I just caught up reading this thread, has there been any new information or further confirmations on how to treat this via replacing the chain tensioner?

 

I stopped short of replacing all the timing parts after switching oils. Mobil 1 just doesn't work well. Renewable Lubricants does work well, and I almost never hear this noise anymore. I'm over 110k miles with this now.

 

I ditched Mobil 1 in 2009 and I have never looked back since.

201k miles and over 100k have solely been on Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum.

Only thing I've encountered for the timing system is the replacement of the Left VVTiE cam motor. That itself isn't oil related but is effecting a lot of 2URs (both LS and IS) that see a lot of heat.

 

Going to give this a try within the next couple of weeks, just so happens I am going to be due for maintenance.

 

Lowbux,

I noticed the metal clicking sound just like yours after the installation of the Lightweight Crank Pulley set from RR Racing and first thought that the noise was the new crank pulley or idler pulley installed wrong (the tensioner was also replaced as preventative maintenance when I did the pulley set). After realizing that it wasn't the new pulley combo from RR Racing making that noise and that it was emanating from the cam motor area. I realized that it sounded just like your video, identical in fact where it would oscillate off and on seeming to go and come back with no set interval. It was only upon start up after the initial high rpm start up where the tachometer rises above 1k rpm for a few then the idle settles down to the normal idle speed is when the clacking of the timing chain (I'm assuming) was clanking around and was quite loud.

I doesn't happen all the time though sometimes when I start it up I hear nothing?🤷‍♂️........So I've kind of ignored it for the most part but started on a rabbit trail reading some threads about it so I thought I'd post my experience so far. I have not pulled the oil cap off when the car is idling which I will try tonight and see if the noise gets louder if it exhibits the noise and report back.

The car runs amazing and haven't noticed any loss in performance but am curious now as to your experience with replacing your cam motor and realizing the increase in MPG's by about 10% is significant so don't know if my cam motor (drivers side) is on it's way out or it's oil related? I switched to QSFS per RAT's blog as it's his highest ranked motor oil for film strength and have been happy with that oil.

That being said why do you think the 2UR likes certain types of oil and not others? How does the difference in base oil (whether synthetic stock base or mineral base) and additive package agree or not agree with our engines like what you experienced with Mobil 1?

 

I can't answer complex questions about additive packages. I don't have anything like the necessary data to compare oils, and the oil companies have no interest in telling us what's really in their oils. All I can do is relay what my experiences are with the oil I am running. I am pretty convinced Mobil 1 is NOT compatible with Lexus engines from my own experience and from the experience of people I know and trust. That's about all I can say about that.

 

hi Salil would u mind sent the workorder to me as well, my car also making the same ticking noise at this moment email: 961631736@qq.com

 

The crux of this is he drove it with a (SUPERCHARGER) loose harmonic bolt, chewed out the timing chain keyway and (with a lot of luck and perseverance) fixed it not for the weak and I forget the rest cheers. PS someone put this in the harmonic thread please.

 

Mostly correct, but replace, "luck" with "skill". The car was also just idling, not driving. If it were driving there probably would have been valve and piston damage.

The car is still running fine and the crank is intact 6000 miles later. It's the same repair any high level, competent shop would perform.

 

When I worked in a machine shop, I did a few of these. No magic at all, just patience, good welding, and careful reshaping. Never seen one done right that had a problem. I don't personally recommend a number of the epoxy based solutions I've seen on YouTube, but truth be told, the key is only there to align the sprocket on installation. Once the crank bolt is properly tightened, you don't need the key at all. It's strictly there for reference on installation of the drive sprocket and damper.