Coilover DIY?
#1
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I've searched the forum for some DIYs and found some nice ones with the RSB and headlight swap, among others; but I couldn't find one for a suspension swap. I'm going to be ordering BC coils soon and would like to get a feel for how the install is going to be.
Is there a DIY that I didn't find or can someone put something up?
Is there a DIY that I didn't find or can someone put something up?
#2
Lexus Champion
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There's not many DIYers here on the forums. People who usually have money to buy a car like this aren't very DIY kinda people. I have something that I'll PM you that might help...
#4
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Take all the plastic cladding off the front until you can see the 3 bolts on the strut tower. Also, on the rear, you gotta take the trunk liners off. Take off all the bolts. Jack up the car, take all the wheels off. Take all the bolts and nuts that hold the shocks in place. The bad part is using a prybar to push down the suspension to take off and to put on the shocks. On the front shocks, you have to detach, attach a line. Definitely a two person job and with all the pressure/force you better be sure that the car isn't barely on some wimpy jack stands but a real stable lift. The three bolts aren't 120 degrees apart from each other so you have to figure out the order they go in. When it's all said and done, I'd say spend the 300 bucks and just get it done somewhere. LOL BTW, you don't have to undo the anti-roll bars or any suspension arms/rods. Good luck...
#5
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I've worked on suspensions for years doing installs on various cars and if there's one tip that I have to give out when you try to install any coilover/springs, is that do it from the front to the back.. not side to side.
Lots of people install the suspension from the side because its easier to jack up one side and work on it then jack up the other side. The problem with this is the sway bar puts a load when one end is on the ground and one isn't and it makes it incredibly difficult to get the shock off.
Lots of people install the suspension from the side because its easier to jack up one side and work on it then jack up the other side. The problem with this is the sway bar puts a load when one end is on the ground and one isn't and it makes it incredibly difficult to get the shock off.
#6
Lexus Test Driver
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I've worked on suspensions for years doing installs on various cars and if there's one tip that I have to give out when you try to install any coilover/springs, is that do it from the front to the back.. not side to side.
Lots of people install the suspension from the side because its easier to jack up one side and work on it then jack up the other side. The problem with this is the sway bar puts a load when one end is on the ground and one isn't and it makes it incredibly difficult to get the shock off.
Lots of people install the suspension from the side because its easier to jack up one side and work on it then jack up the other side. The problem with this is the sway bar puts a load when one end is on the ground and one isn't and it makes it incredibly difficult to get the shock off.
#7
Lexus Champion
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I've worked on suspensions for years doing installs on various cars and if there's one tip that I have to give out when you try to install any coilover/springs, is that do it from the front to the back.. not side to side.
Lots of people install the suspension from the side because its easier to jack up one side and work on it then jack up the other side. The problem with this is the sway bar puts a load when one end is on the ground and one isn't and it makes it incredibly difficult to get the shock off.
Lots of people install the suspension from the side because its easier to jack up one side and work on it then jack up the other side. The problem with this is the sway bar puts a load when one end is on the ground and one isn't and it makes it incredibly difficult to get the shock off.
looking at the ISF, it really is going to be the easiest cars you do. if you can do your own oil change, you can do this.
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#8
Racer
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Take all the plastic cladding off the front until you can see the 3 bolts on the strut tower. Also, on the rear, you gotta take the trunk liners off. Take off all the bolts. Jack up the car, take all the wheels off. Take all the bolts and nuts that hold the shocks in place. The bad part is using a prybar to push down the suspension to take off and to put on the shocks. On the front shocks, you have to detach, attach a line. Definitely a two person job and with all the pressure/force you better be sure that the car isn't barely on some wimpy jack stands but a real stable lift. The three bolts aren't 120 degrees apart from each other so you have to figure out the order they go in. When it's all said and done, I'd say spend the 300 bucks and just get it done somewhere. LOL BTW, you don't have to undo the anti-roll bars or any suspension arms/rods. Good luck...
In the rear, I've attached some photos showing the bolt locations below the trunk liner, as well as the main bolts you'll need to remove from the arms. There are two other bolts holding the shock body to the car, just behind the wheel well lining. You may miss them at a glance, but they're there.
I'd agree with Toothdoc, in that it moves much smoother with two people and access to the right tools.
#9
Lexus Test Driver
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Steps to take off the trunk lining and rear suspension look similar to the ISX50 from the pics above. Not sure how far off the front is but heres a DIY for the x50's:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...our-isx50.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...our-isx50.html
#10
Pole Position
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I havent seen a DIY for the ISF, but im guessing it should be quite similar to the 2IS. Here are the two tutorials I followed when i did my car:
http://www.isfanatics.com/forums/sho...d.php?p=641101
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...-installation/
http://www.isfanatics.com/forums/sho...d.php?p=641101
http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...-installation/
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stylistic (04-08-19)
#11
Tech Info Resource
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Hack mechanics, every one of them. If you fail to loosen the bushing bolts and reset the bushings to the new neutral setting, you're just a flat rate mechanic trying to cut corners.
IT IS IMPERATIVE you loosen the bushings and reset them for the new neutral position. Why do guys say "it took two weeks for my suspension to 'settle in'"? Because the guys doing the work didn't loosen the bolts on the bushings, preload the suspension properly, and retighten the bolts with the bushings at their new neutral settings.
WHY IS THIS IMPORTANT? Because failing to do this means your bushing are getting hammered 24x7x365 and they'll be crap in short order - EVEN IF YOU DON'T DRIVE THE CAR.
Any instructions saying "You'll need to push hard on the LCA to get the shock in/out" means they're idiots and have no understanding of what they're doing beyond "we need to get this installed in the shortest time possible."
LEXUS says in the Field Service Manual:
Why does the factory service manual tell you to go to all this trouble? TO BE SURE THE BUSHING IS NOT UNDER CONSTANT STRESS WITH THE CAR AT NORMAL RIDE HEIGHT.
The number of shops missing this critical point is staggering. I would never return to a shop where they failed to recognize the importance of this step because it clearly indicates they are not doing quality work, only collecting money from people who don't know the difference.
IT IS IMPERATIVE you loosen the bushings and reset them for the new neutral position. Why do guys say "it took two weeks for my suspension to 'settle in'"? Because the guys doing the work didn't loosen the bolts on the bushings, preload the suspension properly, and retighten the bolts with the bushings at their new neutral settings.
WHY IS THIS IMPORTANT? Because failing to do this means your bushing are getting hammered 24x7x365 and they'll be crap in short order - EVEN IF YOU DON'T DRIVE THE CAR.
Any instructions saying "You'll need to push hard on the LCA to get the shock in/out" means they're idiots and have no understanding of what they're doing beyond "we need to get this installed in the shortest time possible."
LEXUS says in the Field Service Manual:
9. STABILIZE SUSPENSION
(a) Install the front wheel.
Torque: 103 N·m {1050 kgf·cm, 76ft·lbf}
(b) Lower the vehicle and bounce it up and down several times to stabilize the front suspension. Raise the vehicle.
(c) Remove the front wheel.
(d) Jack up the front lower suspension arm placing a wooden block in between. Apply a load to the front suspension so that the front lower suspension arm is placed in a horizontal position.
10. FULLY TIGHTEN FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER WITH COIL SPRING
(a) Fully tighten the bolt on the lower side of the front shock absorber while holding the nut.
Torque:
157 N·m {1601 kgf·cm, 116ft·lbf}
(a) Install the front wheel.
Torque: 103 N·m {1050 kgf·cm, 76ft·lbf}
(b) Lower the vehicle and bounce it up and down several times to stabilize the front suspension. Raise the vehicle.
(c) Remove the front wheel.
(d) Jack up the front lower suspension arm placing a wooden block in between. Apply a load to the front suspension so that the front lower suspension arm is placed in a horizontal position.
10. FULLY TIGHTEN FRONT SHOCK ABSORBER WITH COIL SPRING
(a) Fully tighten the bolt on the lower side of the front shock absorber while holding the nut.
Torque:
157 N·m {1601 kgf·cm, 116ft·lbf}
The number of shops missing this critical point is staggering. I would never return to a shop where they failed to recognize the importance of this step because it clearly indicates they are not doing quality work, only collecting money from people who don't know the difference.
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stylistic (04-08-19)
#12
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Thanks for the help everyone. I'm still on the fence about doing it myself but I feel a little better about taking on the task now.
edgeucated - The second link you posted is great, especially since it gives a list of required sockets/wrenches. I just hope it will be identical to the F.
edgeucated - The second link you posted is great, especially since it gives a list of required sockets/wrenches. I just hope it will be identical to the F.
#13
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well since lobuxracer wants to be butt and dont want to reply to my Pm to explain better what he was talking about up top , can someone explain it a bit better for me.
i want to install my coilovers but i always skipped the step above like everyone else and if this will mess up a bushing life sooner, i want to do it right.
i want to install my coilovers but i always skipped the step above like everyone else and if this will mess up a bushing life sooner, i want to do it right.
#14
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well since lobuxracer wants to be butt and dont want to reply to my Pm to explain better what he was talking about up top , can someone explain it a bit better for me.
i want to install my coilovers but i always skipped the step above like everyone else and if this will mess up a bushing life sooner, i want to do it right.
i want to install my coilovers but i always skipped the step above like everyone else and if this will mess up a bushing life sooner, i want to do it right.
Search must be broken. This is even a sticky... Sorry I do have expectations for stuff this easy to find that people will try first and understand that I can't be online all the time.
Last edited by DaveGS4; 03-27-13 at 08:12 AM. Reason: Fix link and wording
#15
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So I went to the shop that I usually go to last night to make an appointment for this Saturday and I felt like I was at a dealer or something. First off, everyone in this shop knows me because I've had multiple suspension installs (and other work) done on my previous two cars there and I have never had a single problem with the work or with the people. I get in there and there's a new guy sitting at the front desk; I think nothing of it and proceed to ask to setup an appt for Saturday. First thing the guy says, "Oh we can't do a job like that on a Saturday." All I said in response was "...what?" So he says that replacing all four corners of a suspension is at least a 6 hour job. I literally laughed out loud when he said this and I don't think he liked that. I explained that for this car and new suspension it is literally just taking off some bolts, taking the old strut/spring assembly out, and putting the new one in (and I mentioned what lobuxracer talked about) and that was it. Simple.
So then asks me what type of car it is... "08 Lexus IS-F" I say. He responds, "IS-F??? Never heard of it." WOW. He looks up what the "computer says for time" and says "Oh no, I was wrong. It's a 6.5 hour job." This is when I get upset. I tell him I've had multiple installs done here and have always had them done on a Saturday because I work during the week and I don't like leaving my car, and they have all been done in less than 3.5 hours (AND these installs required swapping out the top hats, which obviously is more time). I told him to stop jerking me around because I actually do know what I am talking about. I asked him if the owners were around because they know me and all he said was "Nope." So I just walked out.
Needless to say I am doing the install myself!!
I'm actually pretty excited about it. Hopefully I don't **** it up.
So then asks me what type of car it is... "08 Lexus IS-F" I say. He responds, "IS-F??? Never heard of it." WOW. He looks up what the "computer says for time" and says "Oh no, I was wrong. It's a 6.5 hour job." This is when I get upset. I tell him I've had multiple installs done here and have always had them done on a Saturday because I work during the week and I don't like leaving my car, and they have all been done in less than 3.5 hours (AND these installs required swapping out the top hats, which obviously is more time). I told him to stop jerking me around because I actually do know what I am talking about. I asked him if the owners were around because they know me and all he said was "Nope." So I just walked out.
Needless to say I am doing the install myself!!
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