Complete IS-F Brake Thread (Under-construction)
05-06-21, 10:29 AM
#571
Moderator
Are the Carbotech 1521 still the pad of choice for low dust? My OEM pads are finally wearing down some, and I’m tired of cleaning wheels. Will these survive with a couple track days a year, or is it better to run something else?
https://speedfreaksusa.com/i-2390388...e-special.html
https://speedfreaksusa.com/i-2390388...e-special.html
05-06-21, 11:39 AM
#572
Are the Carbotech 1521 still the pad of choice for low dust? My OEM pads are finally wearing down some, and I’m tired of cleaning wheels. Will these survive with a couple track days a year, or is it better to run something else?
https://speedfreaksusa.com/i-2390388...e-special.html
https://speedfreaksusa.com/i-2390388...e-special.html
-Matt M.
05-06-21, 05:02 PM
#573
Moderator
05-06-21, 07:19 PM
#574
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Any track friendly pads that don’t soak the wheels in dust like OEM, or is that just par for the course? If not, any issues with having a track set and swapping them out for street use? I’ve honestly never bedded pads and never needed to. I just throw them in and drive like the rest of America. Any adverse effects with swapping back and forth?
05-07-21, 06:40 AM
#575
Moderator
05-14-21, 05:40 AM
#576
Moderator
My pad wear indicators really started crying yesterday, so I ordered the 1521s. I noticed my rotors have a lip on them, and then realized I’ve never actually replaced rotors from wear. I have only ever replaced rotors from warping. How do you measure them, and what measurement am I looking for? They turn smooth with close to 40k miles on the car.
05-14-21, 07:29 AM
#577
Use a micrometer (preferred) or calipers
Front brake disc thickness
Standard 30.0 mm (1.18 in.)
Minimum 28.0 mm (1.10 in.)
Front brake disc runout
Maximum 0.06 mm (0.00236 in.)
Rear brake disc thickness
Standard 28.0 mm (1.10 in.)
Minimum 26.0 mm (1.02 in.)
Rear brake disc runout
Maximum 0.06 mm (0.00236 in.)
Front brake disc thickness
Standard 30.0 mm (1.18 in.)
Minimum 28.0 mm (1.10 in.)
Front brake disc runout
Maximum 0.06 mm (0.00236 in.)
Rear brake disc thickness
Standard 28.0 mm (1.10 in.)
Minimum 26.0 mm (1.02 in.)
Rear brake disc runout
Maximum 0.06 mm (0.00236 in.)
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Jwconeil (05-14-21)
05-14-21, 02:58 PM
#578
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
Rotors don't warp. They get uneven pad deposits, and form cementite hard spots, but they don't warp.
Easy check for replacing the disc is to look at the lip. You only get 1mm per side. If the lip is deeper than 1mm, the disc is toast.
This is much easier on the RC F and GS F. Just look for the slots. If they're gone and only the holes remain, the disc is done. Same is true for the RB rotors from Figs.
Easy check for replacing the disc is to look at the lip. You only get 1mm per side. If the lip is deeper than 1mm, the disc is toast.
This is much easier on the RC F and GS F. Just look for the slots. If they're gone and only the holes remain, the disc is done. Same is true for the RB rotors from Figs.
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Rickna (05-14-21)
05-14-21, 05:18 PM
#579
Moderator
I’m headed to harbor freight tomorrow to grab something that could even measure a MM.
05-14-21, 05:56 PM
#580
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
https://smile.amazon.com/VINCA-DRGA-...dp/B0757HR4C4/
or this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Fowler-Nsk-...dp/B00063UH86/
I'm a tool hoar, so I'd buy something from Mitutoyo first, but either of these will do.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 05-14-21 at 06:08 PM.
05-15-21, 06:53 AM
#581
In order to not start an online war about metric v. imperial, I will add that it's definitely a good idea to replace pads & rotors at the same time, if possible. I replaced my worn (original) rotors with ~66k km on the clock recently, but kept the same pads since my NS400 are still at >50% life. Boy, was it a pain to get the pads to lay flat again. It took some sanding, three bed-in procedures and few thousand km of driving to get things stopping optimally again. Original rotors developed "waves" to them that transferred onto the pads.
If I had to do it all over again, I would get the Brembos, or even upgrade to 2pc rotors rather than Raybestos. My F doesn't see track use, or anything to really justify or warrant an expenditure like 2pc rotors, but seeing that slim ring of surface rust on the hub/face is annoying. And that's with zero use in the rain or in winter. You get what you pay for.
05-15-21, 09:26 AM
#582
Moderator
I try to keep my comments constructive/helpful but this is hilarious, lol. Are precise measurements not a thing in the US?
In order to not start an online war about metric v. imperial, I will add that it's definitely a good idea to replace pads & rotors at the same time, if possible. I replaced my worn (original) rotors with ~66k km on the clock recently, but kept the same pads since my NS400 are still at >50% life. Boy, was it a pain to get the pads to lay flat again. It took some sanding, three bed-in procedures and few thousand km of driving to get things stopping optimally again. Original rotors developed "waves" to them that transferred onto the pads.
If I had to do it all over again, I would get the Brembos, or even upgrade to 2pc rotors rather than Raybestos. My F doesn't see track use, or anything to really justify or warrant an expenditure like 2pc rotors, but seeing that slim ring of surface rust on the hub/face is annoying. And that's with zero use in the rain or in winter. You get what you pay for.
In order to not start an online war about metric v. imperial, I will add that it's definitely a good idea to replace pads & rotors at the same time, if possible. I replaced my worn (original) rotors with ~66k km on the clock recently, but kept the same pads since my NS400 are still at >50% life. Boy, was it a pain to get the pads to lay flat again. It took some sanding, three bed-in procedures and few thousand km of driving to get things stopping optimally again. Original rotors developed "waves" to them that transferred onto the pads.
If I had to do it all over again, I would get the Brembos, or even upgrade to 2pc rotors rather than Raybestos. My F doesn't see track use, or anything to really justify or warrant an expenditure like 2pc rotors, but seeing that slim ring of surface rust on the hub/face is annoying. And that's with zero use in the rain or in winter. You get what you pay for.
05-15-21, 10:08 AM
#583
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Jwconeil (05-15-21)
05-15-21, 11:12 AM
#584
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
I try to keep my comments constructive/helpful but this is hilarious, lol. Are precise measurements not a thing in the US?
In order to not start an online war about metric v. imperial, I will add that it's definitely a good idea to replace pads & rotors at the same time, if possible. I replaced my worn (original) rotors with ~66k km on the clock recently, but kept the same pads since my NS400 are still at >50% life. Boy, was it a pain to get the pads to lay flat again. It took some sanding, three bed-in procedures and few thousand km of driving to get things stopping optimally again. Original rotors developed "waves" to them that transferred onto the pads.
If I had to do it all over again, I would get the Brembos, or even upgrade to 2pc rotors rather than Raybestos. My F doesn't see track use, or anything to really justify or warrant an expenditure like 2pc rotors, but seeing that slim ring of surface rust on the hub/face is annoying. And that's with zero use in the rain or in winter. You get what you pay for.
In order to not start an online war about metric v. imperial, I will add that it's definitely a good idea to replace pads & rotors at the same time, if possible. I replaced my worn (original) rotors with ~66k km on the clock recently, but kept the same pads since my NS400 are still at >50% life. Boy, was it a pain to get the pads to lay flat again. It took some sanding, three bed-in procedures and few thousand km of driving to get things stopping optimally again. Original rotors developed "waves" to them that transferred onto the pads.
If I had to do it all over again, I would get the Brembos, or even upgrade to 2pc rotors rather than Raybestos. My F doesn't see track use, or anything to really justify or warrant an expenditure like 2pc rotors, but seeing that slim ring of surface rust on the hub/face is annoying. And that's with zero use in the rain or in winter. You get what you pay for.
05-15-21, 12:34 PM
#585
Moderator
I’ve noticed some rotors come thoroughly covered in oils. I had problems bedding pads on another car (the first time I tried to bed pads ever), and it didn’t work well. Long story short, I should have degreased the rotors. It probably would have helped. I suspect my problem was also related to some faulty autozone pads, but I won’t get on that soap box.