IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

Drive belt DIY?

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Old 10-18-20, 05:07 AM
  #61  
M4rk
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Coming back to this, my MY14 has been squeaking for a few years now, progressively getting louder. I finally decided to address the issue.

Initially replaced the belt with a Gates RPM (nice belt, thanks to FNSSESPORT). That fix lasted about two weeks. Finally bit the bullet and replaced the tensioner with a Dayco unit off RockAuto; so far so good. My original P/N was already the updated unit, FWIW.
Old 10-18-20, 06:59 AM
  #62  
Joe Z
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^^^ Yes they become a maintenance item after its reached years or miles of service life.

Just like the WP, thermostat, rad, starter, etc

Joe Z
Old 10-18-20, 02:27 PM
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ChpEng
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Originally Posted by M4rk
Coming back to this, my MY14 has been squeaking for a few years now, progressively getting louder. I finally decided to address the issue.

Initially replaced the belt with a Gates RPM (nice belt, thanks to FNSSESPORT). That fix lasted about two weeks. Finally bit the bullet and replaced the tensioner with a Dayco unit off RockAuto; so far so good. My original P/N was already the updated unit, FWIW.
Originally Posted by Joe Z
^^^ Yes they become a maintenance item after its reached years or miles of service life.

Just like the WP, thermostat, rad, starter, etc

Joe Z
So is the key to replace the serpentine belt and tensioner together?
Any advantages to using OEM belt (90916-02632) and tensioner (16620-0W131)? From post #8 it seems there was a rolling production change with the original part number 16620-0W130, but at some point the part number incremented to -0W131.

I am experiencing the screech on WOT-ish upshifts, but only ~50% of the time. Considering pre-emptive replacement because the screech is irritating, but not sure where to stop...water pump, thermostat, radiator, hoses, etc all appear to be originals.
Old 10-18-20, 03:05 PM
  #64  
Joe Z
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Originally Posted by ChpEng
So is the key to replace the serpentine belt and tensioner together?
Any advantages to using OEM belt (90916-02632) and tensioner (16620-0W131)? From post #8 it seems there was a rolling production change with the original part number 16620-0W130, but at some point the part number incremented to -0W131.

I am experiencing the screech on WOT-ish upshifts, but only ~50% of the time. Considering pre-emptive replacement because the screech is irritating, but not sure where to stop...water pump, thermostat, radiator, hoses, etc all appear to be originals.
If the belt is older and the tensioner is original.. It's a quick easy DIY job to replace both.. If you want original OEM parts you know where I go If you want aftermarket then you will be getting the dayco unit and 3rd party belt..

The same OEM belt and tensioner part #s are still used on the 2020 2UR-GSE

90916-02632 belt

16620-0W131 tensioner


Same applies to OEM Thermostat & WP

16031-0S010 Thermo

16100-39506 WP

I redid all my laundry list of OEM parts last summer.. Prompted by my weeping original WP with high mileage. You know where I shop.

Joe Z

Last July with 169k miles...


Original parts out


New OEM parts in

Last edited by Joe Z; 10-18-20 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 08-24-21, 04:19 AM
  #65  
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Hey folks, could anyone please confirm if there is any level of acceptable play in the tensioner pulley? Similar to a bad wheel bearing, I am able to observe approx 1-1.5mm of play when holding it at 6 and 12 o'clock. I can post a video if needed.

I just replaced my tensioner again because of this. The new unit had no play upon install, but just one drive and a few hard shifts later, it behaves the same way again. I am at a loss and beginning to question my own sanity due to the ongoing squeaking belt saga.

Long story short, my high RPM shift squeak returned a day or two after I declared victory. I will share more later on, once I come to a more solid conclusion.
Old 08-24-21, 10:16 AM
  #66  
lobuxracer
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It sounds like a belt alignment issue killing the bearing quickly. No, there should not be that much movement in the pulley.
Old 09-05-21, 06:24 AM
  #67  
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TL;DR: Not always the tensioner + belt. Check your pulleys for contamination, like dirt, oil and rust. Eliminate all variables systematically before throwing parts at the issue.

I believe I have reached a conclusion to my slipping belt saga. I have driven the car at least 5x with multiple shift cycles in an attempt to reproduce the belt slip but she has been nice and quiet. In retrospect, assuming my issue was the same as everyone else's and throwing parts at the issue à la dealership style is something I should not have done. Lesson learned here. I suspect the original belt and tensioner I replaced last year were not the root cause all along.

Symptom: Momentary belt squeak during gear changes at high RPMs, 1->2 and 2->3 shifts. Does not consistently occur w/ A/C on and higher engine loads (uphill). I believe the noise has been there since about when I purchased this car used in 2015 with 28k km on the odometer, but I distinctly recall hearing it during a Lexus track event in 2017 at approx. double the odometer reading.

2020
- New belt tensioner (Dayco)
- New belt (Gates K060810RPM - the expensive one)
Squeak not resolved

2021 (+~2000km)
- New belt tensioner (Dayco - warranty replacement via RockAuto as I found a subjective amount of play in the pulley itself)
Squeak not resolved

- New idler pulley
Squeak not resolved

[This is when I started to actually troubleshoot]


- Discovered corrosion and pitting on half of the scavenging oil pump pulley. I suspect someone washed the engine bay and never dried it off, trapping moisture between the belt and pulley, causing it to rust. I wire-brushed it and sanded it down to get it close to new before shelling out $150 for a new part.
Squeak not resolved

- Cleaned and de-greased remaining drive pulleys. Removed dirt/oily residue from some of the components. Alternator pulley had a minor amount of rust within pulley grooves.
Squeak not resolved

- Washed existing belt with dawn dish soap and warm water.
Squeak not resolved

- Replaced the $80 belt with a $20 Gates K060810.
!!!Squeak resolved!!!

The new belt felt much tighter and perhaps even shorter by a mm or two. This could simply be a factor of it being new. I hypothesize the belt I installed in 2020 was damaged by the rusty oil pump pulley, although I cannot test this hypothesis. Visually, there was no significant difference or apparent damage, although the smooth side had tiny bit more sheen than the new belt (subjectively). Ideally, I need to put 2000km on the new unit to have a more comparable scenario.

In any case, I am over it. If the squeak comes back, I will just live with it at this point. The upside of all this? I can swap the belt and tensioner on an ISF in about 25 minutes now.
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Old 12-02-21, 07:22 AM
  #68  
Arein
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I have squeaking noise sometimes when starting the cold car.

Discovered today that this might have been the reason : https://i.ibb.co/m4cRHzW/img.jpg this is the crankshaft pulley (and harmonic damper). The part that connects to the belt got separated from the body.
Old 12-02-21, 10:55 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Arein
I have squeaking noise sometimes when starting the cold car.

Discovered today that this might have been the reason : https://i.ibb.co/m4cRHzW/img.jpg this is the crankshaft pulley (and harmonic damper). The part that connects to the belt got separated from the body.
this was common on the 2JZs as well as the cars aged, the rubber bonding the pieces together is what helps dampen the vibrations. Since its rubber and is heat cycled it eventually fatigues and breaks
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