When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yes, but nothing more than thinking about it. At this point, the OEM style rotors are so cheap it's difficult to justify the expense of two piece rotors.
I didn't say 2 piece. My slotted rotors are one piece.
Afraid someone would ask that They are Adams Rotors - I WILL NEVER BUY FROM THEM AGAIN! With that being said the rotors are doing very well for me. Over the years the hat painting issue has turned into a non problem. Their packaging is truly sub par. The rotors are shipped in boxes that are too small and not meant for heavy stuff. They arrived in terrible condition.
Again, I will reiterate. I have no love for Adams Rotors and they know it. But, my Adams rotors are serviceable. They are still in service, are true and are wearing very well. Because of the crappy customer service I will never use them again, nor will I ever buy stock drilled rotors. I went from stock rotors because of the drilled design. I too, didn't want to be checking for cracks. My Adams rotors are slotted. There is a reason that the RCF and GSF now use slotted rotors.
Because of their design, stock rotors are definitely NOT the best.
Just curious if you installed these with new rotors?
I believe I was one of the first to purchase a set of these from Matt sometime in late '14 or early '15. Before I had the opportunity to install them, a (seriously) good friend was in need of brakes all around on his '11 F. We installed the MX-72's all around with a fresh set of Brembo's (or whomever actually manufactures them, I know the drill) purchased off eBay. This was the third set of OEM style F rotors of this manufacturer, purchased from the same seller.
All I can say is these pads have worn like iron (the front rotors have taken a bit of hit with approximately 28k on the set), are quiet as a church mouse, substantially less dust than the OEM pads, and definitely work well when there is some heat in them. I will not hesitate to buy another set sometime in the future when I get back to putting some miles on the F. As has been stated, cost is prohibitive compared to many other offerings, but I am pretty impressed with these.
yes, I installed them with brand new brembo rotors.... the same same ones that everyone buys from eBay.
i ended up determining that the sound was coming from the rears so I took them apart and regressed them. The bad news is that I ran out of OEM grease so I had to use some CRC stuff from AutoZone. The good news is, about 60% of the noise is gone now. I have since ordered more OEM grease and will probably tear the brakes apart again to regrease them using the correct stuff. Hopefully that will eliminate all the noise.
My rear rotors lasted 120k miles and a half dozen track weekends with Carbotech XP10s in them. The rear rotors never get substantially hot. Ever. I've been through 5 sets of front rotors, and mostly for cracking, not for thickness. Currently on Raybestos, and there is no substantive difference between them and genuine Lexus rotors.
Thx both you and Lou for the info... Looks like my Brembo front rotors will be in Friday, along with which I'll replace my front and rear pads.
RR Racing states they improve rear bias with their 4-pot rear kit, reducing front temps and increasing rear temps accordingly by ~100F... Any of you heavy-track guys try this?
I have since ordered more OEM grease and will probably tear the brakes apart again to regrease them using the correct stuff. Hopefully that will eliminate all the noise.
RR Racing states they improve rear bias with their 4-pot rear kit, reducing front temps and increasing rear temps accordingly by ~100F... Any of you heavy-track guys try this?
IMO, they probably aren't worth the upgrade unless you're running pretty stiff springs up front or have a larger rear spoiler adding downforce.
I have their Penske coilovers with the softer spring rate option (16/14). At Summit Point turn 1, late braking hard from nearly 140 down to 50, I get quite a bit of nose dive & the back end gets a little squirrely. I don't think additional rear bias would do me any good in that situation.. Plus, I already get twice as much life out of my rear pads (HC+800) than my fronts, so I don't think I'd see much benefit with more clamping force (without other changes, as mentioned).
That's my 2-cents, FWIW. However, since I'm a relative n00b at the track (only been doing it three years), it could be that I don't know what the hell I'm talking about & I just need to tune my suspension better
Thx for the notes, Mike. I've noticed too my F gets squirrely hauling her down from 140 to 40 on the back straight of CoTA - which was then far worse on the bumpy Harris Hill straight - and that's braking well later than most others there despite being on stock rotors/pads/suspension (maybe why I completely wore through a newish set in two track days)... so not sure that's a matter of bias as opposed to minor lockup and/or ABS engagement.
That said, I've been thinking about coilovers and am enamored with the "digressive valving" Penske touts over the less-expensive options. I'd distinctly carried a nugget of praise on the digressive approach from a pro driving friend I trust (currently holds the CoTA road car lap record in another buddy's P1). I'd love to hear your first-hand detailed thoughts on them - DD comfort, track improvement, roll bar setup, comparison to other coilovers you'd considered, etc - if you don't mind PM'ing me.
Your point on pad life seems counter-intuitive unless I'm misunderstanding you... Wouldn't added rear bias help even out pad wear? I'll have the HC+800's installed all around as well, as soon as the Autozone Brembo's arrive Friday.
I've also debated adding a removable (track days only) rear wing given how affordable the Flea-bay versions have become, with decent reviews. She is a RWD road car with minimal track aero and significant front weight bias, after all... I've dropped about 150lbs, focusing on lightening the front of the car where possible, but it's still nowhere near 50/50.
For those of you noticing the rear end getting unstable under heavy braking, this relates to the rear toe sweep. One reason why we correct the rear geometry with Changes in link length (not position) which creates a less drastic sum of the arcs and less change over travel. This is also why we run a softer rear rate to gain traction but also allow more damping diversity between front and rear. That being said, it does go back the thermodynamics of the baking system and the choices made there have an impact on the suspension as well.
Back to the rotor discussion.
Consider that the rotor is doing 3 things.
-Providing a frictional interface for the pad accepting heat in exchange.(Stipulated by the microstructures interacting between the rotor alloy and the pad density and material)
-Storage and accumulation of that heat.(thermal mass)
-Radiation and conduction of that heat to the air.(recovery period)
Our 2-Piece rotors provide significant improvements in all 3 areas by:
-Enhancing the friction temper with a much harder iron alloy, (3500 race formula alloyed grey iron) which provides a better surface to modulate braking and resist wear.
-A better balance between ultimate thermal mass and thermal recovery. This means you can get more continuous braking events because the rotor is recovery faster, dumping the heat via better air circulation. This also means that we have been able to use brake pads that are 600 degrees colder and still get great track performance and better pedal modulation. We used to run 1800 degree ultimate pads and while they could take the temperature and continue performing, they were harder on the stock rotors and offered very little forgiveness on initiate braking. In short, they were too grippy. We shifted to suggesting the same compound front and rear with both 2P rotors and with our 360/340mm BBK and see much better performance as it does not overpower the front suspension as much either. The power distribution is more favorable to both front and rear rotors and wear becomes even front and rear. Having larger brakes is less about stopping power and more about the thermal battery conditions and modulation mentioned earlier. The rear pad size is increased marginally, but overall it's the size of the rotor that allows more heat storage that is the real benefit. The Same compound is used in both.
-The 2-piece design is dynamically balanced and provide even heat growth during the operation cycle. This maintains brake feel throughout the temperature range. True center mounting means balanced expansion on the inner and outer rotor faces, this also makes the replacement rotor rings less expensive as we only need to cast 1 ring that works on both R and L rotors.
Added benefits are:
-Weight, weight, weight. The biggest reason to replace with 2pc rotors is the weight savings. Rotating unsprung weight reduction will improve steering response, increase acceleration in addition to the braking improvement.
-Last much longer than OE spec rotors. That means you will easily outpace the cost of even cheap rotors if you are replacing 4 sets. If street driving, you will likely never need to replace the rings. With lapping, we have lasted an entire season of USTC endurance racing on the same set of rotors, with wear being in the 1-2mm range on a 32mm thick ring. In fact I have only had 3 customers in hundreds sold that replaced rings after heavy seasons of lapping. One being the aforementioned customer in the UAE.
-Our rotor surface is thicker. Measure the outside face thickness on your OE replacement rotors, While OE replacements are the same dimensionally, usually they plate thickness is thin, making the vent area larger. Ours maintain a very thick face, this gives additional thermal mass benefits.
-Cheaper does not mean they are the same experience for less. As most have seen the factory and OE replacement rotors wear heavily on the street or in track conditions making both the pads and the rotors wear items. When bed properly, our 2pc rotors shift wear predominantly to the pads. Just one more reason it’s not fair to say that the cost of OE replacements is so cheap that it’s hard to justify. It’s not a like comparison.
We have offered our rotors and worked with RB since 2005 and have a lot of experience with these rotors on the street and the track. They perform well in both applications when paired with the proper pads and suspension setup as well. I hope this was not too wordy an explanation, but there are a lot of variables at play when it comes to braking and the details are the difference. Just like all tires are round and made of rubber, a brake rotor’s performance is set apart by its metallurgy and composition of its components. I did not touch on all the features, but hopefully this sheds some light on some of the experiences you have been having on the street and track.
Also to note, we have them rotors and BBK on black friday special.
Mike
__________________ Redefining Lexus Aftermarket Parts Since 2001 -- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
RB BBK's and 2P Rotors, G-Loc pads, Radium Fuel Systems
Custom Fabrication Design and Machining - Industrial 3D Printing - Laser Cutting 2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
Great info Mike! Wow... $1830 for all four rotors including all discounts (no pads or fluid or SS lines)! Incredible price and so very tempting! If I don't watch my ethanol intake before he UT/TTU game today, there will be some 2-piece rotors in my very near future.
Your point on pad life seems counter-intuitive unless I'm misunderstanding you... Wouldn't added rear bias help even out pad wear? I'll have the HC+800's installed all around as well, as soon as the Autozone Brembo's arrive Friday.
Yeah, it does indeed sound counter-intuitive, but my thought process is this: The physics of stopping the car really boil down to the tires' contact/grip with the pavement. Since my rear pads are lasting so long, that tells me the rear tires are not getting maximum grip under heavy braking. If they were, the pads would be working much harder. Therefore, bigger calipers/pads (with no other changes), would likely just result in the rear pads getting even less of a workout.. I think other changes, such as more downforce or wider/stickier tires would be needed to get that extra clamping force down to the pavement.. If I'm not mistaken, Rafi once mentioned that after he added the big spoiler, he then realized a rear brake upgrade was needed since all that extra downforce resulted in too much abuse for the OEM brakes.
Originally Posted by Leander311
I've also debated adding a removable (track days only) rear wing given how affordable the Flea-bay versions have become, with decent reviews. She is a RWD road car with minimal track aero and significant front weight bias, after all... I've dropped about 150lbs, focusing on lightening the front of the car where possible, but it's still nowhere near 50/50.
I'd love to have an easily removable or adjustable spoiler for the track. Something that doesn't stand out too much from OEM, but can be expanded/adjusted for track days would be great. I envision something similar to this Corvette (below)
Having used Endless CC-RGs in different track cars in the past and based off people's feedback here, I picked up a set of MX72 PLUS pads which are apparently the updated version of the MX72.
I'll try and remember to post feedback once it gets warmer here in the Pacific Northwest and I install them on my car
Having used Endless CC-RGs in different track cars in the past and based off people's feedback here, I picked up a set of MX72 PLUS pads which are apparently the updated version of the MX72.
I'll try and remember to post feedback once it gets warmer here in the Pacific Northwest and I install them on my car
hopefully yours won't squeal as bad as mine do....
such an awesome performing pad, but they squeal like a stuck pig. Ive taken them apart, cleaned, and regreased them three times now, but they still make noise..
GTR is considered to be the toughest car on brakes due to its speed and weight, so literally all the top pad brands are there. If you are looking for the basic brake improvement you should learn this fresh review by a GTR spirited street driver (very few GTR owners are not driving in motorsports mode) on RB's XT910.
Okay, so I got these pads installed a few days ago. I put up a little review in Formidable CCM thread. Long story short. I'm really liking the pads. I've got a couple hundred miles on them and feel like I've gotten them properly bedded in although they felt great right away.Installation was a breeze, no issues. Braking feels good to me. Even when cold in the morning. I've done some hard decelerations from a max of 90 down to a min of 20 or so and they feel really good. They definitely bite harder when they warm up.Also, they are completely silent. I've gotten so used the noise from the OEM brakes when coming to a stop. So far I haven't heard a sound from these pads.My setup is Racingbrake PD1382-391 front pads paired with the OEM rear CCM rotors from the Camaro Z-28 adapted to the GTR.
Contact Mike@Fig for all your ISF brake needs, we have them all; from brake pads, brake line, two piece light weight rotors, to the complete brake system (Iron or CCM).
11-21-17, 11:41 AM
They are Adams Rotors - I WILL NEVER BUY FROM THEM AGAIN! With that being said the rotors are doing very well for me. Over the years the hat painting issue has turned into a non problem. Their packaging is truly sub par. The rotors are shipped in boxes that are too small and not meant for heavy stuff. They arrived in terrible condition. 
