TripleBlkF

I just ordered a pair of Project Mu pads for the front which i everyone seems to be happy with.

I will be installing them on my original rotors that have 17k on them... they have barely a lip on them. Anyone see any issues with this?

caymandive

iTrader: (2)

You should be fine. I didn't replace my rotors until my second pad change at 34k. To be certain you can always measure the thickness. Min spec for front rotors is 28mm.

lx470man

iTrader: (1)

i changed my pads out at 16k, with original rotors. No problems what do ever, don't worry about it you have plenty of rotor left. Just follow the asian rule of thumb, never change anything at the recommended time interval, let it ride till it falls off it will be fine.

avgj0F

iTrader: (2)

Don't forget to bedding in your brakes after.

iffy08

Where did you purchase them?

PRSUIT460

iTrader: (3)

That's very important, and I think most people overlook it.

vintage

iTrader: (6)

I changed mine at 43k with project mu's and now im at 60k with zero problems. No deep scarring ...nothing.....I also bedded the rotors. I went to 60 mph and slow down to 10 mph quickly . I repeated it 10 times. Be sure to add some anti squeal grease to the back of the pads or they will squeal. You will love the pads from every perspective. I have a whole new respect for these rotors. The first 16k was put on my car gently from the previous owner who was an ederly gent that took immaculate care of the F. it never saw inclement weather until I bought it.......my point being that prob had something to do with the life I've achieved from these.But I can tell you I drive mine and the brakes aren't abused but used consistently with me leaning on them a bit. Don't be afraid to do it. I will be changing my rotors soon and intend to use the project pads.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I've always marveled at how often so many people wear out rotors. My original rotors were fine until they cracked from track use, and even with track duty they still had 29.3mm when I took them off. I replaced them with a set someone took off in Arizona and gave to a dealer tech with more than 29mm according to my micrometer. They also cracked on their first track weekend, but they're not beyond limits (30mm continuous) yet. They've been great, and I'm at 60k miles - still not even close to wearing them out.

StrykarISF

Steering wheel doesnt shake when you brake and get them hot? So not warped... Also sometimes they can get a lot of brake dust built up inside the cross drilled holes if they continue on to a 2nd set of brake pads with no resurfacing which could result in noise; but hey save some money and keep them going as long as they are within spec!

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Rotors don't warp. Just ask Stoptech, or Carroll Smith, or...

streetx

iTrader: (4)

what pads are you using for the track lob?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Carbotech XP-12 front and XP-10 rear. Click on the link for the details.

StrykarISF

Rotors do warp, its science not a myth. I'm trying to give the poster some advice here? Rotors can become warped causing a steering wheel vibration or "shimmy" felt in the steering wheel while applying the brakes. Usually a remedy for this is to replace the rotors or cut them with an on car lathe, right? But why do they become warped? Apparently the link above does not agree with the rest of the world so to make it short; warpage is caused by the expansion and contraction of the metal (rotor) example would be a normal drive and then hitting a puddle of water on the side of the road while applying the brakes, excessive temperature change of the metal is harsh. Or something as simple as worn out brake pads, grinding metal to metal thus creating grooves on the rotor's surface.

I'm not trying to argue, but rather validate a point behind the matter. Why does Lexus have tons of TSIB's pertaining to the replacing of "Warped Rotors" Its not due to brake dust transfer as the link suggests. These everyday vehicles that visit the dealers are not race cars as Carroll Smith puts it. The metal is flat out not true from everyday driving. When its spinning on an on car lathe and its only cutting on one side of the rotor and metal shavings are flying off of the bit.....thats not brake dust...The brake dial indicator does not lie. I'm sure you have a lot of years with cars, as do I; but this is just science, not a myth as they suggest.

streetx

iTrader: (4)

warped rotors is a misused term in those tsb. vibrationin the steering wheel while braking is usually caused by glazed rotors

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

You'd be wise to do some more research on this. Sure I have plenty of practical experience too, but I also don't argue with guys like Carroll Smith who've forgotten more than I'll ever know about brakes.Nine times out of ten, the rotor is getting cut unevenly because it's not squarely mounted in the lathe. Truing something up to be cut properly takes a whole lot more effort than what most brake technicians are willing to do, and a lathe is just about the worst way to surface a disc anyway. If you buy new factory discs, they're not turned, they're ground. There's a really solid scientific reason for this. I've done a lot of machine work for a long time and I know machinists who are far better than I am. None of them disagree with what Carroll Smith wrote.