Drive belt DIY?
#32
Thanks for all the guidance folks. I got around to the install today. I was able to do it all from the top just doing the tensioner blind but knowing where the bolts were located and that they were 6mm hex and 12mm socket made it straightforward.
#33
Replaced the tensioner pulley and belt this weekend, on some ramps I made "from a box of scraps". I was getting a lot of squealing which was getting worse with time. Oddly, it would only squeal when I was driving in manual mode, I'm assuming due to the higher RPM I tend to keep the engine at when driving manual. This has totally fixed the issue. I decided to replace the tensioner pulley and belt at the same time because they're both so cheap from RockAuto, even with the current exchange rate. Typically I tend to stick to OEM parts, but thought I would give the RPM belt from Gates a try. As mentioned previously, RockAuto sells the DAYCO pulley, which is the same as OEM. Quality of the Gates belt seems good, a littler thicker than the OEM, we'll see how it stands up over time. I had tensioner part 16620-0W130 on my car, and the new unit is 16620-0W131. Install was really easy. Bolting up the tensioner unit was a bit finicky with just one person, but not difficult. I did it from underneath the car, but removed the intake tube and half the air box, really just to get more light. Two bolts in total, a 12mm and a 6mm allan head bolt. Also installed some SuperPro sway bar bushings while I was under there.
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#36
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It's listed as an Inspect Drive Belt.. Replace when shows cracks or signs of damage..
If it's dry and shows micro cracks its done.
I think I'm on my 3rd at 180k miles.. I also did the tensioner which got rid of the slippage noise and car pulls much better. Also did the WP and thermo while I was in there.
Based on age or miles.. I would look at it every 60k miles like the plugs or diff fluid..
Or Valve Lash inspection.
The super long life engine coolant, is suggested 100k mile interval. Then every 50k thereafter.
Joe Z
If it's dry and shows micro cracks its done.
I think I'm on my 3rd at 180k miles.. I also did the tensioner which got rid of the slippage noise and car pulls much better. Also did the WP and thermo while I was in there.
Based on age or miles.. I would look at it every 60k miles like the plugs or diff fluid..
Or Valve Lash inspection.
The super long life engine coolant, is suggested 100k mile interval. Then every 50k thereafter.
Joe Z
#37
#38
-R
#39
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Its what the online PDF says...
Drive Belt
Inspect for cracks, excessive wear and oiliness. Check the belt tension and adjust if necessary. Replace the belt if it is damaged.
Engine Air Filter
Check for damage, excessive wear and oiliness. Replace if necessary.
Engine Coolant
When inspecting, visually check the engine coolant level on the see through reservoir. Add coolant as necessary. When replacing, drain and flush the cooling system and refill with coolant. Always use Genuine Toyota Super Long-Life Coolant or similar high-quality non-silicate, non-amine, non-borate, non-nitrate ethylene-glycol coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology (i.e., a combination of low phosphates and organic acids). A qualified technician should perform these operations. Note: Initial replacement is at 120 months/100,000 miles. Replace every 60 months/50,000 miles thereafter.
Originally Posted by Lexus Drivers / IS F Scheduled Maintenance Guide
Drive Belt
Inspect for cracks, excessive wear and oiliness. Check the belt tension and adjust if necessary. Replace the belt if it is damaged.
Engine Air Filter
Check for damage, excessive wear and oiliness. Replace if necessary.
Engine Coolant
When inspecting, visually check the engine coolant level on the see through reservoir. Add coolant as necessary. When replacing, drain and flush the cooling system and refill with coolant. Always use Genuine Toyota Super Long-Life Coolant or similar high-quality non-silicate, non-amine, non-borate, non-nitrate ethylene-glycol coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology (i.e., a combination of low phosphates and organic acids). A qualified technician should perform these operations. Note: Initial replacement is at 120 months/100,000 miles. Replace every 60 months/50,000 miles thereafter.
#40
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Thanks! The SuperPro seem good, i like to think it feels a little more stable/planted in the front, but it could just be wishful thinking. The reason I went we the SuperPros for the front is because I have the TRD (CCS-P) suspension (coilovers and sways) and the front bar is smaller than stock at 24mm. I dont know if you can order the TRD bushings in N.America, since these suspension compnents weren’t available here, so SuperPro it was! The back sway is the same diameter as stock, so I installed new stock rear bushings when I first got it, but now you have me thinking, so maybe Ill make the switch.
-R
-R
I'm trying to put together a SuperPro wish list..
The CCS-P was my favorite..
Joe Z
#42
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@lobuxracer or @FNSSESPORT i can probably dig around..
But what is the stock size in MM for the front & rear oem sway bars ??
Trying to see if SuperPro has a working application in bushings for our cars..
Joe Z
But what is the stock size in MM for the front & rear oem sway bars ??
Trying to see if SuperPro has a working application in bushings for our cars..
Joe Z
#43
@lobuxracer or @FNSSESPORT i can probably dig around..
But what is the stock size in MM for the front & rear oem sway bars ??
But what is the stock size in MM for the front & rear oem sway bars ??
Rear 17mm
Nice little chart on post #3
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...hing-size.html
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Joe Z (05-11-20)
#44
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Front 28.6mm
Rear 17mm
Nice little chart on post #3
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...hing-size.html
How would I cross reference the SuperPro bushing part # for the OEM sizes.. ? I don't see them listed on the SuperPro USA site.
Also if no one asked, where did you find the used TRD parts ??
Joe Z
Last edited by Joe Z; 05-11-20 at 12:28 PM.
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