IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

crooked F logo on titanium shift knob

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Old 01-18-12, 06:12 PM
  #16  
bigaudiofa
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Loctite plain and simple. That is actually how the old honda S2000's had their shift ***** put on straight. I know, one hot summer day I was doing a detail job on one, the thing actually did not have enough and became loose.

Blue Loctite, semi permanent and can be taken off with some grip

Red Loctite, Permanent .
Old 01-18-12, 08:08 PM
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96817isf
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locktite had a few different grades it all depends on the one u buy..
Old 01-18-12, 11:21 PM
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Joe Z
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Originally Posted by ERDoc74
Thanks again!!!
Let's see a pic of the corrected ****...

Joe Z
Old 01-19-12, 07:40 AM
  #19  
pbm317
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Originally Posted by bigaudiofa
Loctite plain and simple. That is actually how the old honda S2000's had their shift ***** put on straight. I know, one hot summer day I was doing a detail job on one, the thing actually did not have enough and became loose.
That's incorrect. Honda S2000's actually had a locknut that worked from under the shift **** that locked it in place. At least with the OEM shift ****.
Old 01-19-12, 07:49 AM
  #20  
jkeifer3
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Originally Posted by ERDoc74


So I've been anxiously awaiting my titanium shift **** from s2carbonworks that a few people have had on here and recieved it today.... It's beautiful and looks great! ....... except one little problem... the "F" logo is "crooked" at the point of maximal tightness. is there a way to remedy this??? or do they just need to send me another one and "hope" that it will be straight next time...?
A shift **** should never need to be tightened down to "maximal tightness". Unless it's a really crappy ****, the internal bushings should make it plenty tight prior to bottoming out. Back it off until it's straight.
Old 01-19-12, 08:10 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by pbm317
That's incorrect. Honda S2000's actually had a locknut that worked from under the shift **** that locked it in place. At least with the OEM shift ****.
Blue Loctite, I learned this as well from my S2000 days. I think bigaudiofa is referring to the voodoo countersunk shift ***** that a lot of S2000 owners bought, they are much like what OP has on his F.

So, blue loctite on this ****.

/thread
Old 01-19-12, 12:04 PM
  #22  
tenspeed
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Originally Posted by Fapout
or you can just use some loctite blue stuff on the shift rod threads and just stop turning at it's last point in the right position. Leave it be for 15 minutes or so and you're done.
Originally Posted by ERDoc74
is this a "PERMANENT" fix? (is it reversable) or is it a glue it on and never get it off solution?
You can use RTV the same way. You might have a harder time removing the **** with threadlock. Even the removable type of Loctite is hard on the smaller bolt sizes.
Old 01-19-12, 12:40 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by tenspeed
You can use RTV the same way. You might have a harder time removing the **** with threadlock. Even the removable type of Loctite is hard on the smaller bolt sizes.
I've never had any problems with it but OP it's your shift ****. You can always use it as a stylish paper weight.
Old 01-19-12, 12:41 PM
  #24  
bigaudiofa
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Originally Posted by pbm317
That's incorrect. Honda S2000's actually had a locknut that worked from under the shift **** that locked it in place. At least with the OEM shift ****.
Than it used both a locknut and loctite because the threads had blue on them when the **** was fully removed.
Old 01-19-12, 12:48 PM
  #25  
lobuxracer
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Originally Posted by tenspeed
You can use RTV the same way. You might have a harder time removing the **** with threadlock. Even the removable type of Loctite is hard on the smaller bolt sizes.
Agreed. Loctite blue (242) isn't especially easy to remove, and for something I would want to continue to look nice like a shift ****, I wouldn't want to use 242, I'd rather shim it with polyethylene. It crushes easily after you get it in place, and you can stack multiple layers if you need more height, and ultimately, it's dead simple to remove without tools to avoid damaging the finish.

You'll be mighty pissed off if you have to get out the vise grips to remove the ball when you want to remove the console...not saying you will, but if you do, you'll be kicking yourself for using Loctite.
Old 01-19-12, 07:38 PM
  #26  
ISF001
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Loctite produces thread lockers and also a superglue. I would not use the super glue in this instance. You may permanently regret it.
Old 01-20-12, 06:47 AM
  #27  
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Like I said, I used blue loctite on a countersunk shifter ball like this one on my S2000, when I had to remove it, I had no issues what so ever came right off with a good hard rotation. Even if you have to use vice grips, just wrap the ball in a towel and you won't damage it.

Cars vibrate and if you don't have the shift **** locked down well, it will vibrate out of position over and over. This thread is entirely way too long for such a simple issue. LOL
Old 01-20-12, 10:25 AM
  #28  
Joe Z
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^^ Exaclty..!!! The cotton ball solved that issue like 2 days ago.. LMFAO....

~ Joe Z

Last edited by Joe Z; 01-20-12 at 10:29 AM.
Old 01-20-12, 10:28 AM
  #29  
flowrider
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Originally Posted by jkeifer3
A shift **** should never need to be tightened down to "maximal tightness". Unless it's a really crappy ****, the internal bushings should make it plenty tight prior to bottoming out. Back it off until it's straight.
This is true I know it's true of the stock **** and also of the F Sport ****, the one I now have.

Lou
Old 01-20-12, 10:39 AM
  #30  
ERDoc74
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Originally Posted by Joe Z
Let's see a pic of the corrected ****...

Joe Z
I'll try to get a good one ASAP!!!

Originally Posted by jkeifer3
A shift **** should never need to be tightened down to "maximal tightness". Unless it's a really crappy ****, the internal bushings should make it plenty tight prior to bottoming out. Back it off until it's straight.
this **** seems high quality, but was "loose" until it was "tight" (and crooked)


Originally Posted by tenspeed
You can use RTV the same way. You might have a harder time removing the **** with threadlock. Even the removable type of Loctite is hard on the smaller bolt sizes.
What's RTV?

Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Agreed. Loctite blue (242) isn't especially easy to remove, and for something I would want to continue to look nice like a shift ****, I wouldn't want to use 242, I'd rather shim it with polyethylene. It crushes easily after you get it in place, and you can stack multiple layers if you need more height, and ultimately, it's dead simple to remove without tools to avoid damaging the finish.

You'll be mighty pissed off if you have to get out the vise grips to remove the ball when you want to remove the console...not saying you will, but if you do, you'll be kicking yourself for using Loctite.
So far the cotton ball fix suggested by Joe Z has worked like a charm... is "tight" straight, and hasn't loosened so far... I'll definitley try the polyethylene method next if it does "loosen" in the future... (before trying the locktite)

Originally Posted by Fapout
This thread is entirely way too long for such a simple issue. LOL
isn't it? LOL


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