JoeZ Exhaust + Intake Dyno = +26 RWHP +19 RWTQ SAE
02-14-09, 06:32 PM
#31
- No cooling period before dyno run
- Only maybe 80 miles since the Air Filter was installed and the ECU reset
- High humidity
- Gremlins
So hopefully another run should be taken care of all this...
02-14-09, 08:39 PM
#32
Why/how did the air/fuel ratio change? Does simply changing the air intake make the car run leaner? Or is the larger diameter where the MAP sensor attaches to the intake tube fooling the computer in thinking that there is actually less O2 going in?
Honestly, I don't think a 30 minute cooling down will improve performance. Even at the drag strip, for me, hot lapping gives me the best times and if I can't hot lap, my first run after arriving at the strip is usually the best run (no engine cooling down period).
Honestly, I don't think a 30 minute cooling down will improve performance. Even at the drag strip, for me, hot lapping gives me the best times and if I can't hot lap, my first run after arriving at the strip is usually the best run (no engine cooling down period).
02-14-09, 10:20 PM
#33
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Nice Work!!!!
Nice Work Jerome!! 
During R&D testing the intake pipe had an approx 5 rwhp gain over our base / stock IS-F.
We left the oem filter in place and charcoal filter as well... and there was NO ecu reset.
Typically with the nice gains you achieved with the exhaust, it might not make a whole lot more after adding the intake.
Heat soak may have been your issue... I am hoping your re-dyno shows the results you like....
Also, I strongly recommend a minimum of 200 miles after an ECU reset...
If not, I would highly consider re-installing the oem filter and charcoal filter in your next dyno session...
Very Glad your Dyno numbers are still going in the upwards trend!!!
Joe Z
During R&D testing the intake pipe had an approx 5 rwhp gain over our base / stock IS-F.
We left the oem filter in place and charcoal filter as well... and there was NO ecu reset.
Typically with the nice gains you achieved with the exhaust, it might not make a whole lot more after adding the intake.
Heat soak may have been your issue... I am hoping your re-dyno shows the results you like....
Also, I strongly recommend a minimum of 200 miles after an ECU reset...
If not, I would highly consider re-installing the oem filter and charcoal filter in your next dyno session...
Very Glad your Dyno numbers are still going in the upwards trend!!!
Joe Z
02-14-09, 10:36 PM
#34
Yes it goes up, torque is nice, overall the combination Exhaust/Intake is now better balanced, the noise is more pleasant with less whine and a more throaty rasp between 3k and 4k rpm.
Anyway, the adventure continues...
02-15-09, 06:51 AM
#36
Last edited by caymandive; 02-15-09 at 07:07 AM.
02-16-09, 05:15 PM
#38
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/clu...-for-is-f.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/clu...e-08-is-f.html
Any I don't know about anyone????
Colin.
02-16-09, 08:05 PM
#39
I honestly think getting Volk RE30s is a pretty good upgrade too. Not very cost effective, but losing 40 pounds of rotating mass does pretty good. First of all, 40 pounds is 1% of overall weight so that's like having 1% more HP so gain of 4-5 hp from the lower weight. Second, lower rotating mass has more effect than just weight loss - can't remember the formulas and stuff from physics, but I think I've got at least a 10 rwp gain over a stock IS-F using my Volk RE30s.
Last edited by ToothDoc; 02-16-09 at 08:23 PM.
02-16-09, 08:24 PM
#40
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I honestly think getting Volk RE30s is a pretty good upgrade too. Not very cost effective, but losing 40 pounds of rotating mass does pretty good. First of all, 40 pounds is 1% of overall weight so that's like having 1% more HP so gain of 4-5 hp from the lower weight. Second, lower rotating mass has more effect than just weight loss - can't remember the formulas and stuff from physics, but I think I've got at least a 10 rwp gain over a stock IS-F using my Volk RE30s.
You forgot about the SRT intake with the "chip" to lean out the car a little. I believe that was good for a decent amount of HP (based on the dyno).
You forgot about the SRT intake with the "chip" to lean out the car a little. I believe that was good for a decent amount of HP (based on the dyno).
02-16-09, 09:08 PM
#43
Yes, I'd say you've forgot the physics. Lighter parts do not add hp to anything. They reduce inertia and they make the car act like it has more power, but in reality, it doesn't make any more power than it did with the heavy wheels. It just gets to speed more quickly.
Holy cow! I have forgotten my physics!! You're correct. However, wouldn't the reduction in inertia of the wheels yield a higher RWP at a dyno? A hub dyno gives a higher HP than a wheel dyno due to intertia and frictional losses. Not because it's actually making more power, but because power is transferred to that giant metal drum with less loss from the wheels itself. Heck, I'd imagine it takes a decent amount of HP to get 40 pounds of rim to spin up to 170 mph.
02-16-09, 09:27 PM
#44
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02-16-09, 09:51 PM
#45
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Holy cow! I have forgotten my physics!! You're correct. However, wouldn't the reduction in inertia of the wheels yield a higher RWP at a dyno? A hub dyno gives a higher HP than a wheel dyno due to intertia and frictional losses. Not because it's actually making more power, but because power is transferred to that giant metal drum with less loss from the wheels itself. Heck, I'd imagine it takes a decent amount of HP to get 40 pounds of rim to spin up to 170 mph.