rhy

iTrader: (2)

^^ It really depends on the dealer. Generally, with used cars in this price range, 2-3k off should be possible. But if a dealer is already asking, say, 5k below average, getting another 3k would probably be a lost cause.

Then there are those asking way too much and telling tearful stories about how their kids will starve if they gave you a discount

I'd contact a bunch of dealers and let them fight it out price-wise.

mentroc

This all depends on the saleman or dealership you are dealing with. If they are more desperate to sell then you can get a great price, but either way dealership prices are set to be negotiable. There is always wiggle room dispite what the salesman tell you.

UCrazyKid

^^ don't deal with a floor sales person. They are paid on commission and it directly relates to the selling price of the car. Deal with the fleet or internet sales director as they are salaried and don't give up commission on a discounted car. Search the dealers website to ID who that person is, or call the dealer and ask to speak to them. Don't just walk on to the lot and speak to whoever approaches you first.

VtotheJ

iTrader: (2)

For those of you who travelled far to buy a used F, I assume you drove it off the lot the first time you checked out the car? I'm thinking this is risky, because what if the dealer jacks up the price upon my arrival, knowing I travelled far to see it?

rhy

iTrader: (2)

That's why the paperwork needs to be done in advance so there's no way for "misunderstandings" to happen. Or at least a price should have been agreed on.

PurduePete

No, the dealers won't play those petty games with you, if they're also a new car dealer. I would stay away from used car only dealers. Remember, they're trying to get you there to buy the car, not pull petty games like what you proposed as they have a reputation to uphold. Actaully, you can use it to your advantage and ask them to lower the car as motivation for you to see the car.

AND NO, DO NOT SIGN ANYTHING UNTIL YOU SEE THE CAR. The worst thing that can happen is that they sold the car before you got there. I would not sign anything until I have driven the car.

There is risk to anything, it's all about minimzing the risk right? If the car is reasonable price, is what you want, the carfax is good, the miles is good, the internet sales manager you spoke to sounds legit, and it's a new car dealership, then what else is there to verify? Sure you can verify as much as you want, but there will always be some risk, right?

VtotheJ

iTrader: (2)

So I found a MM ISF, 43k, 23k miles. The warranty is transferable, and there are 16 months/26k miles left on the Basic Lexus Warranty....what does this cover?

Some other things... it has Voice activation, bluetooth, Mark Levinson sound, rear camera, headlight washers, and how can you tell if it has intuitive parking assist?

The brakes/tires have NOT been changed yet, so they offered about $1500 off the online price, bringing it down to about $41,500.

The car does not come with a window sticker but comes with manuals.

What do you all think about this deal?

rhy

iTrader: (2)

^^ Try to get it for under $40k, especially when the car will need brakes/tires. Make sure to check the history (carfax/autocheck, Lexus service history through owners.lexus.com). Look for the parking sensors on the bumpers to figure out if the car has IPA. They're pretty big, can't miss them.

Here they are:

VtotheJ

iTrader: (2)

Thanks rhy!

Looks like the car does have IPA. They're willing to only budge $1500, I'm gonna try to haggle down to $40k; they weren't willing to go any lower. The carfax looks clean, so I can't really use that when haggling.

This seems like a good deal to me considering the low mileage and the options that come w/ the car. OK so I spoke to them and it seems the front tires have 8/32 and rears have 7/32 tread.

But I am prepared to shell out a few G's for brakes, and possibly rotors in the near future if everything works out.

EDIT: Got a phone call earlier, and the salesman claims that the car will be "shipped to one of its affiliates within 24 hours", so they need a 'refundable' deposit of $1k. Sounds fishy to me, so I immediately turned them down... there's no way I'm giving anyone money without even seeing the car. Just sharing my experience so others don't get scammed!

ISFSteve

I would not be so quick to say It is a scam. Some Dealerships do this to increase the convenience but like it was already said, go there in person rather than give a deposit on a car unseen. I don't understand the comment about a couple thousand for brakes. That should not be the case and it should just need a good set of low dust pads like the Hawk pads for a couple hundred dollars. It seems with that mileage, a little over $40k is an average price. Clean Carfax may make it worth a second look but in person and no deposit ahead of time.

bnizzle87

I wouldn't automatically say no to the $1k refundable deposit. This is to ensure that you as the potential buyer is actually interested in purchasing the vehicle. Since it is being transported, it would be a waste for the dealer to bring it from a different lot for just one customer. New OEM brake pads and rotors will definitely run over $1k, even more with labor if you choose to have it done at the dealer. But I would've given the OK with the deposit. If, after I saw the car in person, I didn't like it, then that's why it is a refundable deposit. Best of luck, and I hope you find the F you're searching for!

ISFSteve

For those that think they need new rotors after 20,000 miles or so........ What the heck are you guys doing to them? I think the majority of people are not replacing rotors like that.

UCrazyKid

I think it has less to do with what people are doing to their rotors and has more to do with dealers screwing people over by telling them things like you "must replace rotors with pads" or "cross drilled rotors cannot be resurfaced" and then believing them.

I had that ***** pulled on me. "Sir, you need new front brakes and rotors"
"Really? what do the rotors measure out out in the front?"
"I don't know, we didn't measure, you just need to do them at the same time"
"Yea, right, go measure them..."
"29.2mm"
"Oh really? Isn't new 30mm and min. 28?"
"I'm not sure"
"Well isn't it stamped on the side of the rotor"
"Oh I guess it is"
"So wouldn't 29.2mm mean they weren't even 1/2 used up?
"I guess so"
"Don't touch my rotors please."

or sometimes it goes like this.
"Well the rotors can't be turned/resurfaced because they are cross drilled"
"Oh, really? Didn't they just turn my rears here last month when they did the pad replacement under the TSIB?"
"Ah yes, I guess they can be turned."

They next question to ask them is why they have a 100% mark up on their rotors and pads compared to Sewell Lexus Parts Online and see if they can match it.

Good luck. Lexus is not used to dealing with cars with high performance braking systems and only know what they might have been told by the head office that wants to sell over priced parts.

/rant

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

http://autos.yahoo.com/used-cars/lex...any&picstart=8


check out Yahoo autos.. pleanty of IS-F's under 40k.. GL..

leedoobert

good luck OP!! please don't settle for something that you don't like 100%

Im currently in the market for one as well and I have already decided that I have to have SFP =)

Maybe USB as well if it does pop up...

For most of the '08s that are becoming readily available now, I think anything $40K and under is a good deal