recommended camber and toe settings?
#1
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im dropped 2.5 inch front, about 2 inches rear.
My current specs on my alignment is 2.7 front left. 2.6 front right | toe is .18 front left .16 front right
1.4 rear left 1.7 rear right | toe is .10 rear left .10 rear right
i was thinking 1.5 on front wheels and 1.2 on rear wheels for camber. and toe set close to .1 as possible via camber arms coming in the mail next week.
recommended for a good feel front and backf. it doesnt feel bad right now, but im afraid of tire wear. also i can get it corner balanced for about 600 bucks all around, not sure if its worth it.
My current specs on my alignment is 2.7 front left. 2.6 front right | toe is .18 front left .16 front right
1.4 rear left 1.7 rear right | toe is .10 rear left .10 rear right
i was thinking 1.5 on front wheels and 1.2 on rear wheels for camber. and toe set close to .1 as possible via camber arms coming in the mail next week.
recommended for a good feel front and backf. it doesnt feel bad right now, but im afraid of tire wear. also i can get it corner balanced for about 600 bucks all around, not sure if its worth it.
#3
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This is what I use as a guide to camber for my cars.
Toe wise for a street car, I keep it as close to zero all the way around.
1. There is camber gain built into the (stock) suspension. As the car rolls the camber increases.
2. A given tire likes to run at certain angle to teh pavement i.e. camber. This angle is always changing based on the road angle and suspension (camber gain) geometry.
Given 1 and 2 above, it follows:
3. If you just dropped ride-height, you have increased static camber and camber gain, so the car will take less camber.
4. If you increased the roll stiffness of the car, it will roll less and produce less camber gain and will need more camber. (Dropping the car increases roll stiffness slightly due to lower CG).
5. Rear tires require less camber, since they just want to stay flat on the road.
6. Wider tires require less camber, since it will unevently distribute pressure on the tire i.e. drive inner edge in.
2. A given tire likes to run at certain angle to teh pavement i.e. camber. This angle is always changing based on the road angle and suspension (camber gain) geometry.
Given 1 and 2 above, it follows:
3. If you just dropped ride-height, you have increased static camber and camber gain, so the car will take less camber.
4. If you increased the roll stiffness of the car, it will roll less and produce less camber gain and will need more camber. (Dropping the car increases roll stiffness slightly due to lower CG).
5. Rear tires require less camber, since they just want to stay flat on the road.
6. Wider tires require less camber, since it will unevently distribute pressure on the tire i.e. drive inner edge in.
#4
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With that said, if you have stiff coilovers I would keep it at at least -2 all the way around because the car does not increase that much camber as you turn. If you're on stock suspension or a soft suspension that rolls a lot I would keep the camber at around -1.
and BTW this is not a drag setup lol.
Mine's at -3 all the way around because of my wheel/tire set up but the car drives just fine
and BTW this is not a drag setup lol.
Mine's at -3 all the way around because of my wheel/tire set up but the car drives just fine
#6
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What are you looking to achieve? Mechanical performance or visual performance? That has more to do with it than anything. If you're just concerned about tire life, there's really not much you're going to be able to do with the limited adjustments available, and even with aftermarket pieces, you're still going to run into hard limits when you drop the ride height that much.
#7
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What are you looking to achieve? Mechanical performance or visual performance? That has more to do with it than anything. If you're just concerned about tire life, there's really not much you're going to be able to do with the limited adjustments available, and even with aftermarket pieces, you're still going to run into hard limits when you drop the ride height that much.
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#9
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There is only so much you can do for feel. What does not feel good? With the ride height that low, a lot of things are not in a happy state from a suspension perspective, so it's going to feel very different from stock. Understanding what you are looking for will help a lot.
If you want generic camber recommendations, somewhere between -1.0 and -1.5 on all four corners will give you good grip and will not contribute to camber related wear issues. Your toe settings will be the most critical element of getting good tire life.
If you want generic camber recommendations, somewhere between -1.0 and -1.5 on all four corners will give you good grip and will not contribute to camber related wear issues. Your toe settings will be the most critical element of getting good tire life.
#10
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There is only so much you can do for feel. What does not feel good? With the ride height that low, a lot of things are not in a happy state from a suspension perspective, so it's going to feel very different from stock. Understanding what you are looking for will help a lot.
If you want generic camber recommendations, somewhere between -1.0 and -1.5 on all four corners will give you good grip and will not contribute to camber related wear issues. Your toe settings will be the most critical element of getting good tire life.
If you want generic camber recommendations, somewhere between -1.0 and -1.5 on all four corners will give you good grip and will not contribute to camber related wear issues. Your toe settings will be the most critical element of getting good tire life.
#11
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Just remember, you want a little toe in at the back and zero toe on the front. Any toe out and you'll have inside edge wear for sure. The stock spec for rear toe works well for stock widths. If you're running wider than stock, set closer to the minimum spec than to the standard spec as the wider tire won't like as much toe from a service life perspective.
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