And the modding begins...
#31
The biggest interference is actually the rear bumper to fender junction even after you roll everthing this will still hit. We just released our upper link kit to adjust the top in an out though you will be taking quite a bit out and the camber curve will be much steeper. You would probably need toe links as well. or do a combo of more camber via the LCA plus the upper links.
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-- We are your Lexus suspension experts--
BCR - KW - PENSKE - OHLINS - HKS - GREDDY - STANCEPARTS
Links - Arms - SuperPro Poly Bushings - Solid Bearing Conversions - Motor Mounts
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2018 USTCC Sportsman Class Champions - 2018 NASA ST5 National Champions
#33
Thank you Figs and Calitri for the info. That Hyper ISF make me wish I found a white one so much more. Anyway, I found a used set of upper control arms so I'll give that a try. I also went and bought a set of Eastwood fender rollers. Kinda extreme, but i figure that I'd be saving on the labor, and then I can just sell it later for not too much less than what I paid for it, making the cost similar to that of a rental, but without the need to return in within a time period. Too bad no one in the Charleston area does fender rolling. Hopefully this will correct my problem.
#34
#36
tires are 265/30 in the rear, run a bit of camber, correct the toe , roll/.shave rear fender and you are good to go. i would rather run a 255/35/19 though
#37
The fronts are perfect. They make a little noise when I'm in reverse and full left/right, like the tires scraping on the wheel well liner or something. Rears have been the biggest pain in my butt. Right now, I have the fenders trimmed, pulled and wheels cambered in using both the upper and toe links to about 1.5 degrees. I still rub on big bumps or if I have people in the rear. I think i'm gonna have to camber it in another half a degree to see if that works out. Next time I get a car wash, i'll take some pics. If I could go back in time, I would have got the rears in +37 to +45 range. Would have saved me a lot of money and frustration.
My rear tires look all ate up too from the rubbing. The fender literally cut them up. When i get it all dialed in, I'm probably going to swap the left and right rear tires so that the ate up side is inboard so that it's no longer visible and thus won't remind me of this inconvenience. Of note, my rear tires are 275/30/19. Thinner tires would have helped a lot as well.
My rear tires look all ate up too from the rubbing. The fender literally cut them up. When i get it all dialed in, I'm probably going to swap the left and right rear tires so that the ate up side is inboard so that it's no longer visible and thus won't remind me of this inconvenience. Of note, my rear tires are 275/30/19. Thinner tires would have helped a lot as well.
#39
Sorry, I meant 1.5 degrees more than stock (2.2 since stock was 0.7 degrees). You can tell looking from the rear and looking at the dirt on the tire thread that the wheels are // \\. It actually looks similar to hyperisf above, but as much. I think hyperisf is running 265/30/19 too which would make it easier to fit under the fenders.
Another thing that I've noticed is that my wheels are pushed more to the rear when they were cambered in. This makes the tire/fender contact point the junction where the rear bumper meets the rear quarter panel. Since that is closer to the 10 or 11 o'clock position of the rear tires, cambering them in another degree or so will only move the tire in a couple millimeters relative to this contact point. Hopefully that is enough.
Another thing that I've noticed is that my wheels are pushed more to the rear when they were cambered in. This makes the tire/fender contact point the junction where the rear bumper meets the rear quarter panel. Since that is closer to the 10 or 11 o'clock position of the rear tires, cambering them in another degree or so will only move the tire in a couple millimeters relative to this contact point. Hopefully that is enough.
#41
Thanks, will try the 255/35 and maybe 235/35 or 225/35 on front.
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