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More information - after perusing all the various seals, o-rings, and other consumables, I have a parts list for this task. It's not small. It includes everything you would need for a valve lash inspection because you're going to be taking off all that stuff just to get to the timing cover. You might have to remove the intake manifold as well - the FSM says yes, but I am doubtful. Regardless, if you have the valley plate leak, you're going to find it if you do this task. At any rate, here's the parts list including the part identified in the European TSB:
Some might call this overkill. Depending on your mileage, it might not be all bad to replace the timing chains, slippers, and tensioners. I would suggest doing a leak down test before starting this adventure to be sure the basic health of the engine is good.
Parts are still on order. I will update this thread when I complete the work. If I can, I will take pictures and create a separate thread like the valley plate thread showing the what, why, and how.
Parts are still on order. I will update this thread when I complete the work. If I can, I will take pictures and create a separate thread like the valley plate thread showing the what, why, and how.
I’ve been running it for a week now, at temps far below freezing and I can now confirm that running Mobil 1 0w30 engine oil has eliminated ALL the abnormal noise on cold start ups in my 2008 ISF 👍👍
Sucks I just installed the supercharger and now have to take everything apart again to replace the stupid tensioner and whatever else is bad.
It was more intermittent like the original video in this thread. The car had whatever 5w30 dyno oil Toyota puts in. I changed to the expensive 5w30 Mobil 1 synthetic last night in hopes that it would get rid of the issue and it got much worse.
Sucks I just installed the supercharger and now have to take everything apart again to replace the stupid tensioner and whatever else is bad.
It was more intermittent like the original video in this thread. The car had whatever 5w30 dyno oil Toyota puts in. I changed to the expensive 5w30 Mobil 1 synthetic last night in hopes that it would get rid of the issue and it got much worse.
Honestly I think Mobil 1 makes it worse not better. 0w-30 Mobil 1 was slightly better than 5w-30. Renewable Lubricants 5w-30 PCMO SHP beats the snot out of Mobil 1 for reducing the noise and tests out way better than Mobil 1 when I send it to Blackstone.
That said, this sounds severe, and more like the cam phasing motor is broken. No DTCs or MIL? As bad as that sounds I would expect some kind of DTC. There's also a small possibility the filter in the valve cover got clogged somehow and the OCV for the exhaust cam is not functioning correctly. Sucks big time that you just got the SC on there and this started. My starter crapped out when I put in a new LiFePo4 battery - no fault of the battery, just coincidence...so I feel your pain.
I have all the parts to do the tensioner/cam chain replacement (for both sides) waiting for my 180k mile valve lash inspection. It would have been here soon, but I am hardly driving anywhere now (which really sucks because 93 octane is under $2.50 a gallon here), so it's waiting patiently on the shelf. Because the job is as involved as it is, I plan to reseal the valley plate at the same time. Taking off the timing cover isn't a small task.
Well bottom line, you should be able to run any oil you want and not have any noise.
I am getting a P0017 and I don't know specifically what triggers it. It says crankshaft position - Camshaft position correlation (bank 1 sensor B) Exhaust cam specifically. Whether or not it's actually the cam phaser that went bad or due to the chain slapping/noise, or both I don't know.
Generically, google says:If there is a problem with the synchronization of your crankshaft and camshaft, the vehicle will suffer from many obvious symptoms, including:
Very poor performance
Difficulty starting the vehicle
A rattling noise while running
That's exactly what's going on. There was a TSB for the IS250 and 350 for bad phasers. I guess I will know more when I get the cover off. If I clear the code it comes back right away so there's definitely more going on than just a bad tensioner.
I got this far and gave up. I was hoping the front cover would pop off without fully removing the valve covers, but that's a no go. Tomorrow I'll pull the valve covers. I have to do those gaskets anyways.
Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Honestly I think Mobil 1 makes it worse not better. 0w-30 Mobil 1 was slightly better than 5w-30. Renewable Lubricants 5w-30 PCMO SHP beats the snot out of Mobil 1 for reducing the noise and tests out way better than Mobil 1 when I send it to Blackstone.
That said, this sounds severe, and more like the cam phasing motor is broken. No DTCs or MIL? As bad as that sounds I would expect some kind of DTC. There's also a small possibility the filter in the valve cover got clogged somehow and the OCV for the exhaust cam is not functioning correctly. Sucks big time that you just got the SC on there and this started. My starter crapped out when I put in a new LiFePo4 battery - no fault of the battery, just coincidence...so I feel your pain.
I have all the parts to do the tensioner/cam chain replacement (for both sides) waiting for my 180k mile valve lash inspection. It would have been here soon, but I am hardly driving anywhere now (which really sucks because 93 octane is under $2.50 a gallon here), so it's waiting patiently on the shelf. Because the job is as involved as it is, I plan to reseal the valley plate at the same time. Taking off the timing cover isn't a small task.
07-16-19 | 10:03 AM
