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From the post this one was what the OP went with too. This looks perfect for what I want.
Do you remember who you ordered from?
Did you have hiccups with the install?
thx!
Originally Posted by av8or
I use Thule Raceway Pro 2..
I use this one now. I hate the fussiness of it to set up especially threading the bike through it and dealing with the front tire
thx anyways man
Shipped to the door. You won't find the IS F listed as an application, but it fits. Just be sure the exhaust doesn't hit the hitch. Install isn't easy, but it isn't hard either.
I have had this on the car since 2012, and even been rear ended lightly in the rack when I had my Saris Thelma on the car. The Kuat is a vastly better unit. I bought it on a "site-wide" 20% off weekend from Competitive Cyclist.
I use Thule Raceway Pro 2. This thing is a beast and not cheap looking. It is very sturdy and uses cables to secure it to your trunk. Very clean when installed. As an extra precaution, I do tie down one of the bike pedals to one of the racks vertical support post so I can still drive fast 😀. This rack also has an integrated cable lock that locks your top tube to the rack.
Not sure about the harness. That's a maybe. The mount itself, no worries at all. If it fits a 350, it will fit the F.
Thanks,
Gosh, this is proving to be more challenging than I thought, neither of those two part numbers are in stock and the manufacture has to direct ship when it is available.
Ask: Is their anyone out their that has a used one for sale?
The harness is also a challenge, can anyone tell me how to do it old school, meaning connect the red whire from my tail lights directly to the purple whire in the uHaul trailer etc. etc.
So I ended buying "one" of the recommended hitches and learned a few things.
1. Curt Model #11372 fits (just a minor issue)
1.a. "do not" remove the gas pump "black cover"
1.b. because it was 20/20 hind sight, I had to cut a few pieces off of mine (minor issue)
2. uHaul #14486 Converter, 3 to 2 wir, 4-Flat
2.a. My old Toyota Corolla wire harness converter worked like a charm (no Issues)
2.b. break light works, blinkers work, normal lights worked
2.c. don't have picture but super easy to figure out if you trace from rear light connector (yeah you gotta undo the black electrical tape to trace)
2.d. the right side (passenger) wire is red as well
3. I did not need to jack up my car
4. Gosh it is super easy to remove the rear bumper
Steps:
1. Procure Hitch-Kit (hitch, receiver and ball)
2. remove rear bumper (see video for four screws on each side)
2.a. super super easy
2.b. three screws in the same vicinity near the rear wheel and one screw in the trunk (has a 1" x 1" cover)
2.c. THE REAR BUMP SENSORS ARE HELD WITH TWO CLIPS, PUT PRESSURE IN THE RIGHT PLACE TO SMOOTHLY PULL THEM OUT "IF" NEED BE, but you can just set the bump aside with out having to remove the sensors
2.d. The sensor harness starts from the left, so so so the right side can be pulled first as there is no wire harness on the right side (passenger side)
3. disconnect rubber bushing from exhaust
3.a. since I didn't use a jack, I left the exhaust rest on the ground (if you jack your car up, make sure you have something to hold the exhaust)
4. cut aluminum shield, I only cut right at the "right angle" vs. an entire piece. I cut till at, right after the nudge (wish I had taken a picture, sorry)
5. "don't" remove the black gas pump cover, no need, it will be simply be a tight fit
5.a. if you feel you need to cut the gas pump cover of where the hitch hits, well all I can say is that I did cut mine but that was only cuz I had already bolted the hitch and didn't want to remove it to put the gas pump cover on first. Yeah I had taken if off way before I realized I didn't need to
hahahahah if you want to try to remove the exhaust rubbers without removing the bumper hahahaha good luck....
I didn't cut anything and I didn't remove the bumper when I did mine. I bent the shielding out of the way, and I had no issues working around the exhaust still attached at the back. I didn't drop it at the back, I dropped it at the joint with the two bolts and allowed it to hang on the rear mounts. I was on jackstands at the time and working alone. If you drop the mufflers, you'll really want help getting them back in if you don't want to remove the bumper cover.
I removed the entire rear exhaust when I put the OS Giken spool in my diff. Getting the mufflers off wasn't too hard. Getting them back on was a bit more challenging, but I've always sprayed soapy water around the rods to help the rubber slide off and on. Works a charm.
@ISF4life Hey brother i currently have another thule rack for my old gs350 and for some reason the body panel gaps on my 2012 ISF do not let me fit the support hooks into the gaps. The hooks seem to be too thick. Have you had this problem with other set ups for your ISF?
I have Curt hitches on 2 other cars just for bike racks, but on a search on etrailer where I bought them I don’t see a unit for the ISF. Lobux, are u saying the 2IS Curt model will work?
nevermind , reading down I see that you all found that a 2IS hitch works!
Nice video VtotheJ
Thanks again Lance (Lobuxracer) for the tips/advice, I really appreciate the words of wisdom
Updates:
Purchased a Curt Class 1 Hitch Receiver 1.25" from Autoanything.com for $118 shipped.
Purchased a Saris Freedom bike rack from craigslist for $100 (retails for $230).
Went to my exhaust shop and had them install the Hitch receiver.
I installed the Saris Freedom bike rack to the hitch. Bike fits perfectly with ease
Sadly, I had to remove the S4Play diffuser. I may sell it down the road
What do ya'll think? The hitch is pretty stealth when the bike rack isn't in place
03-27-20, 11:58 AM
