Originally Posted by FIGS

There is no reason he should not be able to get the front centered other than shop time (lifetime alignment shops often use a time-based cutoff for "good enough".)
Also keep in mind that the rear of this car is multilink and plays a huge roll in the overall steering of the car. So it will depend on the entire alignment, not just the front toe settings as to how the car pulls one way or another. That is the reason why suggest our essential kit for lowering. It includes the rear LCA for camber adjustment, rear toe link for reduced bumpsteer as well as infinite toe adjustment to really hit the numbers, and the front LCA bushing for stabilized front toe under loading. Often times its not the gross amount of adjustment you have, but what you actually get the numbers to. The "green" should never be accepted as within specs because there are not factory specs for a lowered IS-F.

My suggestions for 1" front lowered F. On the rear a .5" lowering is typical but really any setting rear because these numbers are targets on a curve and typically the camber setting and toe settings are the balance figure for a good bump curve.

Front Toe 0.0 to -0.1 for tread wear and +0.1 to +0.2 for slightly better turn in at the track.
The front of the car will naturally toe in under compression so this toe out setting is a countermeasure.

Rear toe 0.05 to 0.1
Rear camber -2.2 , same with front depending on drop. Caster angle increases to around 8.5-9.5 depending on drop.

You can make the car oversteer or understeer simple by adjusting toe in the rear. And if the cross toe in the rear is not equal and the rear ride height is not equal, you can have more or less bumpsteer in the back causing it to dogtrack.

Bottom line, check your ride height on the rack with shock length if possible. Balance the toe side to side and do it with the driver in the car.