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If its never been done, and your at 130k doing this...get all the gaskets... hes replacing my filters and sent me this. Having a master tech for a friend is, I cant explain it...
That's the oil filter for the exhaust cam VVT oil control valve solenoid. The screens can be cleaned and reused, but replaced if you like. The parts list here includes new filters and the rubber seal (custom o-ring). These parts live in the valve cover and when I replaced the rubber seal here, my start up rattle disappeared for about 5k miles.
That's the oil filter for the exhaust cam VVT oil control valve solenoid. The screens can be cleaned and reused, but replaced if you like. The parts list here includes new filters and the rubber seal (custom o-ring). These parts live in the valve cover and when I replaced the rubber seal here, my start up rattle disappeared for about 5k miles.
got em per your list already. he just sent me a text with the word "you" and the image lol.
im having the screens replaced since i had em anyway. ill have more pictures hopefully later today. but from what he already told me, none of the valves were tight. all loosey goosey happy valves well within spec. ill have numbers soon. not trying to bother em.
been switching off between ENEOS and Idimetsu, but ive only done 2 services.
since i didnt know the condition of the engine, ive been doing 3k intervals. i know, excessive, but ive only driven the car about 7k since i got it in dec2018.
been switching off between ENEOS and Idimetsu, but ive only done 2 services.
since i didnt know the condition of the engine, ive been doing 3k intervals. i know, excessive, but ive only driven the car about 7k since i got it in dec2018.
so now considering pushing it up to 5k.
Don't waste that good oil...
I've been running Mobil 5w30 conventional oil with OEM IS F filter for over 11 years every 5k miles..
I'm now at 180k miles and back in March I switched up to Idemitsu 5w30 synthetic.
But of course barely driving now, so whenever the Idemitsu oil reaches 5k miles, I will
be going back to having it tested with blackstone, but there's a huge gap in years and miles since my last.
I wanted to do the valve lash inspection during the ELF recall many years back at the Lexus dealership; but it didn't pan out and the price wasn't exactly cheap.. (Even had all the gaskets lined up)
It's very true a lose or tapping valve is a happy valve.
We mostly know the book rates for Lexus, mind sharing what your independent shop / Lexus master tech charged for the labor?
We mostly know the book rates for Lexus, mind sharing what your independent shop / Lexus master tech charged for the labor?
Joe Z
not at all. 900 OTD. Given I provided the Gaskets/seals. And he also replace the screens and spark plugs.
I dont think I saved money, but that wasnt my goal. My goal was to have someone impartial of the brand, and i trusted to do the job properly and would give me any bad news if there was any. I also have the original spark plugs if you guys want me to post em.
not at all. 900 OTD. Given I provided the Gaskets/seals. And he also replace the screens and spark plugs.
I dont think I saved money, but that wasnt my goal. My goal was to have someone impartial of the brand, and i trusted to do the job properly and would give me any bad news if there was any. I also have the original spark plugs if you guys want me to post em.
It feels peppier than before that's for sure.
Not a bad price at all.
Yes of course.. Always a fresh feeling with the new plugs...
At minimum did the two rear spark plugs at the firewall show signs of oil on the threads??
If yes, it because overtime the spark plug tube gaskets dry out, and during hard pulls the oil pools at the back of the motor letting oil (tiny amount) seep in at the sandwich points..
If I can do just two things on my car right now, it would be the spark plug tube gaskets & the Drivers side chain tensioner
GREAT thread. My car is at 77k. I will skip the clearance check. Everything seems fine on the butt dyno and ear sensors. I do rev it up often but have never tracked it. Oil has always been Mobil 1 and OEM filter changed every 6,000 miles (I don't worry about age of the oil, it's never more than 12 months old).
Great write up!
Any recollection about how to get the driver's side fuse panel apart?
All of the connectors are unplugged, and it looks like this entire section lifts up so I can access yet more connectors underneath, as well as the 10mm nuts closest to the firewall. Only problem is, I can't figure out how this section lifts out. Any tips?
There is a catch near the back. It's in the photos below. You need a very small screwdriver to get the catch to release and the whole thing slides up and out.
Inserting the screwdriver to release the catch:
Assembly lifted slightly to show the normal state of the catch.
About halfway through this currently, figured I'd stream-of-consciousness a few notes that might help others down the road:
Took about 5.5 hours to get everything disconnected, valve covers off, new sparkplugs in, as well as replacing the crank angle sensor.
At 113k, every one of my gaskets was rock hard. Spark plug hole on cylinder 8 had an alarming amount of oil in it, the plug itself was dripping oil when I removed it. Threads were dry so nothing was entering the cylinder, but I was shocked to see it was this bad with relatively low miles.
I used a split-fork interior panel pry tool to get the harness clips off without breaking. It's cheap and made things pretty painless.
The DIY has the pulse damper nut as a 21mm, on mine it was 22mm. The "don't let this nut move or you're buying a new fuel pump" nut was 21mm.
As far as I can tell, this plastic tube serves no purpose whatsoever. I thought it might contain wiring running into the fuse box, but it's empty and there isn't even a passthrough where it connects....strange. For reference the radiator is just to the left in that photo. Curious if anyone knows what it does, beside make it a PITA to remove the fusebox.
If you order the full array of gaskets and washers, this one is factory labeled "washer, seal." It goes underneath the valve cover "long bolts", 3 per bank
@lobuxracer Definitely looks like someone had been in here before me, there's writing on the bank 1 cam. Any idea what it means?
The oil screen filters are in both valve covers...are they under this guy? I removed both bolts but nothing seemed to budge easily, just wanted to confirm before I used excessive force.
06-24-20, 02:07 PM
