island near the ocean. Your car will corrode much faster than it will if you don't. See post above.

Originally Posted by CaThaFeR

17,600 and counting

Originally Posted by is-eF

Unfortunately you missed the key word "Maintenance"!
It seems you either don't maintain your car's finish with quality protection or you don't do it enough in relation to your location.
You basically answered this yourself when you said, "Does everything corrode at the same rate under the same conditions? YES."
So when you maintain your car with superior protection the conditions are no longer the same.
Visiting a location more time than you can count or a lot, does not come close to living in that location.

The same goes with your wheels, if you clean them in relation to the amount of dust on them and apply quality protection you will not experience brake dust corrosion.

I have an '84 Porsche Carrera with the original paint and it still shines better than a lot of contemporary cars now days and it's been in the middle of the Pacific all it's life...man what a little quality protection can do!

However, you have your right to cling to your opinion and live only in areas where your opinion will allow, versus having facts and letting the facts or educated information determine where you can live.

I hear Sacramento is a nice place to live & visit, so really no issue there if you choose to live there or in Atlanta.

Have a Corrosion Free Day, I know I will...Aloha!

Originally Posted by lobuxracer

Paint is only one small item in a corrosion control program. Paint doesn't ensure the body panel isn't rotting from the other side, and even paint can't protect 100%, read my example from my FJ1100. I also worked on aircraft while in the Air Force. I understand the need for maintenance just fine. I know our jets required a full wash after flight over salt water below 5000 feet (and we did it a lot) because the entire aircraft suffered severe corrosion if we didn't. Aircraft maintenance in Hawaii is more expensive than stateside because you have to spend more hours on corrosion control. This is well documented fact. Maybe you remember the Hawaiian Air jet that suffered a catastrophic failure when the top of the fuselage ripped off on landing. It was a result of poor corrosion control.

So you can tell me how pretty your car is after 24 years on your island and it's all fine and good. It doesn't mean I couldn't poke a hole through it with a finger in a place where water tends to collect naturally. And I've seen where water collects on 911 bodies. If you really think there's no corrosion damage to your car, you are kidding yourself. Do you have the original exhaust and is it rust free from the end of the header to the tail pipe? It is on my Supra, and I've not had to do anything to maintain it. Are any of the chassis bolts corroded (the white powder they all get when exposed to salt air?) These are rhetorical questions because I know they are. It's unavoidable.

And back to the original issue - the brake dust burning pits into the wheel finish - eventually it will truly corrode. What you're seeing now is the finish being melted from hot metal expelled by the brakes. Corrosion will start after the hot bits burn all the way through the clear coat and the aluminum is exposed to air and water.

Originally Posted by lobuxracer

Yeah I see your point. I also see how I haven't had to touch my exhaust and it looks factory new 15 years later. So does every other nut and bolt.

If you use your brakes hard, you will have brake dust burning into the clearcoat. It's unavoidable. You can remove the dust if you clean the wheels immediately, but it will still damage the finish. Hawk's blue track pads are famous for ruining wheels. They're awesome pads for the track, but they are so brutal on wheels it isn't even a joke. If the pads on the IS-F have a high metal content, they're going to burn pits in the clearcoat, again, no escaping it. I'd bet money anyone in Houston who does the infamous high speed runs they're known for already knows this.

Originally Posted by tastemydus

Dealership is still trying to weasel way out of replacing rims so I took it to the same detailing shop I always go to but this time I had them use a clay bar(after I read about it in another thread). They had some spray they kept wetting the clay bar with and I should have had them take off the wheels to access all areas, but I would say that they got about 90% of the brake dust off. After they used the clay bar they waxed them with ReJex and let it sit for an hour then wiped them clean. I also did a lot of research on this topic incase I have to go toe to toe with the dealer and I found out that all of us should have been putting 2 or 3 coats of wax on our wheels from day one. This prevents anything clinging to wheel and that's the best way to prevent any sort of build up. The wax bar works wonders, but couldn't get below tire valve or inside area where lug nuts are which is why I recommend taking off your tire. They had to use a good amount of effort to get brake dust off, but my wheels looked like they did when I first bought my car. I think tirerack.com has wheel cleaning kit and I think it comes with clay bar. I think you have to order Rejex online if you can't buy it at detail shop. I told dealership that most, but not all build up bumbling was brake dust, some was still corrosion and that they should educate their customers on wheel care and give them wheel cleaning kit since the wheels are so freaking expensive. It was also recommended that you spray this stuff called Stay Fresh on wheels every night and then hose off for daily maintenance. It is sad when I have to teach the dealership what the best way is to take care of wheels. Google is the best thing on earth. . Ok so i agree it is all about proper maintenance which is what I had to inform the dealership. I am sorry that I am not an expert on taking care of 3000 dollar wheels but I would have thought my dealer would know. I mean they have you scheduled for all sorts of maintenance but none for your wheels so I suggested to them that they maybe give a wheel cleaning kit to all new car owners and teach them how to PROPERLY maintain their wheels. I thought by taking it to the best detail shop in Guam they would know what to do and they would do it, but that is what I get for assuming both the dealership and the detail shop for one, knew how to PROPERLY maintain wheels(They suggested Rejex about 4 months too late) and two would either educate their customer before purchasing vehicle or as for the detail shop do whatever is necessary(such as using clay bar). The detail shop never suggested a clay bar and the dealership didn't know the first thing about how to remove brake dust. As far as corrosion goes it is covered under warranty but I have to prove it is corrosion caused naturally not by me!

Here is website to order Rejex online and the other link is to FAQ's about Rejex:

http://www.pacificcorrosion.com/productCat83687.ctlg
http://www.corrosionx.com/rejexFAQ.html

Originally Posted by larrysb

The dust and the noise comes from the fact these pads are high performance pads.

Just a fact of life.

GM/Delco makes ceramic pads for Corvettes. They don't stop as good, but they are quieter and don't dust as much.

I don't know if the ISF caliper is oddball or not, but you might check with a Brembo dealer to find out if they make a ceramic compound or low-dusting street use pads that will fit.

Haven't pulled them off, but it would probably take 10 minutes a wheel to swap the pads.

No need to fool with the rotors.

There are lots of brake pad formulas for different uses.

Originally Posted by dkaplan435

^^ ditto. My M3 had the same problem, lots of dust, lots of stopping power. IS-F no different.

Originally Posted by is-eF

Well it's about time you see my point!
It's all about maintenance...just like your airplanes...maintenance.
And no, you or anyone else would not be able poke a hole through my panels, because they are not rusted, due to maintenance.
As for my exhaust, yes you are correct it is showing rust because I don't maintain it with protection.
All I'm saying is IF you have good protection maintenance rust will not be a factor in Hawaii anymore than it would be in Sacramento. It may need more maintenance, but the issue of rust will have been answered.

Back to the original issue, if you maintain...key word again, so follow me here, you will NOT have brake dust burning pits into your clearcoat finish on your rims.

Originally Posted by PHXDiesel

You are stuck on your pointless topic and fail to understand that your beloved "maintenance" habits are not going to prevent etching of your wheels. Have you ever seen a video from the side of a high performance car while braking hard? Small sparks come out of the wheels. Sparks can melt through stuff. Imagine that. If you want maintenance, stop driving like ricky racer around town and you wouldn't have as much of a problem. But that isn't why we buy these cars is it?

To Chikken: Lexus didn't skimp on the pads. If you've ever had a true set of high-perf pads you'd understand. Hawk for instance even warns of these exact symptons.