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So the exhaust cam timing is not what the crank position is expecting. The OCV for the exhaust could be clogged as a result of your oil brand change, or the filter in the valve cover could be clogged because the Mobil 1 broke a varnish deposit loose, or...
MAYBE the tensioner is not working, but it depends on an oil feed from the oil pump to do this. Seriously, if the noise is louder when you remove the oil fill cap, then, YES, you're probably suffering the same issue I am as noted in my video. If this is NOT the case, you're going to spend a lot of time and effort in a dry hole. Wouldn't want you to suffer that fate, so do some diagnostics to be sure before you pull your engine apart hoping to find a failed tensioner. It might be as simple as removing the valve cover and cleaning the filter that feeds the OCV so it can work properly. Way easier than removing the timing cover by a very long shot.
Well bottom line, you should be able to run any oil you want and not have any noise.
You are seriously dreaming here.
Originally Posted by LILEVO
I am getting a P0017 and I don't know specifically what triggers it. It says crankshaft position - Camshaft position correlation (bank 1 sensor B) Exhaust cam specifically. Whether or not it's actually the cam phaser that went bad or due to the chain slapping/noise, or both I don't know.
TIS says it's a problem with the exhaust cam.
Originally Posted by LILEVO
Generically, google says:If there is a problem with the synchronization of your crankshaft and camshaft, the vehicle will suffer from many obvious symptoms, including:
Very poor performance
Difficulty starting the vehicle
A rattling noise while running
That's exactly what's going on. There was a TSB for the IS250 and 350 for bad phasers. I guess I will know more when I get the cover off. If I clear the code it comes back right away so there's definitely more going on than just a bad tensioner.
Google knows little about a 2UR-GSE.
Originally Posted by LILEVO
I got this far and gave up. I was hoping the front cover would pop off without fully removing the valve covers, but that's a no go. Tomorrow I'll pull the valve covers. I have to do those gaskets anyways.
"There was a TSB for the IS250 and 350 for bad phasers."
No there wasn't. That LSB was for bad cam timing pulleys, not phasers. The 2UR-GSE is UNIQUE because it uses electrically operated intake cam timing PHASERS where the 2GR-FSE uses simple oil controlled cam drive sprockets. They went through 5 generations of redesigns and still never got it right. AMHIK. It was the thing that pushed me over the edge to get the IS F!
If you're attempting this without the factory manual via TIS, you're doomed to fail. Spend the $15 and get 2 day access so at least you'll know what the factory approach to solving this is. In lieu of this, look at my thread on valve lash inspection because removing the valve covers is fundamental to success if you plan to measure the valve lash.
Much worse than I thought. Crank is shot. Front timing chain gear is cracked. When I turned the crank by hand only bank 2 gear/chain was spinning. Luckily it stayed together until that point. Time for a new engine or part out.
Much worse than I thought. Crank is shot. Front timing chain gear is cracked. When I turned the crank by hand only bank 2 gear/chain was spinning. Luckily it stayed together until that point. Time for a new engine or part out.
Damn that's crazy! Good luck on everything else bro. I wonder how that happened?
Got the gears off. Going to order new parts and will crack out the welder and try to rebuild the area using the new parts for alignment and fitment. Will try some loctite 660 afterwards, slap it back together it give it a go.
Got the gears off. Going to order new parts and will crack out the welder and try to rebuild the area using the new parts for alignment and fitment. Will try some loctite 660 afterwards, slap it back together it give it a go.
Be sure to drop the pan and clean out all the metal bits there before starting up again, and for sure a new oil filter is mandatory. I'd also check the gerotors in both oil pumps for scarring or damage. The scavenge pump is unlikely, but the main oil pump in the back of the timing cover gets fed directly through the pickup tube with only a screen to keep out the big chunks. Best of luck with the keyway repair, at least its only critical in that it drives the cams, it isn't used for crank position so you can be a little off and still have good cam timing. The 2JZ isn't nearly so forgiving.
I didn't think it was. Is there documentation on that?
There's nothing documented about it being non-interference. I'd actually be surprised if that's the case with the compression ratio we have. Pull the valve covers and look for evidence there.
Spent some time on it this weekend. Planning on putting everything back together, parts should be here tomorrow. Really pleased with how the keyway turned out. Need a little more time on it, but it's pretty close. It sits solid in there and is in line with the front key.
Looks like it should be OK. Keep in mind the key and keyway are not loaded in service if the damper and sprockets are sufficiently tight. They're there to ensure the sprocket stays indexed during the tightening process.
Spent some time on it this weekend. Planning on putting everything back together, parts should be here tomorrow. Really pleased with how the keyway turned out. Need a little more time on it, but it's pretty close. It sits solid in there and is in line with the front key.
Millermatic 211 and 1/4 diamond point bits with a die grinder. One tap of the trigger, then fit the key, grind and refit until it sat straight, repeat.
03-30-20, 12:41 AM
