smartbomb

We have been working on our IS-F!
http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_artic...-and-pads.aspx

We will be dyno testing some of Sikky's headers soon.

Read more about our Project IS-F here!
http://www.motoiq.com/projects/lexus...lexus_isf.aspx

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Let us know how the zero front toe works out. I just had mine measured after I finally arrested the inside edge wear (and I suspect I was toed in too much as the outer blocks were wearing much faster) and it was set to 0.22" toed in static. While it was on the rack, the tech did a simple simulation - he pushed outward on the front of the front wheels and took out half the toe I had dialed in. Just basic arm strength, nothing too intense. So we agreed to try it at 0.06 on each side - total 0.12 toed in. I have a feeling it will work well and finally get me balanced wear on the front.

I like the Project Mu rotors! Cheaper than OEM or OEM retail?

smartbomb

0.22" is way to much toe in for any conditions. With that much toe in the car will crab around under braking and not turn in well. For track use you want to have something like 1/8" toe out. That will provide better turn in and less rolling resistance as it counters camber thrust.

I just set the toe at zero mostly to reduce tire wear.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I understand that very well. This alignment is for maximum tire life, not best performance at the track. If you look at my thread Reconsidering the factory alignment you'll see I've been empirically trying to find a workable solution to inside edge wear which is unfortunately common with all 2IS chassis. Toed out 3mm static (same as 1/8"), you'll get 1/4" dynamic at the track, especially under hard braking when the rear LCA bushing is incapable of holding a good setting.

My previous setting was zero toe. I got inside edge wear with street driving. I'm toed in ~1/8" now and expecting dynamic toe at zero while street driving. So I'll be interested to see what happens with your settings, especially if your results are similar to mine.

smartbomb

How much camber are you running?

streetx

iTrader: (4)

nice reviews, what do you think of the fsport sway vs the sikky?

and how do i get a set of dais wheels in isf fitment? lol

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Stock. -1.3 on both sides with me in the driver's seat. It was a nice surprise to see the numbers balance when I sat in the car.

smartbomb

The F-Sport bar is like the Sikky in the soft position. However the Sikky has better end links and if you are running a pretty big stagger, it is better to have the option of going stiffer.

I am trying to talk Sikky into making a front bar as well.

smartbomb

I will let you know how well the zero toe -2 camber setup wears tires, so far it looks pretty good after about 2500 miles.

The car sticks like crazy!

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I still want to run a square 285/30/19 or 285/35/18 setup. I bet it would cure the whole understeer issue pretty easily. Track setup has to be 285/30/18 - it's the most economically available setup for track tires, and we know it works for R6's on Enkei PF-01s.

What's your current ride height? Stock -12mm or so? Curious where you get -2.0 for camber. Also curious if you've modeled the suspension yet. I haven't taken the time to do it, but would love to know where optimum ride height is from a camber curve perspective.

smartbomb

Do you think the 285 will fit in front? The car sits about 1.5" lower than stock and the gain in camber is from the lowering.

Since this is not a race car I did not bother to model the suspension like I do for a client. KW's base calibrations are normal pretty good so i just trusted them.

I am probably going to use Fig's upper arm and I am debating if I should use the super pro bushings. I don't want to mess up the NVH too much but it would be interesting to see what this car's potential is.

Superpro bushings usually have pretty good NVH for a urethane bushing.