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Costco batteries are great... you may or may not have to take your own measurements to get the right battery, but the warranty is by far better than any other battery on the market. Let's just say I haven't "paid" for a battery in 12 years.
You've paid for it with 30+ pounds of excess weight for 12 years.
Originally Posted by AntiStupid
I went with a optima red top, had some issues getting the available size adaptors to work properly.
Optima isn't even close to a good value. My Supra ate them up in 24 months because I only drive it on occasion. Never again.
You've paid for it with 30+ pounds of excess weight for 12 years.
OMG... are you serious? A regular battery is what 30 lbs. And a super light weight battery what, 10 lbs.? The fluctuation of a DRIVERS weight can be more than 20 lbs! Im 6'3" 250 lbs...... a driver who's 5'8" 150 lbs already has a hundred pounds weight savings over me. Me Changing to a 10 lb $600 battery and saving 20 lbs aint gonna mean ***** if im already a fat ***! Your statement is perfectly legit if ceteris paribus.
You've paid for it with 30+ pounds of excess weight for 12 years.
Optima isn't even close to a good value. My Supra ate them up in 24 months because I only drive it on occasion. Never again.
Ive put red tops in all of my vehicles, within the first 6months of ownership. Heat/humidity kills batteries down here. And even when one has failed, it was warrantied.
'07 Z and '10 Z each had a single battery for 4 years, tested fine when sold. '03 Sentra used 2 with one being warrantied on year 2, to 2009. '14 Tundra had its factory swapped in 2015 and it tested fine last month during normal checks. Ive done well with these batteries, even though they are not even close to a good value. Maybe your supra had an electrical issue that needed fixin?
OMG... are you serious? A regular battery is what 30 lbs. And a super light weight battery what, 10 lbs.? The fluctuation of a DRIVERS weight can be more than 20 lbs! Im 6'3" 250 lbs...... a driver who's 5'8" 150 lbs already has a hundred pounds weight savings over me. Me Changing to a 10 lb $600 battery and saving 20 lbs aint gonna mean ***** if im already a fat ***! Your statement is perfectly legit if ceteris paribus.
A "regular" battery is 44 lbs. My Antigravity weighed 9.25 lbs. You're right about being a fat man, but if you're a fat man and complaining about losing, you have a mirror to show you the source of your problems. I'm 6'2" and weighed 162 lbs when I raced motorcycles because I knew the guys in my class who weighed 135 lbs soaking wet in leathers and helmet. I didn't buy the battery to win races, I bought it because it saves a bunch of weight AND lasts more than 3x what a lead/acid battery does in my experience.
Originally Posted by AntiStupid
Ive put red tops in all of my vehicles, within the first 6months of ownership. Heat/humidity kills batteries down here. And even when one has failed, it was warrantied.
'07 Z and '10 Z each had a single battery for 4 years, tested fine when sold. '03 Sentra used 2 with one being warrantied on year 2, to 2009. '14 Tundra had its factory swapped in 2015 and it tested fine last month during normal checks. Ive done well with these batteries, even though they are not even close to a good value. Maybe your supra had an electrical issue that needed fixin?
Mike
Not anything wrong with my Supra. It sits a lot. If you drive every day, hot rod batteries are great. If you don't, they die a whole lot quicker than the average joe battery. I learned this a long time ago with motorcycle batteries. When I daily drove my bike I never had battery issues and I bought the hot rod battery of the day (Yuasa CX) because it lasted longer. As soon as the bike got put into occasional use, everything changed. Lead/acid batteries sulfate when they go unused and turn to junk pretty quickly. LiFePo4 batteries do not. Different chemistry, different service life. Got LOTS of t-shirts in my 40 years of electronic systems maintenance and repair. Don't really care what your experience is with daily drivers, it doesn't apply to how my Supra consumes batteries and none of the cars you listed were built in 1993. We can compare notes when your car is more than 25 years old and sits for 2 - 3 months at a time without leaving the garage.
A "regular" battery is 44 lbs. My Antigravity weighed 9.25 lbs. You're right about being a fat man, but if you're a fat man and complaining about losing, you have a mirror to show you the source of your problems. I'm 6'2" and weighed 162 lbs when I raced motorcycles because I knew the guys in my class who weighed 135 lbs soaking wet in leathers and helmet. I didn't buy the battery to win races, I bought it because it saves a bunch of weight AND lasts more than 3x what a lead/acid battery does in my .
while I respect your knowledge and response, I think you are comparing apples to oranges. A car or bike dedicated to the track where every competitive advantage is crucial is very different than a "luxury daily driven street car" that serves 99% of of the people here.
No, I'm complaining about having been on my third lead/acid battery before buying the Antigravity battery in only 11 years. Not to mention the piece of crap I had last cracked at the positive terminal and corroded the snot out of my connection at the terminal forcing me to buy not only a new battery but a new terminal. I'm so done with lead/acid it just ain't funny.
No, I'm complaining about having been on my third lead/acid battery before buying the Antigravity battery in only 11 years. Not to mention the piece of crap I had last cracked at the positive terminal and corroded the snot out of my connection at the terminal forcing me to buy not only a new battery but a new terminal. I'm so done with lead/acid it just ain't funny.
All things considered the factory Panasonic batteries are junk...
My original did only last 3-4 years.. MY08 was built in summer of 08 but sold in April 09. So I'm certain it saw some rough days sitting in dealer storage indoor facility during those first 9 months / 50 miles.
I installed my first Red Top Optima in June 2012 I think.
2.5 years it was replaced under warranty in Nov 14, since for some reason the white AGM material was seeping out the side top cover seam near the negative battery terminal...
At the time based on the condition, I also replaced the entire negative battery terminal..
All went well for a long while, then in Feb 2018 I was parked with car off waiting for a while but didn't realize my parking lights were left on... I killed the battery in the parking lot, but got a jump..
Same week out of an abundance of caution I picked up another brand new red top. Not under warranty but the same distributor I use gave me a deep discount. I had no time in life to deal with a dead battery elsewhere.
Again so far soo good..
Mind you my F is a daily workhorse that gets driven 400 miles a week.
Fast forward to this March 2020 my F is now driven 0 miles per week..!! (work from home)
After getting tired of starting it every few days.. I picked up a battery tender jr. to keep it 100% ready.
Yes it's designed to work with AGM batteries.
I now start the F approx once every 2 weeks to keep the juices flowing elsewhere.
Thats my real world experience!!
FYI - my orm attery bracket has been cut and rewelded for Red Top Optima fitment and I do have the standard spacer that comes with it, underneath it to sit at correct height.
^ Batter tender wire tucks away neatly when not in use.
A "regular" battery is 44 lbs. My Antigravity weighed 9.25 lbs. You're right about being a fat man, but if you're a fat man and complaining about losing, you have a mirror to show you the source of your problems. I'm 6'2" and weighed 162 lbs when I raced motorcycles because I knew the guys in my class who weighed 135 lbs soaking wet in leathers and helmet. I didn't buy the battery to win races, I bought it because it saves a bunch of weight AND lasts more than 3x what a lead/acid battery does in my experience.
Not anything wrong with my Supra. It sits a lot. If you drive every day, hot rod batteries are great. If you don't, they die a whole lot quicker than the average joe battery. I learned this a long time ago with motorcycle batteries. When I daily drove my bike I never had battery issues and I bought the hot rod battery of the day (Yuasa CX) because it lasted longer. As soon as the bike got put into occasional use, everything changed. Lead/acid batteries sulfate when they go unused and turn to junk pretty quickly. LiFePo4 batteries do not. Different chemistry, different service life. Got LOTS of t-shirts in my 40 years of electronic systems maintenance and repair. Don't really care what your experience is with daily drivers, it doesn't apply to how my Supra consumes batteries and none of the cars you listed were built in 1993. We can compare notes when your car is more than 25 years old and sits for 2 - 3 months at a time without leaving the garage.
Cool story, but you made the comment in regards to my application. No need to compare notes, you attempted to apply your experience to my application. I feel even if you double your 40years to electronic systems maintenance and repair, you still will lack experience in basic reading comprehension, so we should just go ahead and move on now.
Cool story, but you made the comment in regards to my application. No need to compare notes, you attempted to apply your experience to my application. I feel even if you double your 40years to electronic systems maintenance and repair, you still will lack experience in basic reading comprehension, so we should just go ahead and move on now.
Nah bruh. Grow a skin. Just relayed my experience. I read and speak 4 languages. Doubt it's an issue with my native tongue.
If any single driver, at any given personal weight, fluctuates 20 pounds on their own regularly, they need to have a health check up because they have a water retention issue.
If you just drive your car, then a regular battery weight of 44 pounds is negligible. If your are truly chasing performance, a lightweight battery is ironically some of the cheapest performance outside of stripping a car. I have spent some pretty substantial money on carbon fiber recaros and Volk TE37s. If you look at the cost of carbon fiber roofs and lightweight brakes, or even my mods, a lightweight battery is a great result when you get down to dollars per pound. It costs a lot of money to lose weight.
Weight loss comes with all sorts of benefits. We just started with a lot of weight in this chassis.
If any single driver, at any given personal weight, fluctuates 20 pounds on their own regularly, they need to have a health check up because they have a water retention issue.
If you just drive your car, then a regular battery weight of 44 pounds is negligible. If your are truly chasing performance, a lightweight battery is ironically some of the cheapest performance outside of stripping a car. I have spent some pretty substantial money on carbon fiber recaros and Volk TE37s. If you look at the cost of carbon fiber roofs and lightweight brakes, or even my mods, a lightweight battery is a great result when you get down to dollars per pound. It costs a lot of money to lose weight.
Weight loss comes with all sorts of benefits. We just started with a lot of weight in this chassis.
nobody was talking about a "single driver" fluctuating 20 lbs... it was a conversation about how different drivers are different weights. But the rest of your post is 100% spot on.
nobody was talking about a "single driver" fluctuating 20 lbs... it was a conversation about how different drivers are different weights. But the rest of your post is 100% spot on.
I was being facetious. Its sort of like saying, well instead of buying headers, I could just have my wife drive my car. It’s a red herring.
We are all gauging the performance of our cars with us driving them, not with the smallest guy possible in it. If I want my car to run the fastest lap possible, I’d rather be driving it. My opponent may be bigger or smaller, but that is not something I can control. My battery weight is something I can control, and no matter what I weigh, my car will be lighter if I buy a lighter battery. Same goes for all other lightweight mods.
I was being facetious. Its sort of like saying, well instead of buying headers, I could just have my wife drive my car. It’s a red herring.
We are all gauging the performance of our cars with us driving them, not with the smallest guy possible in it. If I want my car to run the fastest lap possible, I’d rather be driving it. My opponent may be bigger or smaller, but that is not something I can control. My battery weight is something I can control, and no matter what I weigh, my car will be lighter if I buy a lighter battery. Same goes for all other lightweight mods.
Very well said and very relevant..... if you are part of the 1% of ISF owners who use their car for track purposes. If you are part of the other 99% of owners who daily drive them or use them for a fun sprint on the back roads during the weekends, then spending the extra money and saving 30 lbs probably doesn't matter that much unless you just want bragging rights.
Very well said and very relevant..... if you are part of the 1% of ISF owners who use their car for track purposes. If you are part of the other 99% of owners who daily drive them or use them for a fun sprint on the back roads during the weekends, then spending the extra money and saving 30 lbs probably doesn't matter that much unless you just want bragging rights.
Agreed. I’d love to know the percentage of ISF owners that track their cars. A decent amount on this forum road course or drag strip, but the vast majority of ISFs may not see that much track surface.
09-19-20, 09:37 PM
