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there are rear bushings as well? Or is that what the LCA are for for? Sorry to sound like a newbie. Also the last spec sheet you posted is that for also daily driving or track only? Do you not recommend 0 toe after installing figs LCA ?
I'd run 0.04 degrees toe out in the front with any of the aftermarket front LCA replacements. With the 90 durometer polyurethane I had even wear across the tread, and good turn in. I am now running solid bushings at the rear of the front LCA and the same 0.04 degrees toe out each side. Works perfectly and does not have inner edge wear issues at all.
I'd run 0.04 degrees toe out in the front with any of the aftermarket front LCA replacements. With the 90 durometer polyurethane I had even wear across the tread, and good turn in. I am now running solid bushings at the rear of the front LCA and the same 0.04 degrees toe out each side. Works perfectly and does not have inner edge wear issues at all.
After an alignment do you still need to disconnecting the battery and doing a zero point calibrator for the yaw sensor? If so how is that done other than disconnecting the battery for 2 seconds.
Aligned front toe to zero. I do not know what it was before sub-frame was dropped for header/etc replacement, but more steering effort is required to turn off-center at highway speeds now. A welcome benefit.
Cracks me up that this car has 8+° of caster, no wonder it feels so stable.
Your front subframe needs a shove to the right to balance out your camber.
Yeah, I was thinking about that.
Is it worthwhile for <0.3° mis-match? I noticed your alignment report from 01/20/20 has a 0.6° mis-match. It does kind offend me that the left is more negative without driver mass, since it will diverge to more negative with driver in the car.
Trying to figure out how rigorous to be for my use case = DD and weekend car w/ occasional track events for fun. I guess there are a couple ways to look at this:
A) This is the last chance to square things up before installing coilover kit. Is a settled, worn suspension with 9yrs and 115k+ miles of wear still a good reference point? I tend to think the factory springs would settle equally side-to-side, but who knows. After the coilover kit is installed, there are too many variables to reconcile and all I can do is camber-match in the desired ride-height range.
B) Just install the coilover kit and go for best camber-match.
Can I reasonably expect option A) to give more balanced corner weights?
To my thinking, camber-match is most important up front. The rear camber mis-match is also 0.3°, and from under the car I see no evidence that the rear subframe bolts in front of the mufflers have ever been touched. Automotive press stated MY's 2011+ had more rear negative camber (0.75° to 1.5°), so I think that explains that difference from your MY 2008.
Appreciate your feedback, interested in your perspective.
Last edited by ChpEng; 09-15-20 at 10:38 PM.
Reason: clarity
My alignment is definitely not optimum for L/R camber balance, but I know I'll be back under the car with the subframe dropped again soon, so I didn't stress about it this time. I plan to center the subframe on the car and let the camber fall where it falls. If the subframe is on center, then lots of things should be reasonably happy. The other thing to check is wheelbase on both sides. Because the subframes are bolted to the chassis and there's slop in this, you would be wise to square up the car before installing suspension and setting corner weights. It was the first step in chassis tuning the mini-sprints I worked on. If the axles aren't square and properly centered L/R (well, not exactly on sprint cars, but that's another post entirely) then you're starting from an unknown point and any change will not be repeatable. All of this depends on how much of this you want to do yourself and how much you want to pay someone. Getting it "race spec" won't be cheap if you're paying. For weekend warrior with mostly commute/grocery duties, you can be off quite a bit and still be acceptable. The only time you'll notice issues is when you autocross or road race (HPDE - maybe, maybe not). The details make big differences in lap times if you are competing. If you're not, you'll have to work a little harder if the car isn't square, but it won't be a disaster.
Good stuff everyone. After replacing ball joints and tie rods the alignment is way out of whack. Shop will be doing an "aggressive street setup" since i daily and do maybe 3-4 tracks days a year. Paying by the hour so I hope it doesn't break the bank lol. But looking forward to a more track friendly setup since I'm pretty well modded. Thanks again for all the great discussion!
02-20-20, 10:58 AM
