JoeZ Exhaust + Intake Dyno = +26 RWHP +19 RWTQ SAE
02-20-09, 09:15 PM
#61
Pole Position
Installed my Joe Z cat-back system tonight. As others have said, it really fit together nice. I had only two problems. (1) I had trouble removing one of the O2 sensors (it galled) and (2) it took me a little while to figure out how to get the Lexus system off the hangers. Took about 1.5 - 2.0 hours overall.
It sounds Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. Also seems quicker though hard to tell.
Thanks for developing a nice system Joe Z.
Pat
It sounds Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. Also seems quicker though hard to tell.
Thanks for developing a nice system Joe Z.
Pat
02-20-09, 09:17 PM
#62
If that were the case it would only last a few minutes at best. The primary O2 sensors are wideband, not narrowband, and there are a/f targets based on load. The MAF give a primary input for injector pulsewidth, but it is corrected by short term and long term fuel trim based on observed a/f compared to anticipated a/f. So, unless the change put the correction factor all the way to the +20% limit, the ECM would just retune the correction and apply it to all fuel values - even at WOT - because despite running open loop at WOT, the LT + ST fuel trim values still get applied.
I'm glad you're here to give us more technical info. So you're saying there is a 20% correction factor. So lets say the stock intake is 3 inches and the Joe Z if 4 inches. The intake cross sectional difference is 1.5^2 vs. 2^2 or 2.25 vs. 4 which is more than a 20% increase.
The reason I'm so curious is that I find it sooo hard to believe that a slightly smoother pipe AFTER the air filter could give so much HP. I feel like the air trying to get past the filter and past those little ports into each cylinder individually is more the limiting factor than the intake tube. I'm not doubting small HP gains, but significant gains? There's gotta be something going on and the fact that the A/F ratio IS leaner.
02-21-09, 06:53 AM
#63
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Installed my Joe Z cat-back system tonight. As others have said, it really fit together nice. I had only two problems. (1) I had trouble removing one of the O2 sensors (it galled) and (2) it took me a little while to figure out how to get the Lexus system off the hangers. Took about 1.5 - 2.0 hours overall.
It sounds Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. Also seems quicker though hard to tell.
Thanks for developing a nice system Joe Z.
Pat
It sounds Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. Also seems quicker though hard to tell.
Thanks for developing a nice system Joe Z.
Pat
Glad to hear its finally on... Looking forward to your complete Base, Tuned & Exhaust + Tuned results..
We have some solid results with Dyno's from Peter & Jerome comparing their Base IS-F to the Exhaust installed....
Joe Z
02-21-09, 07:02 AM
#64
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Seems that the stock oem filter is the way to go right now..
I hear Blitz Japan has developed a drop in filter as well for the IS-F.
It should be interesting to see how that will do on the dyno in the near future.
I am not sure if having your charcoal filter removed affected any of your results or A/F, but none the less you got to the 375 rwhp mark..
That's fantastic!!
Joe Z
02-21-09, 07:42 AM
#65
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******** Post 3,500 ********
The reason I'm so curious is that I find it sooo hard to believe that a slightly smoother pipe AFTER the air filter could give so much HP. I feel like the air trying to get past the filter and past those little ports into each cylinder individually is more the limiting factor than the intake tube. I'm not doubting small HP gains, but significant gains?
Not only is the pipe smoother which creates less turbulence, but the air resonator on the top side of the oem intake pipe is gone as well.
I have designed this intake for every IS model since 2002...
Just some side facts:
In 2002 we dyno'd the IS300: 7 rwhp max gains
In 2006 we dyno'd the IS250: 6 rwhp max gains (see '08 F-Sport intake)
In 2006 we dyno'd the IS350: 5 rwhp max gains (see '08 F-Sport intake)
In 2008 we dyno'd the IS - F: 5 rwhp max gains
All independently tested of course. All on the same dyno through the years.
These are on the minimal side of rwhp gains, but that's the whole idea behind the concept.
Decent gains with a slightly more robust sound from the intake department..
Thank You
Joe Z
02-21-09, 10:22 AM
#70
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Installed my Joe Z cat-back system tonight. As others have said, it really fit together nice. I had only two problems. (1) I had trouble removing one of the O2 sensors (it galled) and (2) it took me a little while to figure out how to get the Lexus system off the hangers. Took about 1.5 - 2.0 hours overall.
It sounds Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. Also seems quicker though hard to tell.
Thanks for developing a nice system Joe Z.
Pat
It sounds Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet. Also seems quicker though hard to tell.
Thanks for developing a nice system Joe Z.
Pat
Did you have the proper 02 sensor install tool?
Glad to hear you like it. I'm waiting for March to install mine and am trying to anticipate any potential issues with its install.
I'm also looking forward to your complete Base, Tuned & Exhaust + Tuned results..
Cheers
Colin.
02-21-09, 11:15 AM
#72
Pole Position
ISFer,
Yes, I used the proper tool. Both the old coupling and the O2 sensor galled. I took a dremel tool with a real fine cut-off disk and cleaned up the burrs off the sensor before I reinstalled it into the new connections.
I have a question for Joe Z and others who have done this. How do you disconnect the O2 sensor from it's connector. There is a rubber boot where it goes into the underside of the vehicle. When I pulled this boot down the wiring went further up into the body cavity. It would have been much easier if I could have disconnected each of the sensors. Luckly I had my son and my grandson helping so they could hold the exhaust up after it was disconnected from the CATs while I disconnected the O2 sensors.
One reason it may have galled is that the exhaust was a little warm. I would suggest letting the exhaust get totally cooled or you could run water over the O2 sensor and exhaust pipe until it is totally cool.
The only other thing that was not too obvious is the way that the original exhaust is removed from the hangers. There is a conical cap on the end of each hanger where the rubber hangers slide on and are retained. We ended up spraying the rubber and hanger with lubricant and then prying the rubber hanger off the rod with the cap. Joe Z can probably tell us if there is an easier way than what we did. We essetially "brute forced" it.
Pat
Yes, I used the proper tool. Both the old coupling and the O2 sensor galled. I took a dremel tool with a real fine cut-off disk and cleaned up the burrs off the sensor before I reinstalled it into the new connections.
I have a question for Joe Z and others who have done this. How do you disconnect the O2 sensor from it's connector. There is a rubber boot where it goes into the underside of the vehicle. When I pulled this boot down the wiring went further up into the body cavity. It would have been much easier if I could have disconnected each of the sensors. Luckly I had my son and my grandson helping so they could hold the exhaust up after it was disconnected from the CATs while I disconnected the O2 sensors.
One reason it may have galled is that the exhaust was a little warm. I would suggest letting the exhaust get totally cooled or you could run water over the O2 sensor and exhaust pipe until it is totally cool.
The only other thing that was not too obvious is the way that the original exhaust is removed from the hangers. There is a conical cap on the end of each hanger where the rubber hangers slide on and are retained. We ended up spraying the rubber and hanger with lubricant and then prying the rubber hanger off the rod with the cap. Joe Z can probably tell us if there is an easier way than what we did. We essetially "brute forced" it.
Pat
02-21-09, 12:23 PM
#73
(...)I have a question for Joe Z and others who have done this. How do you disconnect the O2 sensor from it's connector. There is a rubber boot where it goes into the underside of the vehicle. When I pulled this boot down the wiring went further up into the body cavity. It would have been much easier if I could have disconnected each of the sensors. (...)
(...)The only other thing that was not too obvious is the way that the original exhaust is removed from the hangers. There is a conical cap on the end of each hanger where the rubber hangers slide on and are retained. We ended up spraying the rubber and hanger with lubricant and then prying the rubber hanger off the rod with the cap. Joe Z can probably tell us if there is an easier way than what we did. We essentially "brute forced" it.(...)
