lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

That is incredibly unfortunate, but not unheard of by any means.

I have the same tool and one other one with more rounded edges. Either will work, but IME, the tool itself isn't the thing that prevents damaging the clips. I bought a big bag of clips (about 100 or so) from Amazon with this same tool as part of the "kit" and these seem to be much more durable than the OEM units. No matter how careful I am, there are always one or two that decide to lose one of the four petals and I just replace them now. I do the same thing for the screws holding the engine under cover in place. The plastic piece that slides into the square hole will get weak after a few times and the screw won't tighten (I check them before removing them), so again, I have replacements on hand and replace the bad ones when I remove the cover so they all hold when I put the cover back on. I do the same thing with the clips the Supra uses to hold on the engine under cover.
You are correct. I just checked the tool I use for this and it is indeed 22mm, not 21mm. Post details have been corrected.
See post above. This is an air duct for cooling the ECM with fresh air not hot engine compartment air.
The 2JZ uses this same type of washer on the valve covers, but they get glassy hard and where they are installed on the four studs, they're difficult to remove.
That was put there at the factory. I seriously doubt anyone was in this before you were and marked the cams without removing them which is extremely unlikely.
Yes, you need to remove the bolts and pull the cover apart.

calteg

Thanks again for the DIY, it was tremendously helpful!
I'll echo what lobux said about pulling the undertray. Initially I just pulled the main one under the motor. Do yourself a favor and pull the secondary one that runs underneath the trans as well. Both times I dropped an item, they ended up on top of the secondary cover.

calteg

Follow up to the follow up. I didn't miss a section about using gasket maker on bank 2 did I?
Just got everything button up, car fired right up, no dash lights. Then, a decent amount of smoke from under hood.
Pretty major leak from bank 2, right up against the firewall. That section fought me tooth and nail when I got the pass side valve cover unbolted the first time, made me think there was some sort of gasket maker for one of corners perhaps?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

No. I haven't used glue on any of my inspections. The FSM does mention it, but it's at the front, not the back. Right where the timing cover meets up with the head. Typical Toyota engineering, same as the 2JZ.

Speedin

I have read this entire post which is full of great information and I thank everyone for that. I can not find the torque specs for the hp fuel pumps or the valve covers. Does anyone have that information available?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

HPFP - 25 Nm, 18 ft-lb

Speedin

Thank you for the info

Mesh704

Hello guys need your help with RCF/GSF engine

Factory recommendations
Intake 0.12 to 0.18 mm
Exhaust 0.19 to 0.25 mm

I was doing valve clearance on bank 2 as I'm having lack of power + vibration + misfire cylinder 8

And this is what happen when I'm doing valve clearance

On cylinder 8 intake valve
Lobe #1 I can't slide the feeler even size 0.04mm

Does this mean I need to change shim or the issue is further ?

Pictures attached

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The valve(s) are burned and need to be replaced. Tight valve clearances are always bad news.

Mesh704

So even if reducing shim size will not work ?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

You could put a thinner shim in there, but it may or may not work. Changing the shims is no small task. The cams have to come out for that. My bet is the valve (valves) is (are) burned and that's why the lash is too tight. I'd try a leak down test to see how bad it is first.

ISFsleeper

@lobuxracer First off I want to say thank you. It's one thing to have the knowledge to do the work it's another to take the time to document it and articulate it so others can follow suit. It shows that you do things with excellence and love sharing it with others. Much appreciated!
Quick question which Amazon wire harness cable ties did you go with instead of 82711-2D380 since they are unavailable in the US.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

You can order the OEM part from Megazip or Amayama in Japan. Megazip is showing $1.60 each today, but shipping will be very painful.

I ordered a completely different part but the link to it no longer works. The part works OK, and I bought 100 of them years ago, so there's plenty of left overs even after doing the valley plate and replacing all the DI injector harness clamps. I am not kidding at all when I say I just cut them off now. It's not worth the time to mess with them.

For more alternatives, check this post: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post10057953

LesBinnit

@lobuxracer Thanks for this write up!

I requested estimates from two Lexus dealerships. One quoted me $4700 labor only. (30 hrs) The other quoted $1400, but said there’s no need to do it because the ISF has hydraulic lifters. So, I decided to take it on myself.

I worked on bank 2 today. It was tough to get the valve cover gasket to stay in place at the rear. I think I got it but we’ll see. The fuel hose did not want to come off the pump, and I ended up puncturing the hose trying to remove it. If your fuel hose is stuck, I’d recommend removing the hose from the tube, remove the pump, then remove the hose from the pump once it’s off.

Toyota recommends to rotate the cam so it doesn’t compress the fuel pump plunger. I didn’t do this, and just compressed the plunger to install the pump. Can anyone confirm this is acceptable?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I've never worried about the cam position when installing the HPFP.