ToothDoc

Hey guys, since my track day, my brakes are feeling a bit weird these days. When I start up the car in the morning, the brakes are like fully depressed. You know, when you go to start the ignition, you have to press the brakes and push the start button. On my car, when I press the brakes, they don't go down hardly anymore. Once the car starts up, the brakes move back UP.

Why is that? Could I have air bubbles in the line? Wouldn't air bubbles simply make it feel more spongier? My brakes don't feel spongy at all.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Bleed your brakes.

CircuitMS

iTrader: (51)

Yeah definitely bleed the brakes.

Check your lines as well. And take a look at the pads and rotors, see how much pad you have left.

ToothDoc

So, the suggestion sounds simple - but for somebody that's never done it, I'm guessing it goes something like this. I'm assuming there is a nut on the brakes that I need to loosen - but not completely unscrew. Then I press the brakes and after then I just tighten the screw? Any way to collect the fluid so I don't make a mess and how much bleeding do I need to do? Do you do 1 brake at a time? Do you keep the car completely shut off during this procedure? Any help would be appreciated.

IS-Fly168

iTrader: (1)

just bring it back to the dealer and obviously dont tell them you tracked the car. should be covered..

kt22cliff

http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_brake_bleed.shtml

Obviously the above link is for a BMW but the process is same minus the fluid reservoir/bleed valve location etc. Make sure you bleed the caliper that is located most away from the reservoir first. In the BMW case, reservoir is on front driver side, so you bleed passenger rear caliper first then driver rear etc etc. You will need 2 people if you manually bleed the brakes or if you have the pressure bleeder like the link above you can do it by yourself. Probably best if you don't do this alone first time around. Maybe you can ask someone who knows or done it before so you can help/watch and then next time around you could do it alone with a pressure bleeder.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Buy four Solobleeders. Replace the bleeder on each of the brakes. Get a 2 or 3 foot piece of 3/16" vinyl tube from Lowe's or Home Depot. Loosen the bleeder one turn. Put the hose on the bleeder. Pump the brake pedal 5 or 6 times or until the bubbles stop coming out and the fluid looks new (not brown and burned). Tighten the bleeder and be sure the brake fluid reservoir is still full. The slowest part of the process is taking the wheels off. This took me about 45 minutes at the track start to finish without any power tools. Add 15 minutes to change the pads on all four corners.

Joe Z

iTrader: (10)

^^ Hey Lance..

Do will still recommend using a small block of wood under the brake pedal, to avoid dead pedaling during bleeding??


Joe Z

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

It's a good idea. I've just developed a habit of using less than full stroke when I bleed.