IS350atWOT

iTrader: (1)

I never have tracked my F nor do I plan to. So can I go longer between brake fluid change intervals? Since I don't track it, is there even a need to change it before 100K miles?

UCrazyKid

There is a book in the glove box, I think it says "Owners Manual" on the cover or something ridiculous like that on it. Open it up and a genie will appear. It will offer you 3 wishes but you might not know that because the genie will be speaking Japanese. But it is our luck that the genie understands English. Ask the Genie while holding your left index finger to the tip or your nose this question and it shall give you the answer. OR just have it changed every 3 years. Brake fluid is Hygroscopic (attracts/take up water) and while the braking system is supposed to be closed air/water tight, it can still get moisture in it and that moisture can cause corrosion of the brake system. Every 3 years is the guideline (its a time thing, not mileage), I'm sure others will say more and others less.

Andy

IS350HKS

iTrader: (4)

good input thank!

ERDoc74

That was F'ing hilarious!!!!

caymandive

iTrader: (2)

Yup the owners manual says every 3 years or 30k miles and I would recommend sticking by that guideline. I just changed my brake fluid at 34k and resulted in a noticeably firmer pedal feel.

As UCrazyKid said, Brake fluid attracts moisture, and this moisture can cause problems within the brake system over time to include the ABS system which would be $$$. In addition to that, brake fluid can also break down over time from excess heat that is created from within the brake system.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The question to the answer is, when do you want to spend money fixing your brakes? After years of neglect when you spend a lot to replace LOTS of internally corroded parts or a little bit at a time by keeping the fluid fresh?

IS350atWOT

iTrader: (1)

Got it. I remember the mileage in the manual, but I missed that part about the 3 years. I have about 49K miles in 21 months. I'll probably just flush the brake fluid as part of my 60K self-service. That should be close to 3 years. Thanks.

Lexmex

Keep in mind, too, it's not just the brake fluid, but also the brake hardware (and I don't mean just pads), and especially with these high end vehicles. Any pieces (bushings, rubber dust boots, slide pins) should be examined, replaced and/or lubed every time you do something with the brakes. I recently had to replace quite a bit on my RX300 due to old rubber. The last thing you want is a seized piston or slide pin.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

There are no slide pins in the brakes on the F. All four calipers are rigidly mounted. The only thing replaceable is the dust boots on the pistons, and the pistons must NEVER be removed from the caliper per Brembo. There's precious little to do with the brakes besides keeping fresh fluid, inspecting the piston dust boots, and inspecting the rubber lines for damage.

spddemon

So when you do the 60k service are you having them do the valve clearance? I have seen one thread on this subject. Just one member so far will do this on his own in the near future. Can't wait to see what info he will have to share. : )

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Yes, and it won't be too long from now. I've only got about 1k to go, although I may be on the road in Florida for Christmas when it actually comes due. It will have to wait until I return home to ATL after Christmas if this is the case.

IS350atWOT

iTrader: (1)

I don't have the tools or know how for that. So I'll have to call for a price from the dealer. If it's not too much money, I'll have it done for peace of mind. All the other stuff that comes due at 60K, I can do myself.

IS350atWOT

iTrader: (1)

I'm getting ready to place an order with Sewell. So I'm wondering on whether or not to order some brake fluid. The dealer said this service will be around 60$ and all they do is replace the fluid that's in the reservoir. Isn't this useless? I mean, the fluid on top doesn't get mixed in with the rest, right? Doesn't the whole system need to be flushed and replaced (bleeding,etc.)?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

No, not flushed, just suck the old fluid out of the reservoir, refill with fresh, then bleed all four calipers keeping the reservoir full of fresh fluid - actually, you want the reservoir to be where it was when you started. A low indication on the reservoir is also a great indication your pads are worn out.

The worst fluid is in the caliper itself - it's usually pretty burned - at least this is what I see with my car.

darbs242

iTrader: (5)

Running dot 5.1 at the track makes a large difference after 30 minutes straight