2010 ISF Aftermarket Sub Install
09-11-12, 08:58 PM
#16
...... really? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Or1Xg4NXRws
The amp is going to be mounted under the rear deck. Here's an example of how i did it on my wifes car. No Cap - just the equipment in the first post.
- Andrew
The amp is going to be mounted under the rear deck. Here's an example of how i did it on my wifes car. No Cap - just the equipment in the first post.
- Andrew
09-11-12, 09:15 PM
#18
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Day 2 - Power Wire & Ground wiring Complete
Ok - this isnt a huge post but it took quite a while to get it right. I'm not one for slapping things together so it probably took longer than it needed to with all the adjustments and getting things just right.
First off - some disassembly :-) removed the door sills and rear seats so I could run the power wire from the battery/fuse. Their is a grommet on the passenger footwell & behind the battery that makes passing the wiring into the engine bay very easy. You will need to pull the battery out to make it look nice though. You might be able to get it through but It was much much easier to pull the battery and then route everything the right way.
Enjoy the pics :-)
AND.... Finished.
I'm hoping to get the box and sub mounted tomorrow evening :-)
- Andrew
First off - some disassembly :-) removed the door sills and rear seats so I could run the power wire from the battery/fuse. Their is a grommet on the passenger footwell & behind the battery that makes passing the wiring into the engine bay very easy. You will need to pull the battery out to make it look nice though. You might be able to get it through but It was much much easier to pull the battery and then route everything the right way.
Enjoy the pics :-)
AND.... Finished.
I'm hoping to get the box and sub mounted tomorrow evening :-)
- Andrew
09-12-12, 11:55 AM
#19
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Hey did you pick up the input signal directly after the amp or from the front L&R door before the speaker? If it is right at the output of the amp. Can you post picture of the color wires for the front L&R speaker please.
09-12-12, 12:00 PM
#20
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Thanks,
Andrew
09-12-12, 08:04 PM
#21
Ok - this isnt a huge post but it took quite a while to get it right. I'm not one for slapping things together so it probably took longer than it needed to with all the adjustments and getting things just right.
First off - some disassembly :-) removed the door sills and rear seats so I could run the power wire from the battery/fuse. Their is a grommet on the passenger footwell & behind the battery that makes passing the wiring into the engine bay very easy. You will need to pull the battery out to make it look nice though. You might be able to get it through but It was much much easier to pull the battery and then route everything the right way.
Enjoy the pics :-)
I'm hoping to get the box and sub mounted tomorrow evening :-)
- Andrew
First off - some disassembly :-) removed the door sills and rear seats so I could run the power wire from the battery/fuse. Their is a grommet on the passenger footwell & behind the battery that makes passing the wiring into the engine bay very easy. You will need to pull the battery out to make it look nice though. You might be able to get it through but It was much much easier to pull the battery and then route everything the right way.
Enjoy the pics :-)
I'm hoping to get the box and sub mounted tomorrow evening :-)
- Andrew
).
09-12-12, 10:03 PM
#22
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Day 3 - Sub box, Amp & LOC mounting
Ok - busy night! I had a friend stop by and he's been giving me a hand, we were able to knock out quite a bit tonight. The sub box is mounted, the sub would be installed but my screws arent long enough (boo). The Sub box is mounted using 3 screws, 2 on the bottom where the trunk net tie downs were ( its a M6 bolt btw - I had the buy a longer one to reach through the box). The 3rd screw uses on the carpet tie downs on the rear of the car (corner - I just used a lag bolt and nut to secure it). The box is very tight and wont be going anywhere :-)
We also got the stand offs for the amp and line out convertor put in. I didn't get the amp or LOC mounted so it may not look like much but this part is a pain in the butt as it involves carefully drilling holes, removing the back deck and removing the stock subwoofer. It's so worth it though - mounting the amp and everything here is awesome (out of the way & hidden).
Tomorrow I should have the equipment all mounted (Amp, Sub, LOC) and depending on time I may start on tapping the signal wires at the factory amp. Now for the good stuff - more pictures!
- Andrew
Stock sub vs the new one
Sub is wired to 1 ohm, as it has dual 2 ohm voice coils - here the wiring diagram.
We also got the stand offs for the amp and line out convertor put in. I didn't get the amp or LOC mounted so it may not look like much but this part is a pain in the butt as it involves carefully drilling holes, removing the back deck and removing the stock subwoofer. It's so worth it though - mounting the amp and everything here is awesome (out of the way & hidden).
Tomorrow I should have the equipment all mounted (Amp, Sub, LOC) and depending on time I may start on tapping the signal wires at the factory amp. Now for the good stuff - more pictures!
- Andrew
Stock sub vs the new one
Sub is wired to 1 ohm, as it has dual 2 ohm voice coils - here the wiring diagram.
Last edited by silverlexg; 09-13-12 at 10:14 AM.
09-13-12, 06:48 AM
#25
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ictures-5.html
I also didn't bolt my enclosed down so it comes out of the car in less then 1 min. Great for track days or putting something big in the trunk. That's just one more think that makes this box great. I wouldn't want to be stuck with it in the trunk while on the track.
09-13-12, 10:12 AM
#26
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Thanks for the heads up on the LOC thread - I downloaded the audio system diagram (for the correct model & year) so I should be all set. I'll be sure to include this when I get to that stage.
09-14-12, 08:47 AM
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Day 4 - not much since I had to work late..
*** UPDATE ***
I moved the speaker tap to the sub channel as I didnt like how the bass sounded off the stock front woofers. I have been happier with how the volume and output sound with that vs the boomy-ness of the front woofer tabs. I'll swap the pictures out with the new tabs going to the sub connections when I get a minute.
Well - I had to work late last night so not much to report. I did manage to get the sub installed (yay for correct length screws). I also tapped the front left/right woofer wires from the stock amp. I put together this graphic to help anyone looking for these wires. I still need to tap a remote turn on at the amp (ran out of time). These 4 wires will be connected to a line out convertor to produce the input to the sub amp.
As a note of caution this is for a 2010 ISF with ML, wire colors and pin placement will likely be different on different model years and non ML models.
Wiring Diagram for 2010 ISF with ML
Here's my soldering into those wires - you can carefully remove the wires from the connector to slip on some heat shrink (release a little clip from the front side of the connector). I put everything back into the loom so its nice and neat, I'll take some pics when its all done.
- Andrew
I moved the speaker tap to the sub channel as I didnt like how the bass sounded off the stock front woofers. I have been happier with how the volume and output sound with that vs the boomy-ness of the front woofer tabs. I'll swap the pictures out with the new tabs going to the sub connections when I get a minute.
Well - I had to work late last night so not much to report. I did manage to get the sub installed (yay for correct length screws). I also tapped the front left/right woofer wires from the stock amp. I put together this graphic to help anyone looking for these wires. I still need to tap a remote turn on at the amp (ran out of time). These 4 wires will be connected to a line out convertor to produce the input to the sub amp.
As a note of caution this is for a 2010 ISF with ML, wire colors and pin placement will likely be different on different model years and non ML models.
Wiring Diagram for 2010 ISF with ML
Here's my soldering into those wires - you can carefully remove the wires from the connector to slip on some heat shrink (release a little clip from the front side of the connector). I put everything back into the loom so its nice and neat, I'll take some pics when its all done.
- Andrew
Last edited by silverlexg; 10-03-12 at 02:30 PM. Reason: ** Updated Wiring Recommendation **
09-16-12, 05:04 PM
#28
jst in case anyone is wondering on the 2010 ML system the ACC wire (or remote turn on for your amp) is the thin white wire (near the blue and pink wires) on the first connector (the one closest to the rear of the car aka the one with no speaker wires coming from it)
09-16-12, 10:45 PM
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Day 4? Sub installed.. Amp Installed...LOC installed... testing :-)
Ok - whew weekend flew by... but I managed to spend a couple of hours on the car. The sub is installed - the amp is installed.. the LOC is installed and I got to test it out today. I'm very pleased with the install - the sub doesnt have enough output for me, and honestly its overpowered (amp is putting out 600RMS underated and the sub is rated for 500). I'm going to replace the sub (already ordered) with an RE SE X 12 - probably not as clean of a sub but will take plenty of abuse and I'm fond of REs (I've had a 12 RE XXX for 8+yrs). Anyway - here's some pics and the diagram of the remote turn on lead. Any questions feel free to ask.
- Andrew
This is the amp turn on lead.
Sub Mounted
Amp Mounted (final mounting location is closer to the top deck)
- Andrew
This is the amp turn on lead.
Sub Mounted
Amp Mounted (final mounting location is closer to the top deck)