silverlexg

I recently went through the same install on my 2010 ISF - same magic box & LOC, different amp and sub though. I originally tapped the factory woofers - lots of posts about doing that but i found it to be very boomy and uncontrollable bass at low volumes. I switched it up and tapped the stock sub channel and have been much happier. There are also posts about people using a cheap Scorche LOC and combining the outputs into 1 - haven't tried that (nor will I) since its electronically a very bad idea. Try out the sand option - you need to pair up the sub and box otherwise the sound quality is going to suffer. I think realistically the best option is using a dedicated summing box like a 6 channel AudioControls or DSP - each is way overkill for someone wanting to add a simple sub onto the factory stereo. I decided that using the stock sub channel was good enough - and I think its plenty for me. Regardless be sure to post up the outcome and let us know what works/doesnt work. Do you have a build thread on your stereo install?

08F

What is the recommended cu ft for the sub you are running? I actually followed a lot of your build thread in doing mine. Thanks for the write up. I do have some pics of the install but I can't seem to get them from my comp to CL without them on a website???

08F

Keep in mind that the trunk is not put back together yet. Everything just staged until final adjustments are made.

JL Remote Bass Control installed. This took quite a bit of modifying to make it fit into the stock slot


Tap the factory sub--Brown + and Green -. The Brown is on top and the green in right underneath.


Tap factory Remote wire. The last orange wire farthest to the rear of the car.


Grounding Amp----I know...I know... I need to sand the paint under the ground


Sub in the Magic Box


600/1v3



Back of the Amp

08F

Here is a better picture of the JL Remote Bass Control installed next to a stock empty slot. Basically, just had to cut both sides off and the Control slid right in. Then just drill a 3/8 hole in the front and slip it through the front.



Also,I had to modify where the slot went back in so that the control would fit. It is slightly wider that the empty face. Just had to cut the sides a little thinner.

08F

Just got done filling my box with sand. Can't think of anything better I'd rather be doing! Anyway, the box held right at 86 pounds of sand. Each bag weighed 50.5 pounds on my scale and I was left with 15 pounds when the box was as full as I could get it. So the advertised "approx 0.9 cu ft" is right on. That 0.9 cu ft is 44% more air space than what JL recommends for this sub in a sealed enclosure (0.625 cu ft).........so I guess I'll be looking at ways to get some wood in there to suck up some air space.

RC5000

Keep in mind a cubic foot of dry sand weighs about 110lbs, which is why folks in the car audio world use styrofoam for a volume this size. The difference in accuracy is <3%.

EDIT: Ah, your post above makes this irrelevant. Glad you got it handled!

silverlexg

Since you are using a shaped sub channel (sub frequencies only) turn off the low pass and filtering on the JL amp. I found adjusting the audio controls input/bass to be important as well - it has a light
That flashes when it's input is clipping - adjust it so it doesn't flash :-)

08F

I had the low pass off before I took the car to the JL installer and I guess he put it back to low pass to hear how it was. It sounds even worse on low pass. A lot of people over a DIY Mobile Audio don't think its the box being too big, they are thinking more electrical/settings. I'm at a crossroads with what I want to do next. My thoughts are:
1)Take the car to another installer who is more familiar with the 10w6 for a second opinion.
2) Try the JL Audio prowedge box that is built specifically for this sub with a 0.68cu ft sealed enclosure
3) Try the Scorche line out converter

08F

So I finally have the system sounding alright. I added 0.2 cu ft of wood to the box to get the box to specs for the sub and have made adjustments on the amp. The biggest difference was turning off the Amp LP filter. Doing these two things have made the sub sound tight and not boomy, but I can only really hear the sub at high volumes now. Under 30-35 volume, I can't really tell its there. What adjustment should be made to increase the volume of the sub but maintain the tight bass or are my expectations with 1 10" sub too much?

silverlexg

I'd recommend you adjust the gain - keep in mind this is not a volume adjustment... its designed to match or pair up the amp input to the source. JL has a process to match up the gain using a multimeter - check page 14/15 of the manual.

http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mf...pdf?1343791743

Not to sugest your installer didnt do that but its often overlooked. Also - I had to play with the Audio Controls LC2i a bit to get it to sound right.

I'd check those 2 items... start with the LC2i, adjust the controls to the default (middle position). Here's what mines set to for reference.

RC5000

OP I have a similar setup: boxology molded box, 12" image dynamics sub, 1kw amp, scoshe output converter, and I think it's fair to say I feel the same way about my sound that you do.

No one would know I added a sub, except on a few certain songs.

The problem is, we only added a single sub, sealed enclosure at that, and in a well damped trunk with steel seperating it from the cabin.

I think you're expecting too much from it.

I've had a system in every vehicle I've ever owned (10+), and have some times spent far less than I did on this system with much greater results. The difference lies in the application.

Another issue that makes this more complicated is that the factory headunit modulates and eq's frequencies that go to the sub varying with volume, because it's output is designed for the factory 8" free-air sub. So there is no getting around this without something expensive like a Rockford 360.

Our trunks are fairly well separated from the cabin and a 10" sub at the back of that trunk especially in a sealed enclosure just can't do any more than slightly supplement what we already have.

I believe the only way to achieve what you desire is more cone area, go ported vs sealed, and add a more refined tunable converter.

You only bumped up from factory 8" to a 10" located further away albeit with more power but fed the same restricted signal as the factory sub.

I spent a g on my setup and was similarly dissappointed, I'm certain now that I could have brought about the same improvement by simply upgrading the factory 8" to a better one.