Sikky headers - "Left Turn Rattle" club
#1
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Car rubs on left turns and vibration when stop and in gear. Any ideas?
I don't have the stock manifold since the 1st ower install sikky headers. I would like to put this car back to stock. Please message me if you are selling your stock manifold.
I don't have the stock manifold since the 1st ower install sikky headers. I would like to put this car back to stock. Please message me if you are selling your stock manifold.
Last edited by caymandive; 10-22-13 at 02:02 PM.
#2
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hey guys, Me and my buddies just installed the headers last night and my traction control light/check engine light were on and also there is a rattle down by my feet when i turn right or hit a bump. not sure what it is. there was also a (check headlight power system warning)?? it only turned on at night. this morning the i woke up turned her on and just the traction control light went on when i drove a few hundred yards.
*****ANY ADVISE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED******
*****ANY ADVISE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED******
#4
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So apparently there are a few of us that are experiencing the same issue with these headers. As I stated in the other comparison thread, I'm having mine looked at on Monday by a recommended shop here in Austin that deals with high-end sport cars. He's worked on a few ISFs and is familiar with some of our issues.
My service guy at Lexus said it's a bolt from the heatshield that rubs on the header, but won't touch it b/c the headers are aftermarket. Ashton, the guy at Elite Motorsports, basically confirmed what the Lexus guy said, and said it's likely due to the motor mount shifting due to torque and it's touching that bolt. We're going to rack it on Monday and take a look. Hopefully it's just a loose bolt and an easy fix. I'll update this on Monday once we've looked at it.
Has anyone else with this issue had other experiences or received different information? Anyone have advice about fixing the issue?
TIA!
Jim
My service guy at Lexus said it's a bolt from the heatshield that rubs on the header, but won't touch it b/c the headers are aftermarket. Ashton, the guy at Elite Motorsports, basically confirmed what the Lexus guy said, and said it's likely due to the motor mount shifting due to torque and it's touching that bolt. We're going to rack it on Monday and take a look. Hopefully it's just a loose bolt and an easy fix. I'll update this on Monday once we've looked at it.
Has anyone else with this issue had other experiences or received different information? Anyone have advice about fixing the issue?
TIA!
Jim
Last edited by melbitoast; 10-21-13 at 10:36 AM.
#6
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in the same boat and hope you find a solution.
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#8
Lexus Test Driver
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I am part of this unfortunate club. I worked with my service advisor and the mechanic to diagnose this malady. I will tell you that, Mel, that their findings are exactly the same as yours. This bolt problem is why we have this rattle. But my dealership is working with me on how to solve this. I just do not have the time to return there.
#9
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Well my F already had the Sikky headers on there when I bought it, so I'm really handcuffed by that. One of my best friends has PPEs on his and he swears by them. He did a ton of research before purchasing headers, so I believe I would have purchased PPEs as well, given the chance.
#10
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I had this left turn rattle when I first had my headers installed in conjunction with the JoeZ exhaust. The sourse was the JoeZ exhaust was making contact at with the ends of the black brace identified in the picture below. Most of the contact was on the passenger side hence the left turn rattle. Anyway I grinded the ends of the brace back and the noise never came back. For some reason I believe the SIKKY headers force the rest of the exhaust to sit back slightly more than where it would normally sit which is why the clearance issue occurred.
![](http://i123.photobucket.com/albums/o304/caymandiver75/Misc/IS-F/rubbinglocation_zpse8d9a1fd.jpg)
#11
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^^^
Thanks for the input. Unfortunately, what Eric and I discovered yesterday was that my exhaust is NOT a full Joe-Z :-( but rather some custom job. Rather than the cats being right after the flanges and before the O2 sensors, they were welding back on after some giant custom mid-pipes were added. So the order is O2 sensor, mid-pipe, cat. Eric thinks there may be resonators installed as well b/c the system is LOUD. Apparently getting back to a stock air box and Joe-Z intake (or stock) would help with reducing some drone, but I'm not sure given the revelation regarding the exhaust. We'll find out at some point.
The left turn rattle is pretty bad. Should I be considered about driving the vehicle before taking it Ashton on Monday?
Thanks for the input. Unfortunately, what Eric and I discovered yesterday was that my exhaust is NOT a full Joe-Z :-( but rather some custom job. Rather than the cats being right after the flanges and before the O2 sensors, they were welding back on after some giant custom mid-pipes were added. So the order is O2 sensor, mid-pipe, cat. Eric thinks there may be resonators installed as well b/c the system is LOUD. Apparently getting back to a stock air box and Joe-Z intake (or stock) would help with reducing some drone, but I'm not sure given the revelation regarding the exhaust. We'll find out at some point.
The left turn rattle is pretty bad. Should I be considered about driving the vehicle before taking it Ashton on Monday?
#12
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Update time:
So, the left turn rattle is the result of Sikky's design. The 2nd runner was built too far out and rubs on the actual body of the car when the engine torques. If you look at the 2 runners from above, you can see the 2nd one looks like it clears by about a 1/8 to 1/4". However, when you actually step on the accelerator to move, the engine shift causes the header to touch the car. This explains why I also hear the sound at certain acceleration rates and not just while turning left. Basically, it sounds like Sikky forgot to account for the torque movement. Otherwise, the design is fine aside from the cheap coating put on there. I'll try and get a pic after work and post it.
Bad news - the rubbing is causing the paint to chip off and will eventually cause a bad rusting problem on the body (first) and eventually damage the header. It will take some time for a serious problem, but I can already see very minor rusting. So, the sooner you fix it, the better, and it's still safe to drive right now.
Good news - it's an easy fix. Because of the hardness/firmness/density/whatever of the header, the issue can be fixed by simply "denting" in the body at the spot where the header touches the body with a pry bar using the header as the lever point. The area is probably the size of a dime or nickel. The header needs about a 1/4" of extra clearance. It will not damage or dent the header in anyway, and it will not require the removal of anything. Ashton said he can probably have it done in an hour ($100).
So, I'd say I'm happy with the diagnosis and treatment. We're scheduled for next Monday around lunchtime, so I'll update again once everything is done.
So, the left turn rattle is the result of Sikky's design. The 2nd runner was built too far out and rubs on the actual body of the car when the engine torques. If you look at the 2 runners from above, you can see the 2nd one looks like it clears by about a 1/8 to 1/4". However, when you actually step on the accelerator to move, the engine shift causes the header to touch the car. This explains why I also hear the sound at certain acceleration rates and not just while turning left. Basically, it sounds like Sikky forgot to account for the torque movement. Otherwise, the design is fine aside from the cheap coating put on there. I'll try and get a pic after work and post it.
Bad news - the rubbing is causing the paint to chip off and will eventually cause a bad rusting problem on the body (first) and eventually damage the header. It will take some time for a serious problem, but I can already see very minor rusting. So, the sooner you fix it, the better, and it's still safe to drive right now.
Good news - it's an easy fix. Because of the hardness/firmness/density/whatever of the header, the issue can be fixed by simply "denting" in the body at the spot where the header touches the body with a pry bar using the header as the lever point. The area is probably the size of a dime or nickel. The header needs about a 1/4" of extra clearance. It will not damage or dent the header in anyway, and it will not require the removal of anything. Ashton said he can probably have it done in an hour ($100).
So, I'd say I'm happy with the diagnosis and treatment. We're scheduled for next Monday around lunchtime, so I'll update again once everything is done.
Last edited by melbitoast; 10-21-13 at 10:36 AM.
#15
Lexus Test Driver
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"Massaging"? LOL, sure. Let me just "softly massage" this steel/sheet metal/whatever it is because it's soft like a human. Any chance Sikky is willing to pay for my massage?
I'll take a pic when I get home. I leave work in about 30 mins and should be home ~4:45 central.
I'll take a pic when I get home. I leave work in about 30 mins and should be home ~4:45 central.
I think our headers are part of an early batch that had a design or manufacturing flaw. But we still have to hear from Vegas if his replacement works.
This is not an installation problem for sure.